Saw purchase help

Raven27

Raven27

Participating member
Location
Pittsfield, Ma
So my partner is looking to kick in a anew saw. ( I've put in a lot of work for gear and saw deals so he wants to contribute too) we split everything ekse, but ge knows I've done a lot in my own too.
Anyways he wants to buy either a 660, or a 395XP. I don't know if we need that much right now. We want to be able to use a 36" bar, maybe bigger, buy but do we have to go that big of a saw to get that? My old 460mag, took a 32" fine. I read on another post about other Huskys and Stihls that may be in between. If hrs got the money to spend, what not save done on the saw. And use rest for gear, or save it.
Lastly, if hes set on one of those 2, which is best bet. The husky is a couple hundred more, and heavier, yet only a hair more HP, and I was told, no auto oiler. Thanks for thoughts, I'll pass them on. He hates getting on a computer so I'll never get him an account on here. Lol
 
The 460 is the heaviest saw that I would tolerate hangin' on my saddle. A 440/441 will handle a 36" bar also, although I wouldn't push that combo hard all day. Husky v.r.s Stihl? ..... I'm a Stihl fan by far, although Huskys are no joke either. Another option is Dolmar. @JeffGu can give you more advice on those. They are also a German saw.
 
If climbing with the saw a 372xp is sufficient. It will also run a 36" bar if you would like. For several years it was may large saw. Mostly had a 24" bar so that it was used but on occasion the 36" would go on. Only recently did I purchase a 395xp. Beast is an understatement, and climbing with it... I would rather not think about it. If you dont cut 4 ft plus diameter stuff all the time go with the mailer shorter saw your pocketbook and body will thank you.
 
One thing to mention as well, is its not always the size of the saw but how you use it. A 36" bar is a HUGE bar. That can efficiently cut a 72" tree. That is a really large tree that your probably not going to run into everyday. Yes it is nice to have, but so isn't a crane. Yet how many companies own one? Trees can still be removed with out them. Just like a tree can be cut down with a smaller saw, that your budget can handle right now. If you can't get your jobs done because you don't have a 36" bar that is when it is time to buy one. IMO you can get by with a smaller powerhead and a bar in the 24-28" range.
My climber off the crane climbs with a 16" bar on a husky 550. He cuts most all of the tree with that saw and then switches out when he needs a 20". Very rarely do we need anything bigger than 20" when climbing. Remember, a 20" bar can cut a 40" tree. That too is a big tree:)
 
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ROYCE said:
One thing to mention as well, is its not always the size of the saw but how you use it. A 36" bar is a HUGE bar. That can efficiently cut a 72" tree. That is a really large tree that your probably not going to run into everyday. Yes it is nice to have, but so isn't a crane. Yet how many companies own one? Trees can still be removed with out them. Just like a tree can be cut down with a smaller saw, that your budget can handle right now. If you can't get your jobs done because you don't have a 36" bar that is when it is time to buy one. IMO you can get by with a smaller powerhead and a bar in the 24-28" range.
My climber off the crane climbs with a 16" bar on a husky 550. He cuts most all of the tree with that saw and then switches out when he needs a 20". Very rarely do we need anything nigger than 20" when climbing. Remember, a 20" bar can cut a 40" tree. That too is a big tree:)
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Prof read @ROYCE!
 
Yeah. I'm trying to talk him away from.the 660, he's pretty hyped on it, plus I've heard they need to be ported to run good. The 372xp was one I just read up on late last night that sounded pretty good as well, certainly a money saver too. I'll just push to him that a lot of more experienced tree folks have said it's just overkill, and I don't want that big azz saw hanging off me when it's needed.
 
Just a couple of thoughts:

1. Which brand has the better mechanic available for you? For years I went with Husky simply because the dealer and mechanic were both reputable stand-up guys who stood behind their product and work.

2. How often do you need a 36 inch bar? If it's even once a month I would recommend going ahead with the purchase. Sure, you can "get by" with a smaller power head, but there's nothing like having the right tool for the job.

I have used both of those saws extensively. In my experience the Husky would have a slight edge in performance and maintenance. However, a property tuned 660 coming out would not be a disappointment(y).
 
Royce and Flyingsquirrel bring up good points with climbing and bar length. Most of my was done with an 036 and 24" bar in bigger spar work. Power to weight ratio was excellent. That saw has been re-labeled as a MS362.
 
395 is too much for climbing with, plain and simple. The 661 is fantastic but I still don't want to use it much in the tree. Husky 390 is a hair lighter than a 66 and is a better all around saw then the 395 unless you are milling or running longer than 36" bars often.

I get the most use out of a 70 to 75 cc saw. 24 or 28" bar. Not fun to climb with but not too bad. Great for felling most of our decent sized trees. They are a few hundred cheaper new and you will get alot more use out of it. A 461 or 576xp will pull and oil a 32" bar just fine as well. That's what I would go for first, bigger saw later.
I have a 394 and the boss has a 661 and they both spend alot more time sitting at home than on the truck. His 440 and my 576xp live on the truck and get regular use.
 
When money is tight and you're operating on a shoestring, as is often the case when starting a new business venture, try to make sure you're wringing the most use out of the equipment you've already got, before acquiring new gear. With saws, make sure you're well practiced and comfortable with all the techniques necessary to maximize the effectiveness and efficiency of the ones you've already paid for. It would suck to buy a shiny new saw, only to sit and look at it during a winter lull in business, or to have a vehicle suddenly need a substantial repair, and not have the funds to cover it.
 
Jackjcc said:
You want a 660. The 395 has a front adjusting chain tensioner. That's the worst feature to ever be on chainsaws.


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How did we ever survive the last 50 or 60 years or so... With front adjustable chains! And before chainsaws the poor bastards used axes and manualy operated saws. I have seen more wanna be's put a saw together incorrectly with a side adjuster than I ever did with the front adjuster all because they want that adjuster on top and flip the saw over.
 
We run a couple 660's, stock except for the screen being removed. I don't climb with them much. That being said, I've never had a moment of disappointment with either one. We run one with a 24"bar and one with a 36". Plenty of power for either bar. Eats wood like crazy with the 24". I think a 440 would be sufficient but it would just have to work a little harder.
 
Go with a 660/661. I run all stilhls doing tree work and all husky at the wood pile. For years I climbed with a 3120 with 36" bar doing the trunks on tulips threw out Westchester county. For me I want the power, I'm not gonna waste money on ms250's etc, were tree workers not florists You need to determine what species of trees your cutting mostly to the saw you buy. You can run bigger bar on smaller power head in soft woods. Ex 460 with 32" bar. That combo cutting hard sugar maple n hickory will not last long. I have 2 460's with 28" bars we use mainly on soft woods. It's better to have more power for the bar then less power n demand more bar.
 
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A lot if great info, some I hadn't thought about. After we finish up this weekends jobs, well sit and figure what we want to do. Today's job needed a big saw, it really sucked to try and use the smaller one to take the guts old oak stump.shorter for him. It had an odd, large shape, we got it, but it was work and extra time.
 
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