Rope Runner Problems

[monkeylove]

Arlo have you tried that yet? My initial thoughts would be that it is going to add friction on the ascent.

 

[Dave Rohach]

That's exactly what it does! I tried this over a year ago, and it (the RR) wants to turn it 60-80*'s from center. Just doesn't work, like it's supposed to. Good idea though!


Dave6390 in WI

 

[ARLO]

That's exactly what it does! I tried this over a year ago, and it (the RR) wants to turn it 60-80*'s from center. Just doesn't work, like it's supposed to. Good idea though!


Dave6390 in WI

I have not had that problem at all, and as far as I can see this method does not add any more friction than any of the other methods I have tried, including advancing the RR with a chest roller and with a couple of different types of eye to eye tethers. When I use the RR, I am using it with a rope walker system to ascend (foot ascender and SAKA), and am using a bungie tether or a lanyard over my shoulder to advance the RR. When I do this the rope is held taut by the lower ascenders, and the RR rides straight up the line with no tendency to go off center. So, yes, I have tried it, and I did not encounter any of the problems that you suggest. I will give it a real workout tomorrow and see if I can make it misbehave.

 

[Steve Connally]

Dave what do you use?

 

[Dave Rohach]

I run a hydra/rook on an adjustable rope bridge with a DMM Rock "O" to RR or BDB, flat shoulder strap tied into back of TreeMotion Saddle, I attach the Multiscender to a twist Clevis directly to BDB D ring or to a small prussik loop for the RR. I've been building a specific tether for the RR. Here's a pic, should finish it tomorrow morning
This will attach to an Orca Biner w/ captive wire to Rook.


Dave6390 in WI

 

[MikePowers321]

If you have access to a drill press, this spot works amazing.

 

[Dave Rohach]

It works really great for me, with a SAKA & CT Foot Ascender. So when I raise my arms to pull the rope towards my chest, to stay vertical, the shoulder straps do a perfect job of keeping everything aligned. With virtually no friction on the ascent. I ran a piece of #10AWG solid copper in the RR tender, so I can keep proper spacing on the Orca. I'll occasionally use an Ascentree to keep vertical, but not really necessary for life support!


Dave6390 in WI

 

[Dave Rohach]

That is slick as Snot, Mike! Very Clever!


Dave6390 in WI

 

[Richard Mumford-yoyoman]

If you have access to a drill press, this spot works amazing.

That is a nice spot. For those of use tending rope walkers from the swivel pulley or bridge it may cause some drag so in this case rope walkers should probably be attached apart from the rope runner. i.e. belt buckle, chest harness etc.

 

[Dave Rohach]

My SAKA is attached to my shoulder strap Clevis. This removes all friction from my RE & BDB. Keeps everything aligned also.


Dave6390 in WI

 

[ARLO]

I made a bunch of trips up the rope with the loop tethered around the center of the biner and I did not encounter any problems with the RR tracking straight up the rope. It definitely has a bit of friction, but I did not see much difference in friction with the eye & eye tether. But I really like the looks of Mike's solution!

 

[arborlicious]

If you have access to a drill press, this spot works amazing.

View attachment 34787

Hey Mike, I found your old post by accident. Also the one where you mention using a #40 drill to make the hole on the friction plate.

Anyway, are you still using a Rope Runner with the above mentioned tending point?

I've been using mine for several years with the Singing Tree Quickie to provide the tending point but I like your idea and want to give a go.

Steve

 

[MikePowers321]

Hey Mike, I found your old post by accident. Also the one where you mention using a #40 drill to make the hole on the friction plate.

Anyway, are you still using a Rope Runner with the above mentioned tending point?

I've been using mine for several years with the Singing Tree Quickie to provide the tending point but I like your idea and want to give a go.

Steve

Yup still using the same tending point, no problems and very smooth - gotta make sure you drill perfect on first shot

 

[arborlicious]

Thanks Mike. I figured it needed to be pretty accurate especially since the friction plate on my Rope Runner also has a nice rope groove.

Took it to my local machinist this morning...just in the nick of time as he is finally retiring–at 75–and some of his shop equipment had already be removed but not the old Herbert drill press. He used a 2.5mm drill (a fraction larger than #40) to suit some 2.2mm New England Dynaglide throwline. I've just made a simple loop to start with but may put on some heat shrink if it interferes with the beak.

Picture below with both tending points ready for action so can make some in tree comparisons.

Steve

 

[Quintanana]

Slick tending point you guys.

Steve, that friction plate is a well worn beaute.

 

[arborlicious]

Slick tending point you guys.

Steve, that friction plate is a well worn beaute.

Here are the old friction axles. RR was starting to slip a bit especially on 11.2mm static rope.

 

[Quintanana]

What rope were you on?

 

[arborlicious]

What rope were you on?

I mostly run the following through the rope runner. All without adjusting the upper axle from the fully open position.

11.2mm BlueWater Assultline
11.7mm Donahys Cougar Blue
11.7mm Teufelberger Xstatic
12.0mm Donahys NRG

 

[Quintanana]

Surprised the runner held on 11.2 wide open! Id like to try some Cougar one day.

Keep those bollards and make some art put of em

 

[arborlicious]

Surprised the runner held on 11.2 wide open! Id like to try some Cougar one day.

Keep those bollards and make some art put of em

If I use a new piece of 11.2mm it does slip in the RR. The trick is to use the new rope with a Rope Wrench and prusik for a while to help fluff it up.

Art work or I could use them as expanders in my ear lobes...no thanks