retrieving my Pulleysaver

Waldo

Waldo

Participating member
Location
Portland, OR
I have had my pulleysaver for about two years now, and it is getting difficult to retrieve. I have to spend about 2-3 min 'persuading' it to come down. anybody else having trouble with theirs?
 
I used to always get mine stuck. I added an ART double snapper to it and retrieval is much easier now. Once in a while I will set it up and come down in a bad spot and it will fight a bit but since the double snapper I have never gone back up after it.
 
I keep it loose and try not cinch it around unions and always have a direct unabated path from the ground to it. I Dont remember the last time I got it stuck, but im sure I will get it stuck tomorrow.
 
Crazy jimmy is right.

Setting it loose is the easy option, most try and set it like its a fixed fast and scared to know how it works loose.

Try it - its much better.

Plus you could, if long enough, put it around 2 stems/anchor points.
 
How about on conifers? I've had to go back up for it several times in the last few weeks on tall fir prunes-my thinking is that the friction of the rope on rope of the soft eye combined with the rough bark of the stem is insurmountable.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Jon
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have had my pulleysaver for about two years now, and it is getting difficult to retrieve. I have to spend about 2-3 min 'persuading' it to come down. anybody else having trouble with theirs?

[/ QUOTE ]

What aspect of retrieval is getting difficult? Is the pulley not popping out of the rigid eye or is the rigid eye passing through unions becoming more difficult?
 
Pulley isn't popping out of the eye. Always set mine loose. I also live in the land of tall Doug firs and often leave my saver on the ground for those climbs.
 
I tried to pull it out with a 3:1 last week, and I just stripped the retrieval ball and landed on my arse in a ditch.
Ring-and-ring always comes out, so I've taken the pinto off the pulley saver and use it as the adjustable smaller ring on the ring-ring friction saver. Still very smooth, although not as smooth as the pulley saver, but less hitch binding as well. Seems like a good solution for fir prunes at least.
Anybody with the large stainless ring in place of the soft eye having more luck on retrieval?
Thanks
Jon
 
I had tons of trouble with mine and got so sick of looking like an a$$ going back up the tree to get it after it locked itself up that I stopped using it and switched to the fimblesaver, which is awesome. Not to mention that the small amount of friction added to the system eliminates my hitch from binding up on descent. If you like the sling config. of the pulleysaver, but wanna climb on rings tie a secret weapon on in place of the pulley. I found that passed thru the eye better.
 
Duck saver rules !

But to be honoust haven't used the duck saver setup in years and happy with my pulleysaver. It's just the way you install it in the top that will make it loose easy or get stuck.

Keep it as long as possible and keep your rope management straight, will give you all the best for pulley action and retrieval :-)
 
A few months ago I switched the standard prussic cord on the ps with 8mm hrc and made the prussic loop that holds the pinto longer. I wasn't intending to make the retrieval easier...but it seemed to.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I tried to pull it out with a 3:1 last week, and I just stripped the retrieval ball and landed on my arse in a ditch.
Ring-and-ring always comes out, so I've taken the pinto off the pulley saver and use it as the adjustable smaller ring on the ring-ring friction saver. Still very smooth, although not as smooth as the pulley saver, but less hitch binding as well. Seems like a good solution for fir prunes at least.
Anybody with the large stainless ring in place of the soft eye having more luck on retrieval?
Thanks
Jon

[/ QUOTE ]

Jon I spliced up a version of the pulley saver with the pen safe ring from treestuff. It seems to retrieve more consistently as long as it's not choked on a small stem. It always seems to be a pain in that configuration. Other than that it works well.

I use both set ups regularly and a fimbl saver. If I am climbing a large tree with little up and down movement I run the fimblsaver as I know it will always come down and the pulley is not really needed. If I'm going up and down a lot I use my pulley saver and double snapper. On removals or if I will be switching tie ins a lot while in the tree I use my spliced version if I need the pulley efficiency as it retrieves reliably without a double snapper.
 
Pulleysaver or rope guide type friction savers are great for climbing on in our big conifers but definitely a risk when it comes to retrieval. What I often do on Douglas firs is rappel to the lowest limb that would still be easy to climb back to the top from, pull the friction saver, reset it and then rappel to the ground and pull it again.
 
Interesting comments, I always wonder why so much Arbos buy a Pulley Saver nontheless?! Maybe someone can enlighten me...

You guys know that the updated version will have a Pinto instead the bigger Pinto RIG? Should help on retrieval a bit I guess...
 
I never really have problems with them nor do my 3 employees. Theres just basic rules to follow when using them and then you should be golden.
 
So, these should be the golden rules, right? :)

A pulley saver like the Teufelberger can easily be homemade.
When buying one I'd go for the ART Rope Guide, its merely more expensive and far more developed I think.
Maybe the price difference is much bigger in the USA.

I use none of them, just to make that clear! ;)
No advertising or bashing ment, I am just interested in people's thoughts.
 
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