request feedback on rigging device design and build

Eduard

Eduard

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Location
Brisbane
I am building a rigging device and I'd like to know what exactly you look for in a tool of this type.
The device will have a yacht winch for lifting and probably a small bollard above the winch for dynamic rigging (negative rigging/blocking down).

The idea is that the device be smaller, lighter and cheaper than other devices such as the smart winch, grcs and hobbs. Of course there will be a trade off. Less lifting power and possibly a lesser working load limit.

I would like to make a more affordable device that isn't too heavy or hard to set up, that the everyday arborist will use, everyday.

I'm starting this thread for any interested parties to chip in with some feedback, ideas, requests, or to just have a look.
686faeb2a7f4f28968743498390076e1.jpg


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Fairleads for sure.

Self tailing is really nice

Two straps on the device. While the heavier models get away with one truckers strap I have found that the lighter duty straps don't get as tight and cause movement. To keep the unit light I don't think you could go to a truckers strap without introducing the possibly of bending and damaging the unit or making it heavy and expensive.

I like the bollard over the top but I don't know how you plan on feeding the line around it and into the winch. Anything other than a small bollard will rub I would imagine, but it might all fit once you work out the design.
 
Looks good! I agree that it'll likely need two heavy duty ratchet straps unless you can get them tighter than I can.

I've been wanting to build a smaller one as well but the problem I've been running into with the smaller sized winches (15 to 20 something power ratio range) is that their max rope diameter listed is often only 3/8"
 
great feedback guys. I have been wondering if 2 ratchet straps would be too much set up. I had a personal preference for 2 straps for security, but it's also important to me to that set up be both fast and easy.

3/8" is too small for sure!
What rope diameters do you normally use for your average job?

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tc262 said:
What are you doing on the back side of the plate where it sits against the tree?
My plan was to weld a piece of bar stock down each side.
Click to expand...
I'm instigating various types of rubber mounts. It's super important that it not damage the tree for pruning and situations where the device is mounted to a different tree than the one being removed.

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Eduard said:
great feedback guys. I have been wondering if 2 ratchet straps would be too much set up. I had a personal preference for 2 straps for security, but it's also important to me to that set up be both fast and easy.

3/8" is too small for sure!
What rope diameters do you normally use for your average job?

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Click to expand...
1/2" or 9/16ths 90% of the time
 
I like this whole concept. Having a lighter portable Harkens winch for quick and easy deployment on smaller work duties. Is that an aluminum plate? If so I agree with tc on adding some bar stock to resist flexing. You may want to add some 1/2'' rubber belting to the back as well. Good for jobs where a full removal is not in order.
 
I was thinking of covering the bar stock with a slit air hose when I make mine, but now that Colb mentions it, rope would work much better and be very tree friendly. I forgot all about it but this made me recall his grcs mod.
 
Ditto on 1/2 and 9/19 most of the time.

Perhaps the Harken and negative rigging bollard could be independent of one another. I would mostly want this for the features of light, easier set up, and tensioning/lifting with smaller lines. Negative rigging I would have set up the Hobbs and used bigger rope.
 
I haven't really had occasion to lift something and then immediately dump it into a dynamic situation, I am usually lifting to avoid dynamic rigging. Have you considered trying to set something up that would work in conjunction with a portawrap? Perhaps the portie mounted to it, or with a long throat on the portie sling.

I also thought of @augusthunicke 's video from a while back, where Samurai Joe set up a giant base-mounted rigging wrench. That would have no drag while lifting, though not adjustable, obvi.

I use 3/8", 9/16", 5/8", and once in a blue moon 3/4", but 1/2" is king. 9/16" would be a nice option, though.

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any fairlead for lowering? you will want to avoid crossing situation. My fairlead broke and it required to look at the crds constantly while lowering or it could cross over and cause a hairy situation. I sent it back to greg and he fixed it asap.
 
tc262 said:
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/grcs.33805/page-2#post-492320

I think I'd have the rope vertical instead of horizontal, but it would require something to keep the rope in and not let it roll out.
Click to expand...

I always tuck it at the very top, so if the grcs gets pulled upwards it will still be in good position. I'm sure there's a better way to formally stick a rope there, but it works every time... 3/4" multiline II. My rubber dots on the top peeled off immediately and repeatedly, and the screws holding them came in contact with the tree. I'm not a fan of that design feature, but love the grcs overall.
 
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