I've winched popped tops against their lean and caught/ran them dynamically in a portawrap. It works out better with two lines/ devices than if they were on one line/one device because the winch line is high (more leverage) and the butt catching line is low (less dynamic loading).
request feedback on rigging device design and build
- Thread starter Eduard
- Start date
I've winched popped tops against their lean and caught/ran them dynamically in a portawrap. It works out better with two lines/ devices than if they were on one line/one device because the winch line is high (more leverage) and the butt catching line is low (less dynamic loading).
I have fairleads on the prototype pictured in my original post which I'd like to use, if they do well in testing.
The main function of the fairlead is to provide an approximately 8° angle of rope entry on to the winch drum to prevent overlap. Beyond that, they aren't meant to be load bearing. I saw a video where Greg Good explained this and demonstrated bending the fairleads on his device. I think generally if the primary rigging pulley isn't directly above the device then another, -load bearing- pulley or ring needs to be installed to provide a straight rope angle into the fairlead.
I assume this hold true for most devices.
I know the smart winch features a rope clutch above the winch and bollard, and I'm fairly sure that it would rip right off if loaded heavily.
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There are some distinct advantages of having a bollard and a winch together. There's some cool tricks which I'm sure I'll demonstrate in some promotional videos in due time!
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I'm not quite sure what you mean mate.
The winch does "ratchet" in a sense...
Which device do you normally use? There are a couple of devices which have a simple 1:1 ratcheting drum, are you used to one of those?
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tc262
Branched out member
- Location
- SE Wisconsin
Kevin (treebing) was talking about fairleads for the side of the rope leaving the device that the groundie would hold.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
If you could mount the bollard above and to the side of the winch, you might be able to fairlead the winch rope on one side, arbitraily let's say the left, and fairlead the lowering bollard rope on the right side. One standing end fairlead for the exiting winch rope, another exiting fairlead for the bollard.
tc262
Branched out member
- Location
- SE Wisconsin
Yep
One of my grcs fairleads got bent when a log came down on top of it. Whether lowered or flying, I don't remember the details... Not sure if you can protect against this...
um. probably not a whole lot I can do about that haha
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evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
@Eduard you on to it mate! If it were me I'd aim for a fixed bollard above the harkin and just to the left. You could have your lowering line pretensioned by a short length of line with the harkin (not unlike the Stein). Also this could allow two independent operations buy using two independent lines. You could also make mounting plates not unlike the GRCS, but have the bollard fixed all the time and have a spot to slip the harkin. A second mounting plate could be purchased for just the harkin.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Here is a shitty drawing, but I think you'll get it
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I was playing around my GRCS the other day, was thinking of the same thing... A smaller bollard, that could be slipped up on the mounting bracket with the winch below.
I'm pretty set on having the bollard and the winch both fixed on at the same time. What happens is you ask the ground person to switch something on the device but they couldn't be bothered, so you end up doing something else to avoid an argument. My core-concept is that the work becomes easier because once you mount my device to the tree, you can do anything you want without having to go get any other parts or make any changes.
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tc262
Branched out member
- Location
- SE Wisconsin
Yeah I see no reason to have a separate bollard from the winch bollard. I'd drop pieces on the winch drum all day and not think twice. Lightweight is one of the goals. Throw the port a wrap on or a fixed bollard friction device on when it's time to switch up to 5/8 rope.
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
Well if we are getting into crude a$$ drawings, figured I would add mine.
Green is the harken obviously. But mount the porti above tilted out and folded back in the middle. I can be used for negative rigging, but more importantly is can be the fair lead into the winch allowing for duel purpose.
Green is the harken obviously. But mount the porti above tilted out and folded back in the middle. I can be used for negative rigging, but more importantly is can be the fair lead into the winch allowing for duel purpose.
