Quick Block attachment knot

Very clever!

Did you come up with the configuration or learn it from someone?

When ever I tie a slipped version of a knot/hitch I always add the half hitch lock on the slipped bite like you do. It locks everything and has never turned into a Knife Knot no matter what cordage was used or the load applied.
 
To me fair build for a 1D pull away from host,
But I always like Round Turn base on host for a more availability 2D support structure against a 2D pull. Not trying to lessen that in efforts here, but in my own mechanical logic, this is what I see, and where would point ....
.
2D to me pull meaning a 1D lengthwise along host for Load pull that traces back to another 1D pull across host, 90 degrees from lengthwise pull to secure. The 90 legs make this 2D Loading. Should have 2D framework of possible support then. For me that means at least 3arcs opposing / Round Turn base.
.
Would look to seat against expected Load pull DIRECTION on any taper or deformation could. And make small notch on OPPOSING side of host to bed rope (where final nip shown in pic) into to try to mitigate lack of 2D rope structure. Really would do so with 2D rope support structure.
.
To me 1D support structure against a 2D Load is a maybe-baby. But 2D against 2D more of a COMMANDING structure in any materials on any day. Rope simply no different.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
Very clever!

Did you come up with the configuration or learn it from someone?

When ever I tie a slipped version of a knot/hitch I always add the half hitch lock on the slipped bite like you do. It locks everything and has never turned into a Knife Knot no matter what cordage was used or the load applied.
Click to expand...
Yes, I did figure it out on my own, but that doesn't mean someone else hasn't figured it out simultaneously. When I first started using it, my ground guy was a little freaked out about how quickly I could pull it apart. Had to demonstrate that it wasn't just a half hitch holding everything together.
 
TheTreeSpyder said:
To me fair build for a 1D pull away from host,
But I always like Round Turn base on host for a more availability 2D support structure against a 2D pull. Not trying to lessen that in efforts here, but in my own mechanical logic, this is what I see, and where would point ....
.
2D to me pull meaning a 1D lengthwise along host for Load pull that traces back to another 1D pull across host, 90 degrees from lengthwise pull to secure. The 90 legs make this 2D Loading. Should have 2D framework of possible support then. For me that means at least 3arcs opposing / Round Turn base.
.
Would look to seat against expected Load pull DIRECTION on any taper or deformation could. And make small notch on OPPOSING side of host to bed rope (where final nip shown in pic) into to try to mitigate lack of 2D rope structure. Really would do so with 2D rope support structure.
.
To me 1D support structure against a 2D Load is a maybe-baby. But 2D against 2D more of a COMMANDING structure in any materials on any day. Rope simply no different.
Click to expand...
It's going to take me a while to digest this Mr. Spider. Always have learned a lot from you.
 
A bite thru the dead eye, followed by a half hitch and then a few tucks to clean the tail up? The block goes into the bite? I like it. Thank you
 
Not to derail the beard conversation, but I forgot to mention that on smaller diameter trunks I finish off the tail differently. Instead of the two tucks shown in the drawing, I pass the tail around the trunk one more time and then give one tuck on the back side of the trunk. It's just slightly more difficult to untie.
 
In my mind removing the block is more inconvenient than opening a cow hitch and pulling the block+tail back through the bight.

Will have to give this one a try though, might be really slick for a ring sling
 
SeanRuel said:
In my mind removing the block is more inconvenient than opening a cow hitch and pulling the block+tail back through the bight.

Will have to give this one a try though, might be really slick for a ring sling
Click to expand...
I used to use a cow hitch for attaching a block until I discovered this knot. It sped up production for me anyways. Plus after passing the bight through the dead eye, you can cinch it nicely. I use a large pear biner to attach the block to my harness when I'm not using it.
 
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If my GooglEye'd translation of Spydey's comment is right, I think he's looking for something more like a Wrap-2-Pull-1 sort of friction-gripping structure against the tree. But this would necessarily lower the block, enlarging the peak impact force of the drop.
My concern is how much abrasion comes on the spliced eye, the loaded bight pulling through it --I started writing something about an "initial drop" (doing setting of the half-hitched side of the load bight) then realized, no, ALL of your drops are initial (after tying) : tie, drop, then reset the structure lower for next. Well, you can tell us what the spliced eye's skin looks like after such usage.

> why the bike helmet?

I'm thinking that it's a "floatation device", as the guy seems to be otherwise unsupported in his tying; must be a tight chin strap.

Thanks,
*kN*
 
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