Question MRS DdRT vs. SRS SRT

Richard Mumford-yoyoman

Richard Mumford-yoyoman

Been here a while
Location
Atlanta GA
I would like to compile a list of differences that climbers understand between MRS DdRT and SRS SRT and if you are brave, a rope that is doubled over but not moving.
Not a test and there is no one correct answer or prize. (Well ok, the 17th real response, (you are lucky I didn't pick my age for that number), will get a free Footie from Climbing Innovations LLC)

Thanks
 
The ratios I'll use are theoretical and don't account for friction or climber's bounce while ascending.

MRS DdRT 2:

SRS SRT-choked at TIP 1:1

SRS-SRT-base tie 2:1

Doubled rope-ascended as a paired/single rope system 1:1

In reality we all know that the loads/efficiency varies into decimal points not whole numbers

BTW..I don't need another Footie either
 
Generally you can use ropes that are MRS friendly for SRS but using SRS-specific ropes(static lines, those with parallel core, etc) for MRS is a no-no. This creates a situation where sometimes the best rope choice for a given climbing situation may be a bad choice for another. It also shows how ropes like Yale 11.7 lines truly shine as Jack-of-all-Trades lines in that they do both very well, and if you climb both styles and can only afford one rope, they are the way to go.
 
As for the difference. In SRT the friction manipulating device sees consistent friction regardless of TIP or redirects.

In MRS the friction varies with the TIP, branch diameter, crotch tightness, bark texture or friction saver all change friction device behavior. Also any redirect greatly effects the friction device, requiring engaging the device/ hitch more to release
 
Njdelaney said:
Generally you can use ropes that are MRS friendly for SRS but using SRS-specific ropes(static lines, those with parallel core, etc) for MRS is a no-no. This creates a situation where sometimes the best rope choice for a given climbing situation may be a bad choice for another. It also shows how ropes like Yale 11.7 lines truly shine as Jack-of-all-Trades lines in that they do both very well, and if you climb both styles and can only afford one rope, they are the way to go.
Click to expand...
I hear this frequently, but I don't understand why. I own some specific SRT ropes and still use them MRS/DdRT..
 
The main difference between the two climbing techniques is SRT opens the door to more variables this can be used to the advantage or disadvantage of the climber. DdRT redirects are a real thing, but nowhere near the near limitless options of SRT. SRT is inherently more complicated and requires the use of more 'parts' of the system. Yes I know that one can be a minimalist SRT climber, but the benefits of SRT are lost with each climbing aid. Of course there is a balance and a over complicated SRT system then becomes disadvantageous.
 
I would love to see a side by side list of rope tricks, and "gadgets" for the two different techniques. Perhaps with a chronology. There really aren't that many for Ddrt, compared to SRT..
 
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