Question about lock stitching on tenex

[Sprucinator]

Hey! So I just made my first rigging ring sling with 1/2 tenex. I'm curious if there are certain requirements of thread/ twine that needs to used for a proper lock stitch (like size, construction, etc...). I have waxed whipping twine that I use for doing whip locks but it looks a little too small for lock stitching on tenex? I would have preferred to just use a strand of tenex that I cut out but none were long enough. I can't really seem to find any info online. What do you guys think?

 

[AdkEric]

You could double up the whipping twine.

 

[Matias]

I use a doubled piece of no. 8 Marlow whipping twine, and do a Yale whiplock. I like the look, and it seems more durable without covering it with tape or shrink tube. I like the old school look of untaped whipping.

 

[Matias]

I have also used some paracord for a standard lock stitch, following Samsons instructions.

 

[Njdelaney]

You can use throwline too.

 

[Muggs]

Yeah I just use old throwline

 

[Matias]

I have seen concerns expressed about using such a super static material for lockstitching, though, I too have used old throw line to do lockstitch a couple of tenex based tools.

 

[Sprucinator]

thanks for the ideas and responses. My question though is if what I used is sufficient for a proper "lock stitch" or why it will still work or not work

 

[Matias]

Aha! I missed that in the picture and thought it was a hypothetical question. That should be just fine. The point is to keep the splice from backing out when not under load. I am betting that in an extreme loading situation, beyond what you should do with 1/2" Tenex, it might cut some strands, and possible have it fail lower than it otherwise would, but I don't have anything to base that on.

 

[Sprucinator]

Aha! I missed that in the picture and thought it was a hypothetical question. That should be just fine. The point is to keep the splice from backing out when not under load. I am betting that in an extreme loading situation, beyond what you should do with 1/2" Tenex, it might cut some strands, and possible have it fail lower than it otherwise would, but I don't have anything to base that on.

thanks that's kind of what I figured. I'm debating whether I should try and take it out or not. Btw is there a trick to keeping the eye around the ring tight when milking the bury down? I tried holding by passing an awl through both sides just under the ring which helped but I'm wondering if there's a better trick to it

 

[Matias]

thanks that's kind of what I figured. I'm debating whether I should try and take it out or not. Btw is there a trick to keeping the eye around the ring tight when milking the bury down? I tried holding by passing an awl through both sides just under the ring which helped but I'm wondering if there's a better trick to it.

If you're dead set on a straight bury, I find that pinching the "outer part" to the ring while milking it does best for me, but I have switched to always using brummels now, for that specific reason.

 

[Sprucinator]

If you're dead set on a straight bury, I find that pinching the "outer part" to the ring while milking it does best for me, but I have switched to always using brummels now, for that specific reason.

ya that makes sense thanks!

 

[evo]

I typically use one of the carrier strands. I’ve used throwline, contractor string, boot laces, and paracord (whole or cover only).
Tenex is one of the only ropes I’m hyper religious about lock stitching all the time.

 

[Matias]

I typically use one of the carrier strands. I’ve used throwline, contractor string, boot laces, and paracord (whole or cover only).
Tenex is one of the only ropes I’m hyper religious about lock stitching all the time.

Yea, that rope construction loves to unbury itself when it gets tossed around.