Question about deploying a Munter Hitch with my DEDA Lanyard...

[Zebco Kid]

Hello All,

I watched a video where the presenter deployed a Munter Hitch on one end of his long lanyard so he could position himself further from a tie in point. The presenter wrapped one end of the lanyard around a limb, then connected the carabiner with a Munter hitch on the standing part of the rope. He stated that this allowed for proper loading of the carabiner (avoiding cross-loading).

I'm curious whether this is a good use of the Munter Hitch. In all other tutorials that I've seen, I see it being used for rapelling (moving rope), and not static.

I guess the real underlying question is, would you use this as a life safety configuration if the other end was an appropriate hitch/pulley setup connected to your harness.

As I write this, I also realize that it creates an SRT situation without a rope wrench or other device to reduce the load on the hitch.

I hope that makes sense. If not...here is the video that provided the idea.

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[Acerxharlowii]

That’s funny I was just doing a rec climb the other day and we were discussing this technique. Also could be done using a clove hitch or a alpine butterfly(however, more rope is needed). Good technique when u do t have a prusssik on your lanyard

 

[Dan Cobb]

I have snap hooks on one end of my lanyards, so I wouldn't be trying to replicate exactly what's shown in the video. A few random thoughts the technique from someone who doesn't use a DEDA lanyard:
> If it's not primary life support, possibly loading the carabiner in a way that's not directly along the long axis should be less of a concern.
> The munter needs to be set so it doesn't inadvertently end up on the carabiner gate. That might be worse than loading the carabiner off axis.
> Since the limb is not being securely choked, the loop seems more prone to dropping or slipping down the limb.
> The munter seems unlikely to move when rigged as shown in the video.
> The same thing can be accomplished in other ways. Tie a butterfly and clip into it. Use a prussik loop or thimble prussik. If you have a sling, choke it on the branch and clip your lanyard carabiner into the sling; that won't use any of your lanyard length to wrap the around the limb and the carabiner will be properly loaded. The alternatives may not be a quick and dirty as the munter.

 

[Zebco Kid]

I have snap hooks on one end of my lanyards, so I wouldn't be trying to replicate exactly what's shown in the video. A few random thoughts the technique from someone who doesn't use a DEDA lanyard:
> If it's not primary life support, possibly loading the carabiner in a way that's not directly along the long axis should be less of a concern.
> The munter needs to be set so it doesn't inadvertently end up on the carabiner gate. That might be worse than loading the carabiner off axis.
> Since the limb is not being securely choked, the loop seems more prone to dropping or slipping down the limb.
> The munter seems unlikely to move when rigged as shown in the video.
> The same thing can be accomplished in other ways. Tie a butterfly and clip into it. Use a prussik loop or thimble prussik. If you have a sling, choke it on the branch and clip your lanyard carabiner into the sling; that won't use any of your lanyard length to wrap the around the limb and the carabiner will be properly loaded. The alternatives may not be a quick and dirty as the munter.

Thank you for the reply. Something felt a bit to basic for life support. One must always listen to that voice. It’s the one that’s trying to stay alive in spite of the rest of the brain! Smile.

I think the quick attracted me, but I think I’d be more comfortable with a thimble prusik, which I have, or an alpine butterfly.

 

[Acerxharlowii]

Thank you for the reply. Something felt a bit to basic for life support. One must always listen to that voice. It’s the one that’s trying to stay alive in spite of the rest of the brain! Smile.

I think the quick attracted me, but I think I’d be more comfortable with a thimble prusik, which I have, or an alpine butterfly.

It’s definitely not life support, this technique is useful for work positioning

 

[Tom Dunlap]

The biner used isn't proper for a Munter. An HMS should be used. Less than good configuration.

Ring/prussik is a better solution I think.

 

[ghostice]

I wouldn't vote for using a munter this way either - in the first example there's rope with a potential to move/ roll right on the biner gate. Yeah, you might flip the biner but some of these Petzl eyes I've had are fierce to get a biner reoriented once in - they're designed so the biner doesn't flop around. Kinda like work to me. I like Teufelbergers Ocean Vectran 6mm rope with stainless steel thimble for these arrangements as an example. Lots of Teufelberger CE lanyard videos kickin around on AdTube . . . .
Just my 2 cents tho . . . .

 

[Lupin_IV]

Moss Cinching Lanyard prototype

My climbing style has evolved to a cinching anchor for my positioning lanyard, I still use it doubled but majority of the time cinched. Even on a spar a cinched lanyard can help a climber counter lean when you're running a saw on spurs. I've received enough grief cinching an alloy carabiner I...

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[Njdelaney]

I think in the scenario in the video I would just cinch the carabiner and not worry about it since you're supported by the climbing line anyways. Everyone must assess their own risks for themselves though

 

[Willber]

I think in the scenario in the video I would just cinch the carabiner and not worry about it since you're supported by the climbing line anyways. Everyone must assess their own risks for themselves though

And, what about a double action steel snap? It should be even safer, if side loaded, eh.
Many times I will simply cinch my steel snap back to my lanyard. It's much quicker than using a hitch.