Prusik cord by the foot question..

Christrees

Been here a while
Location
New York
Hey guys just got my first batch of prusik cord by the foot. Tired of paying for the price of swen eyes. Even tho i miss how neat the setup is. But anyway right now just getting tired of the core coming out here and there and having to milk the rope to fix it. And this is while i have the ends taped well. So just wondering if that dipping shit for rope ends will fix that. And last? Ive also heard of people whipping them which idk how to do yet but may look into it. Since a guy on here Johnny sent me a few supplies for starting trying to splice. Which i haven't got to yet. But anyway I'd appreciate your advice. Thanks
 
Here’s how I learned to secure ends of any two part rope

-Milk out some core
Tape then hot cut the core strands together anywhere from 1/2” to 3”...you’ll figure out more as you get experience

-pull off core tape
-milk core back inside sheath
-hot cut sheath shut

You end up with the inner and outer parts floating. Eventually any milking will balance out. Usually the core milks rather than finding core bunched up

Re hot cut the milked material

there are rope cutting tips for soldering irons that work well. Get a high power soldering iron or it might cool down mid cut

There are hot cutters made for cutting foam insulation. They cut kind of like electric turkey carving knives LOL

there are also rope cutters. A transformer with a soldering iron tip mounted. Mine has been in service for 30 years

Ventilate and Dont breath the fumes...Yuch!
 
Do hot knives work on heat resistant prusik cord? I always used super glue, since they don't burn in direct flame I assumed you couldn't hot knife them to cut or seal ends either.
 
Do hot knives work on heat resistant prusik cord? I always used super glue, since they don't burn in direct flame I assumed you couldn't hot knife them to cut or seal ends either.
No they don’t. HRC, BeeLine, UltraTech and the like will just char a little. There’s some polyester in those too, but it doesn’t let me melt an end all pretty like climbing lines do.
 
Here’s how I learned to secure ends of any two part rope

-Milk out some core
Tape then hot cut the core strands together anywhere from 1/2” to 3”...you’ll figure out more as you get experience

-pull off core tape
-milk core back inside sheath
-hot cut sheath shut

You end up with the inner and outer parts floating. Eventually any milking will balance out. Usually the core milks rather than finding core bunched up

Re hot cut the milked material

there are rope cutting tips for soldering irons that work well. Get a high power soldering iron or it might cool down mid cut

There are hot cutters made for cutting foam insulation. They cut kind of like electric turkey carving knives LOL

there are also rope cutters. A transformer with a soldering iron tip mounted. Mine has been in service for 30 years

Ventilate and Dont breath the fumes...Yuch!
Oh cool lol..thats awsome. Ok thanks for your advice ive been trying to look around to find what to do. I appreciate it.
 
I tried it on HRC. I don't think that cord would burn on the surface of the sun.
Right. I can get OP to melt, not clean like a poly/poly climbing line will but I can melt it. HRC not so much as a singed hair.

Things you could make out of HRC:
Safer asbestos lined gloves for hot work
Better head gaskets
Firefighting clothing
Tool supports in a foundry
Welding sleeves
 
There are tips for soldering guns if you already have one. I do the whipping then melt it together so it can’t separate.
View attachment 72248
Almost looks like my new batch. Other than all that great whipping. Lol and i dont have veritas and a few others. I got all mine from wesspur. Im going to call treestuff today see if they will add it to my order. Waiting on a shizll on back order. But anywway yeah im going to do some research on whipping. Try to figure out how to do it. It dont look that hard. I just have 0 experience with a neddle and thread. But thanks brocky i really appreciate it.
 
It dont look that hard. I just have 0 experience with a neddle and thread. But thanks brocky i really appreciate it.
Some whipping doesn't require sewing. Lockstitch or yale whiplock does. But just wrapping the outside works for minimizing milking. It works well depending on what applications you are going to use the cord for. For example, the whipping I used from Bino's videos does not work for my Hitch Hiker 2 because the bone is to narrow to pass the cord through when whipped. But my cord for the stitch hitch are fine with just a standard whipping.

Brocky's whipping looks stitched in and I would guess it allows him to get his whipping closer to the ends of his cords. Personally, I would love to here from @Brocky about his technique and what fusable cord he uses for that whipping.
 
Right thanks. And i didnt even think of that. So ok yeah wont be whipping the cords i ue for my hh2. Just the 1s i make eye to eyes.and yeah me awsell brockys post are what made me become a member. I told him in the beginning how insightful he was. Let us know brocky.
 
When I whip my 9mm Epicord and RIT for use in the bone of my HHX (smaller holes than the HH2's bone) I milk some cover down off the core then whip just the cover leaving a bit of tail on the throw line I whip with to feed it through.
 
When I whip my 9mm Epicord and RIT for use in the bone of my HHX (smaller holes than the HH2's bone) I milk some cover down off the core then whip just the cover leaving a bit of tail on the throw line I whip with to feed it through.
Oh alright..thank for the tip. I appreciate it. N this is off topic but what kind of HMS do you run if your using a hitch climber.? I just want to make sure it fits threw the hitch climber pulley. I like rock exotica and dmm. Some of the dmms look like they would fit. I run perfect os. And rockos. Love em
 

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