Pruning / Trimming / Shaping guide

Tony, what's your definition of a "singularly proper cut"? I honestly do not know what that means. Keeping in mind, many if not most attachments are not subdominant, but ccodominant, and lack a branch collar.

Any cut over 4" wide is potentially improper, per the British and German standards.
 
Tony, what's your definition of a "singularly proper cut"? I honestly do not know what that means. Keeping in mind, many if not most attachments are not subdominant, but ccodominant, and lack a branch collar.

Any cut over 4" wide is potentially improper, per the British and German standards.


By that I mean a cut that meets the guidelines, is excuted as an accepted natural target pruning cut. While the cut itself may be technically perfect. Where it occurs is just as important and may not be proper.

Clearer?

Tony
 
Exactly. I think some or maybe most customers asking for pruning are concerned with the aesthetics of the trees, and they leave it up to the arborist to make sure that "what's left behind" is safe and appropriate for the life of the tree.

As a new guy, I'm concerned with both because I have little experience in the matter. Thanks for the discussion points and the references! It's appreciated.

Feel free to continue here with pics or examples of your proudest pruning work!
Almost every client is concerned with aesthetics. Sometimes people are more concerned with safety...but if they weren't concerned with aesthetics as well, they'd just remove the tree. Orchard production comes to mind where aesthetics is probably not important.

But what does that mean? Japanese maple has been mentioned a few times. Some people shear them and they look like a giant overgrown bush...and some people like that. If it hasn't been sheared too bad, I like to suggest that we take the bush and make it look like a proper tree. Thin it out enough to see the trunk and branch structure...but not whack the heck out of it.

What about crabapples that people think should look like a lollipop? I usually get that request when the tree is 20' tall and wide and there has been little or no previous maintenance. They want it to look like the one down the street that is 4-5' wide, a different cultivar, and much younger and gets trimmed/sheared 2x per year. I don't know how to pull that off. Even on a young tree, I can usually talk folks out of that when the understand the level of maintenance it takes...

For big trees that people want "shaped" - there are often a few limbs that are longer to one side whose reduction will give the tree more symmetry, but I point out that with a large tree we are beyond dictating shape and form - that needed to happen when they were younger - and we should focus on pruning to reduce the hazards (dead/broken/poorly attached) and perhaps a few branches that are in places causing problems (traffic, against a building, etc...). "Less is more" is the phrase I like to use when pruning healthy larger trees.

Even though many clients may have one thing in mind, they are generally accepting of expert advise.
 
Almost every client is concerned with aesthetics. Sometimes people are more concerned with safety...but if they weren't concerned with aesthetics as well, they'd just remove the tree. Orchard production comes to mind where aesthetics is probably not important.

But what does that mean? Japanese maple has been mentioned a few times. Some people shear them and they look like a giant overgrown bush...and some people like that. If it hasn't been sheared too bad, I like to suggest that we take the bush and make it look like a proper tree. Thin it out enough to see the trunk and branch structure...but not whack the heck out of it.

What about crabapples that people think should look like a lollipop? I usually get that request when the tree is 20' tall and wide and there has been little or no previous maintenance. They want it to look like the one down the street that is 4-5' wide, a different cultivar, and much younger and gets trimmed/sheared 2x per year. I don't know how to pull that off. Even on a young tree, I can usually talk folks out of that when the understand the level of maintenance it takes...

For big trees that people want "shaped" - there are often a few limbs that are longer to one side whose reduction will give the tree more symmetry, but I point out that with a large tree we are beyond dictating shape and form - that needed to happen when they were younger - and we should focus on pruning to reduce the hazards (dead/broken/poorly attached) and perhaps a few branches that are in places causing problems (traffic, against a building, etc...). "Less is more" is the phrase I like to use when pruning healthy larger trees.

Even though many clients may have one thing in mind, they are generally accepting of expert advise.
Send some of those people my way. Around here it seems that the client is the one who is the expert and the tree service people are just flunkies. I have observed 3 different jobs by 3 different companies that are absolutely atrocious! I have called out 2 of the owners on their work and they shrug and say "well that's what they wanted done". I'll try to post some pictures in a few days.
 
Yes...I have plenty of clients who say "I've had XYZ out - they are really experts". I know who they are talking about, and I'm looking at the work they've done on that property.

That was based on 'blind trust' because that guy has been at it for 40 years. I try to find that balance between giving "too much information" and telling them why what I am telling them is true/the science behind it (how topping wounds don't close, why lion's tailing is bad, why deep planting killed their tree, etc...). When they see what I am describing happening and they used to think it was coincidence, now they know why... that is when they become more accepting. Especially when I am recommending less aggressive treatments or pruning.

Certainly doesn't work that way every time! But that is the goal...
 
Friday I had the opportunity to talk to one of the property owners where some of this bad work was done. It is a commercial strip mall with a grocery store as the anchor store. When I mentioned that the work was nowhere near industry standards the guy acted surprised and said he never knew there were standards for pruning.
 
Establishing and communicating the objective is the only consistent requirement in the A300.

It's amazing how many tree guys are not aware, or do not care, to bother trying to figure out what they are doing before they start doing it.
How the hell do you sell a pruning job without "so what are we trying to accomplish with this tree?"
I don't get it.
 
Establishing and communicating the objective is the only consistent requirement in the A300.

It's amazing how many tree guys are not aware, or do not care, to bother trying to figure out what they are doing before they start doing it.

That is true on many levels in many activities our industry.

Tony
 
How the hell do you sell a pruning job without "so what are we trying to accomplish with this tree?"
I don't get it.

Easy. When the owners don't know squat or don't care about details and they just want their tree to "look better". It's tough to know for sure, but if the regulations state "Establishing and communicating the objective" then they are stated well -- it can objectively satisfy "make my tree look better" all the way up to "take this sprout, and this dead limb, and these small branches over here, and by the way I painted them for you". obviously, one has the details, but they both have established objectives.

Communicating the objectives, now that would be a fun one to objectively qualify...
 
"Take that branch" isn't necessarily an objective. The objective might be "stop tree from impeding traffic on the sidewalk" and "that branch" is what needs removed to make that objective happen.

If I showed up and the owner said "I want all of the marked branches removed" I'd still ask what they were trying to accomplish. If the marked branches are the best way to accomplish that.... lets go. If I see a better option to reach their objective I'll offer that and explain why.

I've had plenty of people call about 1 tree and say "why don't you prune that one while you are here?". So o ask why/what they want to accomplish. Sometimes I talk them out of pruning. Other times that other tree ends up being the bigger part of the whole job...

Always worth figuring out what the objective is...
 
My objective is for my dog to be as cute as possible. Removing a front leg would definitely make her cuter (once she heals up). Just imagine her all hobbling around.
 
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"Comprachicos" systematically mutilated beggars to boost their income, back in the medieval days.

Aesthetics alone usually fails as an objective, if it fails to note health, safety etc. Which branches get cut is a specification.

"Maximize health, safety, and value. Minimize risk and expense." is my default objective, based on the German standard. Usually gets wildlife and aesthetic etc. considerations added.
 
An example of the "Take the money and run!" Attitude of our local companies.
 

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If it was line clearance I could possibly understand but not excuse it. No, this is what the HO wanted. Middle tree should be removed. The other two might last a year more and by that time, the HO may be dead as well.
 
If it was line clearance I could possibly understand but not excuse it. No, this is what the HO wanted. Middle tree should be removed. The other two might last a year more and by that time, the HO may be dead as well.

Wanna make a bet? Anti-topping passion often leads to wild gloom and doom predictions.
It's really hard to judge without knowing previous condition, and the owner's goals. But definitely the arborist should have sorted those goals into a better plan, and specified, and practiced, gentler pruning.

Too bad that sorting and specifying is not made clear by ISA, TCIA, et al.
 

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