Pruning saws

I guess that would depend on how long it takes and whether or not it could be sharpened back to what it was when it came from the factory.
I'm not in the habit of throwing anything out that can be reused(within reason).
The blades I see in the Sherrill catalog are in excess of $30+.
 
Hey Kevin, in my experience sharpening hand saws is time consuming and the results hardly worth the time. I use to use a double canted file(don't know if that is it's real name thats just what I learned to call it) for tri-cut blades. Took me about 45 minutes to an hour for one blade. Then to add insult to injury, the sharpening usually reduced to tooth too much to allow the blade to clear sawdust well. Maybe you'll have better luck.
 
6$??? I use a razor tooth carona hand saw and replace it for $20 about every 3-4 months depending on how badly I abuse it, but it alwyas earns it's keep. I've been wondering what the real difference is between my $20 carona saw and one of the $70 silkys? I hear people love the silky, but would I really notice a difference in performance and/or tool life?
Greg
 
Greg Wrote:I hear people love the silky, but would I really notice a difference in performance and/or tool life?
Greg[/QB][/QUOTE]

I noticed a difference. I use the Silky Zubat. It's a very good saw.

Joe
 
I'd have to agree with Joe on this one. I too use a Zubat and sometimes I wonder if climber's chainsaws would have been invented so soon if we had these handsaws back then.
rolleyes.gif
 
My number one saw is a Silky Zubat, number two is a Fanno 13. The Z is much different and worth the price. Besides the saw cutting better, it has a little nubbin on the tip that reduces the times that the blade is pulled clear of the cut. Kind of a stopper. The rubberized handle is really comfy too. With the Z you get the sheath. After that you can buy new blades.

I'm with Mark on his thought. I don't use my chainsaw very much until I'm on the inside of the crown. The saw hangs on a limb or the access line.

Tom
 
I am also a fan of the silky and have never whent back to my Fanno since .Yes its a little hard on the wallet but it seems to stay sharp longer and cuts faster.Since I started using one my 020T is pretty lonly.
 
Boy! if the 020t is sitting on the sidlines, I must be missing out, because the 020t is my best friend.Is there much difference between the Zubat and Silky? And what is the blade configuration on these two hand saws?
 
The Fanno 13 is soft steel and can be sharpened with a feather file. It does not hold an edge as long as a Corona, which also cuts better new and holds an edge quite well. Corona blades are about $13, pole saw blades about 12. (Bishop) Most pole saw blades can be resharpened by hand. I sent a bunch of blades out to be resharpened for about $5 each. Corona blades were ok, but the pole saws blades were nowhere near as sharp or smooth cutting as new. Perhaps another service might do better.

I have the Silky Prosentei and Natanoko, plus a Hayauchi 21 foot pole saw. Planning to get a Zubat, perhaps an Ibuki, and maybe a big straight blade Masaru for finishing off hinge wood cuts. (not in Sherril's, but I saw Duane Neustater's) Silkys cut a bit faster and smoother than the Corona and last longer. Not the Prosenthei, it breaks if you aren't careful with every push stroke, as the blade is too thin. It's a great tool for very fine pruning however!! On my third blade, if another breaks, I won't replace it....
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Roger

[ May 21, 2002: Message edited by: Roger Barnett ]

[ June 04, 2002: Message edited by: Roger Barnett ]
 
SOLD!, I'm off to vermeer to pick up a Zubat. It was time again to replace my Carona, skinning palms kills the blades, but it works pretty good. I'll keep my Caronas for the palm work.
Try a twist of lime with your Carona, refreshing! Especially after working in 90+ degree heat Saturday.
Greg
 
i've tried sharpenning my corona, didn't think it was worth the time, and a thin feather file is easy to mess up. If replacing the blade, learned not to overtighten screws as handle cracks easy in use then, in fact i think at one time the factory had a similar problem.

If considering to step up to silky, how much better does it cut, and are they any easier to sharpen and keep sharp? Stihl sells some that i think are silkys + Stihl name on them; wich seems to raise their value considerably..........

i have a problem with holster for Corona splitting right by the plastic bushing on the blade entrance, tooth side. Is this typical? Are there any fixes?
 
Ken,

In my experience, the hardened Corona, ARS, and Silky blades are too hard for the feather file. The sharpener guy agreed, he had to use a thin carbide wheel grinder or some such tool. Anyhow, he did a lousy job, only sharpened the smll point, and not well at that.

At the cost of Silky blades, it would be nice to be able to get them professionaly sharpened. Then again, they hold an edge for so long, might as well get a new blade as needed.
 
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