Propping a tree?

[ATH]

Looking for thoughts/ideas/talk me out of it, etc... (I've never propped a tree before, so just pretend for a moment that you think I'm clueless )


This Weeping Alaska cedar is also a leaning Alaska cedar - and has been for the last 10+ year's I've worked for this client. Clearly poor planting. Somebody had previously set a T-post and used the old wire in hose to hold it up. It's leaning more...

There isn't a great alternative to tie it back to something better. I'm thinking of a prop system.

My first thought is (2) legs that, in conjunction with the tree would make a tripod. I was thinking pressure treated 4x4 or landscape timbers. Either set those in the ground...or drill about 18" up and put a 3-4' long rebar in so the remaining length is in the ground to keep the posts from kicking out. (obviously calling 811 first - especially with gas meter right there!). They would be angled away from the tree. Might need a 3rd post about parallel to the trunk to keep the posts from sliding up or down on the tree???

Maybe some space between those with a 2x4 for the tree to rest on...But then I think I have a better idea? Maybe weave some dynamic "rope cable" (the rope used for dynamic cabling) to build a sling between the 2 pieces. The goal would be to have the tree riding on that rope instead of a rigid surface. Here's a little scratch up of what I'm thinking:


(the thinner brown would be a 2x4 or something to keep the posts from pushing together. black is the rope sling. green is the tree trunk)

The good thing is, it's not gonna really hurt anything if it fails...so while I don't want it to fail, the situation is less sensitive than if it were a huge tree over a busy sidewalk.

 

[Matias]

I like your plan. What rope did you have in mind?

 

[ATH]

I'm pretty sure what I have is Branch Saver (or its similar...pretty sure it came from Arbsession). 3/4"

Branch Saver™ 3/4" Synthetic Cabling

Branch Saver™ is an adjustable system for bracing limbs. Ice storms, wind storms and hurricanes can do damage to the earths most valuable trees. Broken Limbs Don't Always Require Removal. Often a Branch is Capable of Healing with support from a Branch Saver™ systems.

arbsession.com

 

[96coal449]

Can the client be talked into a removal and replant?
That cedar will never be straight again with that much curve.

Propping will buy it some time, but for how long?

 

[ATH]

She likes the uniqueness of the tree. It's been supported with the post/wire for 10 years... you can see that it's been leaning with the sweep in the trunk.

I don't disagree that removal/replant is a "better" plan. But since she likes it, we wanna help keep it.

 

[96coal449]

Then I like the idea of a pressure treated tripod, with 2 legs being longer at the intersection. Those 2 longer legs would hold your branch saver idea.

Or possibly a stretchy piece of cordage. Let the tree fell some movement to keep growing stronger and not become reliant on a kickstand. Kinda like the ole Cobra cabling stuff.

 

[Brocky]

Maybe install a rope from the top to the bottom, like stringing a bow?

 

[ATH]

Maybe install a rope from the top to the bottom, like stringing a bow?

Not sure I understand... connect the rope at the top of the tripod instead of the middle?

 

[Matias]

I think he means pulling the top back towards the originination point, flexing it back to where it was planted.

 

[ATH]

There's not a great place to pull the tree back.

Of course, as I said, there is currently a T post back there that the tree is tied to. It flexes a fair amount. I could put a second T post and pull back. If I did that, I would think making a V with a support rub going post to tree back to the other post. I'll have to think about that.

Any reason you think pulling or propping is better or worse?

 

[Matias]

Porque no los dos?

 

[Basswood]

I really like what Tree Care LA in Los Angeles does for propping. It’s a metal post that is cemented in with a threaded nut at the top to shore it up. I have been wanting to work more with props in general, and that one seems best to me.

 

[ATH]

I really like what Tree Care LA in Los Angeles does for propping. It’s a metal post that is cemented in with a threaded nut at the top to shore it up. I have been wanting to work more with props in general, and that one seems best to me.

That seems a little much for this tree. Where a bigger tree and bigger risks are involved I can see that being the better answer.

However, I was thinking about the posts and realizing they're going to push into the groud. Maybe cut an angle on the bottom of the posts and put a 2x8 (8" square) as a foot on the bottom? Still have the rebar sticking through that to keep it from pushing back???

 

[Bart_]

I did a similar sized cherry tree once. Patio stone to stop post punching into soil, concrete screws to brackets to hold post in place on patio stone surface, post anti-side-lean bracketed to patio stone, sacrificed one underside crotch for curved padded u bracket, about 30 to 40 deg arc contact, bracket arc bigger than trunk dia to allow for growth, tried to get post mostly vertical to lessen tendency to slide patio stone, prehoisted trunk a bit before fitting, comma splice ; )

 

[evo]

Check out the BMP’s. A prop should be a permanent system. Honestly I’d cut it down. But if you’re propping it will be expensive. A pair of 4x4 steel tubing props bolted into the tree as high as possible..
Here are a couple of apples I propped. The one I’m most proud of is the steel collar a blacksmith friend made for the project. The stem is a stove pipe which I didn’t want to drill into breaking wall 4. The collar gives about 4” of space but has a pitcher like spout that cradles a limb. The logic is the ‘bolts’ are threaded tight against the sapwood (trimmed bark) and as the tree occludes it will strengthen the attachment.
The cradle is doing most the work and if it’s damaging anything it’s just a limb.

The other tree one of two side by side. No cement (which I really advise for), it worked ok but no mechanical connection. We did the posts first and tacked one end of the horizontal allowing it to pivot. Leaving it long we were able to mark and shave the point of contact then use the extra length as a big lever to get the limb weight on it.

 

[evo]

They say a photo is 1000 words.. more of the same two projects, I think one is the second apple tree non steel attachment.

 

[colb]

You could chop it to leverage the taper and start it on a moyogi styling. Then transplant it a few iterations later since it would still be small.