Porti loading

TreeLogic said:
Agreed, it doesn't matter. 3 wraps on mine slows down just about anything to a crawl. I've never seen that in the literature anywhere. I think you would want the larger turns (on the barrel) to do the main work, but if you can stop a piece with your hands due to the wraps on the barrel, then locking it off shouldn't be an issue.

Maybe their reasoning is to make sure the locks don't become too hard to release?
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That is what I do to. I try not to squish ropes together I leave a gap between each turn.
 
I must say that Sherrill Instructional is pretty nice.

But when I think about it, you certainly wouldn't want that many wraps to snag a heavy piece. You'd want to slow it down to a stop 1st to minimize shock. Are they saying to add the extra wraps after halting the movement? I just don't understand why the extra wraps if you can already stop it with your hands. Maybe a little CYA going on there.
 
TreeLogic said:
I must say that Sherrill Instructional is pretty nice.

But when I think about it, you certainly wouldn't want that many wraps to snag a heavy piece. You'd want to slow it down to a stop 1st to minimize shock. Are they saying to add the extra wraps after halting the movement? I just don't understand why the extra wraps if you can already stop it with your hands. Maybe a little CYA going on there.
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That's just for locking off say behind a b&t or something. Or if you are ginning an entire tree by yourself and like screwing around a lot. I use 2 people for that. But there isn't much 3 can't handle maybe 4 to lock but 8 would break or lock before it ever moved.
 
TreeLogic said:
Both directions? Maybe I'm misunderstanding but mine can only be wrapped over, not under the barrel. Had a groundie make that mistake once and it has stuck with me forever. I ended up having to come a good way down the tree and cut a huge pine limb to pieces, because the rope got stuck in the portawrap.
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directions as in = instructions, not placement of wraps
 
its probably also for those who either dont set the "locks" on the ears well enough, or if there is a little slack put into the system and the locks drop off, with that many turns the load probably wouldnt move at all just due to the rope weight hanging off the end of the barrel.
 
It's going to depend on the weight of the load. If there is a light load, one might be able to get by with 3 wraps. The heavier the load, the more wraps required. The last cleat hitch should be on the top post. Sometimes only one cleat is needed, again depending on the load.
 
KevinS said:
I was told by 2 people that it's required when I commented on a photo of a porti wrapped with 8 wraps then locked. They were very sure about themselves. I made a joke about stopping a train and they got kinda pissy and defensive about my comment.
I didn't want to argue back with a chance of me being wrong but I did not know anyone that made that rule. Even when I looked.
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Sherrill inst. states: "...take as many wraps as possible (without overlapping line) between guide loop and retention pin..."

Remember Braveheart? "Some men are longer than others." Well the same is true here, I'm sure. Some muscle-bound gorilla pulling and squishing that line could get more wrap(s) on there than some college intern.

Sherrill doesn't say 8 wraps. Also, what size rigging line? 1/2", 5/8, 3/4....?

Common sense! Usually instructions don't call for them.

Question: Are those 2 people engineers?
 
BRT said:
Sherrill inst. states: "...take as many wraps as possible (without overlapping line) between guide loop and retention pin..."

Remember Braveheart? "Some men are longer than others." Well the same is true here, I'm sure. Some muscle-bound gorilla pulling and squishing that line could get more wrap(s) on there than some college intern.

Sherrill doesn't say 8 wraps. Also, what size rigging line? 1/2", 5/8, 3/4....?

Common sense! Usually instructions don't call for them.

Question: Are those 2 people engineers?
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Nope they're arbs
 
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