portawrap cleat hitch

boreality

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boreal forest
There's room for variations on the cleat hitch when tying off the portawrap. After a couple jams under load I've changed mine up by reversing the first fold on the far pin. Could do an eight or two before cleating, or take max wraps. What's the best?
 
Make the wraps as tight as possible all the way down the barrel. That will keep from jamming it up when there is a load. Then you can lock down on the top and bottom cleat to keep it from loosening down the barrel.
 
In one of Brion Toss's books he goes into cleating off a rope. He shows a 'lubber's cleat'. Kinda like a 'Home Depot Knot'...if you don't know a knot, tiealot.

When cleating off there should be way more friction in the wraps than is needed to hold the load. The cleating will only hold the tensionless end of the rope. If the cleating is expected to hold a load it will slip once the cleating is taken off, assuming that the rope isn't locked down already.

Keep all of the wraps fair while loading and unloading.

Uncleating a tensioned rope is a good way to loose a finger!
 
OK I get it. I've left the porty work to my ground man, so lost touch a little. I'll fill him in with this advice. He did come up with a neat solution, but not as good as these. Can I say "duh" now?
 
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If the cleating is expected to hold a load it will slip once the cleating is taken off, assuming that the rope isn't locked down already... Uncleating a tensioned rope is a good way to loose a finger!

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...And possibly drop a log on your head!

-Tom
 
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Uncleating tensioned rope is a good way to loose a finger!

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I pinch the rope to the barrel with one hand, and uncleat with the other. A good point, Tom.
 
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lot's of wraps on the barrel a figure eight then half hitch. No chance of it jamming.

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On the large porty, it was designed to get 7 wraps of 1/2" diameter rope on the long tube. No matter what the situation, always take as many wraps on the long tube as possible before cleating.
If the load is going to be overhead, put the porty on another tree, fairleading it over with a block.
 
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If the load is going to be overhead, put the porty on another tree, fairleading it over with a block.

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Good point, Norm, but not always possible. In fact, more often than not, I use the same tree for the LD because there is no other practical spot. When using the GRCS I always keep it out of harm's way, though.

-Tom
 

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