Please inspect my splice

emr

Location
WI
For all you splicers out there, please take a look at the pics below and let me know what you think. I would like to use this as a friction saver. Please dont hold back on any negative feedback regarding the quality of the splice. Thanks.

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030.jpg


031.jpg


032.jpg
 
Well, I haven't spliced three-strand in a while... but your splice appears to have the correct entry points and the tucks are smooth. However, I would use a Crown Splice for connecting to a small diameter piece of hardware. The Crown distributes the load over more surface area, avoids the sharp bend of a super small eye, and it looks nicer IMO.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I actually thought of doing that, but it seems that most things that I see spliced with 3 strand have the regular eye splice. I may have to redo it.... we will see. I should have been more clear in my first post, but I am fairly new to splicing and I only feel very good about my Tenex splicing. So I am hoping to get a better feeling if I should quit while I am ahead, or keep trying my hand at splicing.
 
Hello,
Nice work, especially that the tucks are flat, and that they angle slightly across the lay, rather than straight down it.
By the way, the reason that you don't see Crown splices often is that few know how to do them, let alone well. But high loads on that eye will chafe the limited bearing surface. That's why people invented thimbles, to deal with tight radii. The Crown is another way to do it, and it is perfect for smooth surfaces like you have, and in places where the bulk of a thimble is unacceptable.
How many tucks? Did you back the last set?
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
 
Thanks for the encouragement. Brion, I did 5 tucks, and to be honest..... I am not sure what you mean by "back the last set". So I assume that I did not. Can you fill me in?
 
Hi again,
"Backing" means tucking with the lay. It's a quick way to put a mild taper at the end of the splice, making it a bit less shouldered, and thus less chafe-vulnerable. These tucks should be straight down the rope, for maximum taper. As noted before, your against-the lay tucks properly angle across the lay, and this makes them smoother and tighter. It is possible to tuck too high, but experiment and you will find the ideal angle. It's hard to get this right without a fid of some sort, so consider using one, even if the rope is soft enough to work by hand.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
 
Excellent information Brion.

3 strand was actually the first rope that I learned to splice thanks to Brion’s marine book Chapman’s Book of Knots.

I still splice a lot of 3 strand Samson ProMaster ½” line and like using it for safety lanyards while working in pitchy conifers. Cheap and disposable.

Brion, how’s the ankle doing since the surgery? Are you absailing again?
 
emr, the picture shows a modified crown splice that I have been using. Both of the 3-strand splices are tapered, but not in the fashion described by Brion. After 5 tucks, cut away half of each strand about 1/2 in from the rope. Tuck the remaining half strands one more time against the lay, and then cut them about 1/2 in from the rope.

I have a number of these that have served me well, but from now on I think I will use Tenex (a 5/16 in version shown). They are very fast and easy to make, and should hold up quite well.
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I also recommend the crown knot for this situation. This link is the quickest I can find that shows how to do it: http://www.animatedknots.com/backspliceb...knots.com#Crown

Another recommendation is to ditch the electrical tape. I've seen that electrical tape doesn't hold up well in the trees. I think you'd be better off putting nothing there. The adhesive for the tape will smear off on the rope and the tape will probably fail eventually.

Just leave inch long tails and they'll eventually fuzz up and they'll just hold their position.

Good work!

love
nick
 
Thanks again everyone. I will pull this splice apart and redo it with a crown splice. After I get it done, I will try and post another set of pics for you to take a look at. Moray, the method you mentioned for a taper is how I do it.

Nick- do you recommend melting the ends of each stand, or just cut them long and leave them as is?
 
Zac hit that one right. The melting can be tidy, but you run the risk of melting the important strands, so be careful.

I just leave 'em fuzzy. Looks bad at first, but it sorta settles in and you'll not notice it later.

Once you get the procedure down, order some of the hard lay 3 strand that New England or Samson make. It is more chafe resistant and less likely to indiana-jones itself on the way down.

Great stuff!

love
nick
 

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