Opinions on the Computer Controlled Husq - 500 series
- Thread starter Tree_Frog
- Start date
- Location
- Fort Covington, New York
I have (4) of the 550xp's and a 562xp and t540 and I love them. Very reliable saws for me. Some people have problems with hot starts. All you need to do is after you shut them off before you go to restart click the choke up and then back off before starting and will start always right away. If you don't do that you can pull and pull and will not start til its cooled off.
Jeff
Branched out member
- Location
- Marlborough, MA
I have mixed emotions about them: great when they're working properly, nightmarish when they're not. Like ArboristDean said, lots of hot start issues (haven't tried his trick yet). And despite the computers, both our 576xp and 562xp leaned themselves out several weeks ago and became boat anchors. The older 372xp still runs fine, so we picked up new 372s to replace the two 500 series.
chiselbit
Been here a while
I have a 562 and I love it. I always push the kill switch down and let it spring back up before starting while it's hot and it starts fine. Sometimes if I forget to do that it doesn't want to start. But the saw is a runner, love how it revs.
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
We have a 550 and 562. I like them both a lot. I bought the 550 to replace our dolmar 5105. Loved the dolmar but had too many chain brake issues
fall_risk
Participating member
- Location
- Philadelphia
I really like the 562, great in-tree saw with an 18" or 20" bar. The 550 is great too, when it's running, but I've had some mechanical issues.
Thank you for the input. I am trying to decide what direction I would like to go to when it comes to the 500 series. I have the climbing saw and boy it preforms. what I do not like is trying to start the thing. Once warm it floods every time rendering it useless. Almost chucked it out of the tree a couple of times. I will try the suggestions above.
I am not a fan of going to the shop. They usually are a waste of my time. My tension screw failed immediately on my new 540 and it took over a week for them to repair this. They refused to give me one so I could do it myself due to the warranty. Also they weren't happy that I do not buy the saws in their shop. They have all saws equal or above the suggested retail price on the Husqvarna website. About $60 more than Baileys for the 540. Ouch.
Now with that said, I looked up the computer program that operates the saw. Unfortunately, you cannot get the hardware/software unless you are a dealer. I hear that there is big fines to sell this stuff.
Here is the dilemma. It takes only 3 minutes to tune a saw from a cold start. Now we are victim to the shop for any work. Furthermore, we have a computer system operating a highly abused and vibrated piece of equipment.
I'm still scratching my head, as our choices are the 372 (great saw but heavy for everyday ground work) for professionals or we go below the proline into the box store region.
Keep the input coming as I am getting some great feed back. Thank you!
I am not a fan of going to the shop. They usually are a waste of my time. My tension screw failed immediately on my new 540 and it took over a week for them to repair this. They refused to give me one so I could do it myself due to the warranty. Also they weren't happy that I do not buy the saws in their shop. They have all saws equal or above the suggested retail price on the Husqvarna website. About $60 more than Baileys for the 540. Ouch.
Now with that said, I looked up the computer program that operates the saw. Unfortunately, you cannot get the hardware/software unless you are a dealer. I hear that there is big fines to sell this stuff.
Here is the dilemma. It takes only 3 minutes to tune a saw from a cold start. Now we are victim to the shop for any work. Furthermore, we have a computer system operating a highly abused and vibrated piece of equipment.
I'm still scratching my head, as our choices are the 372 (great saw but heavy for everyday ground work) for professionals or we go below the proline into the box store region.
Keep the input coming as I am getting some great feed back. Thank you!
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One alibi that I heard about these 500 series saws. Please correct me if I am wrong.
They have to be initialized by a shop before you get the saw.
You have to run it full bore right out of the box cutting in to some big wood otherwise you computer sets the saw below its optimal performance. In short, breaking in the motor easy will mess your performance up. This seems strange to stress a new motor out of the box like that.
Like I said, if this is incorrect please tell me. Thanks.
They have to be initialized by a shop before you get the saw.
You have to run it full bore right out of the box cutting in to some big wood otherwise you computer sets the saw below its optimal performance. In short, breaking in the motor easy will mess your performance up. This seems strange to stress a new motor out of the box like that.
Like I said, if this is incorrect please tell me. Thanks.
JeffGu
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Osceola, Nebraska
Wait, you're suggesting that a few kilobytes of code to adjust ignition timing parameters would require doing the one thing that would be most likely to ruin the engine... just to get a calibration limit? Who told you this? Was it Elvis, Bigfoot or the Aliens they were hitching a ride with?
You'll have to excuse me if I sound a bit skeptical, but that sounds like hillbilly horseshit, to me.
JeffGu - I agree. This is why I started this thread in an attempt to vet some information and steer my tool investments in the proper direction.
I received the information 2nd hand from the saw shop. A friend of mine bought 3 540's from the shop and the shop, just after the Husky rep gave them a class, told him that information. Needless to say he buys Echos now but I haven't asked why. Probably after I told him the price difference that the shop was charging.
I picked up my 540 about a year and half ago and broke it in easy, like normal, with some light pruning. I have had the hot starting issue since the beginning. It really pushed me to rebuild/replace all of the fuel lines in my 338's after finally going down after years of use. When the saw is running I would say that there is about a 15-20% increase in power and performance over the 338. One thing that I do not like is that I end up keeping the saw running with the chain break on more then normal. To me, it makes this saw more dangerous as you are nervous about turning the thing off.
A side note to this is that Husqvarna pulled the 338 off line so you have a choice between an under powered 435 or the 540. Not much of a choice in my book.
Last month after talking with the Bailey's rep on the phone I was told that the 500 series saws has to be initialized before use. They have to connected to the computer and set up and that they would do this if you asked at the time of purchase.
I failed to confirm the alibi information above with them. Hence I am throwing it out here in this thread. If there is a knowledgeable rep reading this then please speak up.
Thanks
I received the information 2nd hand from the saw shop. A friend of mine bought 3 540's from the shop and the shop, just after the Husky rep gave them a class, told him that information. Needless to say he buys Echos now but I haven't asked why. Probably after I told him the price difference that the shop was charging.
I picked up my 540 about a year and half ago and broke it in easy, like normal, with some light pruning. I have had the hot starting issue since the beginning. It really pushed me to rebuild/replace all of the fuel lines in my 338's after finally going down after years of use. When the saw is running I would say that there is about a 15-20% increase in power and performance over the 338. One thing that I do not like is that I end up keeping the saw running with the chain break on more then normal. To me, it makes this saw more dangerous as you are nervous about turning the thing off.
A side note to this is that Husqvarna pulled the 338 off line so you have a choice between an under powered 435 or the 540. Not much of a choice in my book.
Last month after talking with the Bailey's rep on the phone I was told that the 500 series saws has to be initialized before use. They have to connected to the computer and set up and that they would do this if you asked at the time of purchase.
I failed to confirm the alibi information above with them. Hence I am throwing it out here in this thread. If there is a knowledgeable rep reading this then please speak up.
Thanks
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- Location
- Fort Covington, New York
OK seems like everyone has hard starts except me. I took a course 2 years ago by Ken palmer arbor master instructor. At the course he had a 550xp.. and before that day I hated my 550xp . After that day I bought 3 more.. when started from cold start you need to run it for 30 seconds just Rev it do not cut anywood.. this calibrate the carb to the temperature or elevation. Second once saw is hot before start.
Just move the on off switch up to choke and then back down to run.. only need to do this once.. and it will start up everytime.. will not be flooded at all.. the t540 same thing.. need to run it 30 seconds.. and for hot start on that one I usually move on off button and then move blue choke on then off then start and it starts everytime.. these are excellent saws if you follow those 2 steps if you don't these will be the worst saws for you.
Just move the on off switch up to choke and then back down to run.. only need to do this once.. and it will start up everytime.. will not be flooded at all.. the t540 same thing.. need to run it 30 seconds.. and for hot start on that one I usually move on off button and then move blue choke on then off then start and it starts everytime.. these are excellent saws if you follow those 2 steps if you don't these will be the worst saws for you.
Okay- we got a t540 from our local dealer about a year ago now, after hearing a lot of good things about the saw. The thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. It is difficult to start, cold or hot, won't idle, runs erratically, and sometimes just won't start when hot. When it gets started and is running well, it is a powerful and well-balanced saw, but we've brought it in to the dealer about 7 times (I've lost count), and it's in the shop now. They replaced the intake boot and the carb under warranty, and even though it has never run correctly, after it ran out of warranty we had to pay the last time for a new ignition, and now they want to replace the intake boot again. They said they couldn't get Husqvarna support to really give them anything or to replace the saw. I know another company here in town got one at the same time and have had the same problems.
I know they can look on the computer and see how many hours this thing has been run, I'll bet the total is under 8 hours. I'm sure it's less than that, actually. It mostly has wear on the outside from riding around in our saw box.
All I can say is NEVER AGAIN, HUSKY
I know they can look on the computer and see how many hours this thing has been run, I'll bet the total is under 8 hours. I'm sure it's less than that, actually. It mostly has wear on the outside from riding around in our saw box.
All I can say is NEVER AGAIN, HUSKY
I don't think they are yet, but will be soon. Stihl may be dealer dependent, and they certainly make their money on proprietary parts and such, but from what I can tell their customer service and response is far, far better.
Steve Connally
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Suffolk, Virginia
Yes they are. Everything new has the Mtronic system. I have a brand new 201TC that is computer controlled. I believe it was one of the last saws to get the chip addition.
I did some searching on the reviews for the 201t and they were a lot of people not liking the saw. Some talked about having to make a bit of modifications out of the box to get it to perform.
Now I go full circle back to the T435 Climbing saw. Less power than the 540. Half the price. Any one with experience with this?
Husky also has a 365 listed on their website. How does this compare with the 372 as far as weight and handling?
Anyone find any of the homeowner lines comparable to the 500 series saw? Say the 450, 445, 435, etc? These would be for limbing and bucking of smaller wood 6" and below. How long would they preform in a pro setting?
Funny all of this because I wanted to replace my 353. I just replaced all of the fuel lines and it is still going strong after 9 years of abuse as my go to limbing saw. Now they only sell it in Singapore and Japaneses markets.
Now I go full circle back to the T435 Climbing saw. Less power than the 540. Half the price. Any one with experience with this?
Husky also has a 365 listed on their website. How does this compare with the 372 as far as weight and handling?
Anyone find any of the homeowner lines comparable to the 500 series saw? Say the 450, 445, 435, etc? These would be for limbing and bucking of smaller wood 6" and below. How long would they preform in a pro setting?
Funny all of this because I wanted to replace my 353. I just replaced all of the fuel lines and it is still going strong after 9 years of abuse as my go to limbing saw. Now they only sell it in Singapore and Japaneses markets.
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- Location
- Fort Covington, New York
Trees4est what kind of fuel you running... I run nothing but the VP 94 octane 50:1 fully synthetic and non ethanol. ..I have a total of 25 saws.. and I never bring them to the dealer. Do all my own work.. you could have a air leak to just a tiny micro piece of dirt cause the saw the run like that or just a lemon carb. I do know talon of people had trouble with the 562xp carbs.. what year is your t540.. I have a 2014 and no problems... dealers will screw you one way or another...
we run stihl HP ultra synthetic, which has fuel stabilizers in it, and the gas never sits around long enough to be a problem. This thing ran poorly from day one. I do a lot of work on saws myself but I'm not going to fiddle around with tiny carb parts and I can't do dick with electronic fuel controls. There's no doubt this thing is a lemon, I'm just frustrated that they never fixed it or replaced it under warranty and now it's out of warranty and we're out of luck.
Jeff
Branched out member
- Location
- Marlborough, MA
Finally had a chance to try this. Holy crap! You're right! Is this an official Husky procedure (was this is the operator's manual and I should have seen it) or is this just a work around that you or someone else figured out? Can't believe how many times I pulled and pulled and how simple the solution is.
- Location
- Fort Covington, New York
I don't have a manual for any of my 550xps or the 562xp... I do have one for the t540 but never read it. I did the same thing as you pulled and pulled and got mad at it.. but then 2 years ago did a course by ken palmer arbormaster instructor and he had a 550 and he told us then that's what you had to do with the saw during hot start and since then no problems with any of the 500 series saws... And I think before I found out about it, that's why so many guys were selling them, cause they couldn't figure it out... but its very simple.
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