OK, OK, so SRT is great. But how do I use a SAKA and foot/knee ascenders while I'm dragging against the tree trunk?

Winchman

Carpal tunnel level member
When I first started climbing, I used a foot loop and double hand ascender. That worked fine as I built up my arm strength climbing to the large lower limbs of some oak trees in the yard where my TIP was a several feet away from the trunk. Now I'm climbing on tall pines where my TIP is a crotch of a smallish limb right at the trunk sixty or more feet up. Unless the tree is leaning in the right direction or has a curved trunk, I need to use my feet/legs to hold myself away from the trunk as I climb, and the foot loop is pretty much useless or actually a hindrance. That's the reason I continue to climb with the 3:1 pulley system using just my arms/hands.

The upper limbs are angled upward, so the TIP always ends up right next to the trunk. The few times I've found something that keeps the rope from sliding down to the trunk, the limb was too small to trust that far out.

The videos I've watched of people climbing SRT always show then clear of the trunk.

How exactly do you use your legs to climb if you need to use them to keep from dragging against the tree?
 
Yep. The whole true vertical body position thing is for when you are free air ascending. You'll have to use the foot that is going down on each step to also keep a little distance away from the trunk. Either that or use one hand on the rope for body positioning and the other on the tree to keep you off of it. Whatever is more comfortable.
 
Climbing SRT with a knee and foot ascender when you are next to a tall straight trunk, is as easy walking up a ladder. Toes against the trunk help to keep you upright. That allows your entire core to relax and for you to conserve energy.

You should not be dragging with each step along side the trunk any more than you would hit your feet against a ladder rung with each step.
 
Ah ha, the light comes on. With the 3:1 my foot was going down the tree as my body was going up. With 1:1, my foot will stay pretty much in one spot on the trunk. Thanks for the explanation and suggestions.

Wouldn't you know it....just as I get my 3:1 fine-tuned to my satisfaction, I start thinking about ditching it.
 
Use the other side of the line to ascend. Try to set your initial ascent so that it is free of branches and trunk, with a branch just below the TIP.
 
Understanding and being familiar with how to use a 3:1 system will allow you to get in and out of some really awkward locations. Not a good choice for long ascents though.
 
Rope walking near the trunk should be as easy as walking up a ladder. Stay upright and keep your toes on the trunk and your good to go. If you are in smaller wood you can grab the tree instead of your line if that feels more comfy to you. If your in limbs you can use the limbs for handhold as you walk your rope... 86 the 3:1 for ascending. It just making life harder....
 
The more you do it, the more it will become clear. Just takes doing it enough, Winch, and you have made a great start. I am almost as old as you and started with a 3:1 set up as well, as it appeared to give me the best leverage with the basic gear I started with. But over time, climbing more and more and hanging out here on the Buzz and youTube, I slowly acquired and tried newer gear and moved into more efficient rope walking systems whose benefits were not obvious at first. Tree climbing is like a lot of other pursuits, that can look deceptively simple to an onlooker or newcomer, until one actually tries it himself. Then the subtleties become apparent and one needs to slowly nail down the most effective system for the type of tree, the type of work/rec, and one's own body type, etc. It just doe snot happen overnight. (LOL, interesting typo: doe snot). I was easily a year or more of regular climbing before settling into a small number of optional systems for the majority of climbs. SRT with SAKA and foot ascender for most all initial ascent unless it was a tree with lots of close limbs all the way up so that I could simply free climb it with lanyard assist. Once up and moving around, then sometimes DdRT with either a system on the tail of my main rope or a long lanyard, sometimes just redirects with the initial SRT system, etc. I settled on either a BDB or ZZ/RW combo as a personal choice for most every outing but still try new hitch combo's etc. when I see them here on the forum. We must never stop learning. Took me a while to zero in on my present (third) saddle too. One's balance in the saddle, position of the bridge attachments at the hip, etc. has everything to do with comfort and ease of ascent, and enjoyment at height if a rec climb, especially for us older guys who get a bit top heavy. I found over time, for instance, that with my new NT Onyx I no longer needed a chest roller to stay upright. After adjustment, the saddle is perfect for me. Lots of variables, every tree and every climber is different, and the choices in gear and saddle bling beggars belief now. But there are some general principals that usually apply, one of which is that almost all of us have a lot more strength in our legs than in our arms so that any ascent system that maximizes leg use, and saves arm strength for later in the climb, is going to be preferable. The analogy to climbing a ladder is quite apt. The other basic overriding principal that I would suggest is to be sure you are as comfortable as possible just sitting in the saddle to start with, regardless of system or particular tree. If one starts out uncomfortable to any appreciable extent, it is just going to get worse. The saddle really needs to be dialed in rather more carefully than is at first apparent. I am into my third year now, of semi-regular rec climbing many dozens of times, and yet I still feel like a total novice compared to a lot of the guys on here giving advice. When these chaps suggest something, they are often coming from backgrounds of many years of hard, daily professional climbing and the cutting edge of the arborist trade. A number of them are significant innovators. Their advice is pure gold!
 
How exactly do you use your legs to climb if you need to use them to keep from dragging against the tree?


I know others have already weighed in, but here's a short video showing it. Skip the first minute or so if you want to get straight to the climbing.
 
All good suggestions, having your feet on the trunk gives you more support simply staying upright which takes even more pressure of your arms. I'm 50/50 climbing a rope walker/SAKA-type knee ascender. I still prefer one foot ascender and a half hitch of the tail on my other foot for ascent. It doesn't work great against the tree with both feet "bound" so when I'm against a trunk with that technique I simply put my hip against the trunk and use my feet the way I want to. It's like doing an all air ascent which I generally prefer for the freedom of body movement. Everyone's different but try it especially with your 3:1, you'll have freedom of leg movement and the trunk will simply be next to you. Without a knee ascender climbing feet on the trunk I'll shake out the left foot half hitch and just hop up the trunk with one foot (the one with the foot ascender), works great, not as efficient as a rope walker but very doable and gives you more freedom especially when navigating through long branch stubs or complex crown limb arrangements.
-AJ
 

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom