New Rec Climber

Ragnar

Ragnar

Participating member
Location
Texas
Hello everyone. I am slowly starting to accumulate climbing gear with the hope of getting a complete kit together (with basic skills) by the end of the year. I have read a lot of good information here and finally decided to join and introduce myself.

My reasons for wanting to learn tree climbing;

1. I enjoy tying and learning new knots

2. Will prevent the unsafe climbing of trees or awkward situations in a tractor bucket.

3. Aid in firewood collection

4. Useful when making/placing radio antennas (HAM)

5. Elevation can be useful when hunting or taking pictures

6. After gear purchase, no consumable or expense to practice

7. Can be practiced at home/close to home

8. An overall practical set of equipment and skills to have available

I am leaning towards lighter and more compact gear. Ideally, I will be able to put everything in a medium size pack.

Plan is to start with a double rope/hitch climber system and a DIY version of the CE-lanyard.

For a saddle, I am learning towards the New Tribe Fox because it seems compact/quiet and is not yellow. I like the rope bridge/rigging plate set up on the Onyx but the added bulk and potential noise that are keeping me away.

Still undecided which route to take for a friction saver.

No local mentor so most learning will be done online (forums/youtube) and from the Tree Climbers Companion.

Well, thanks for having me and I look forward to learning here.
 
Welcome Ragnar, I got both a Fox and an Onyx. They are both very comfortable saddles. The onyx is a little more work friendly than the Fox. The key to both is to keep adjusting the legs until your comfortable, it will take a few times and a few minor adjustments to get there usually. Check some of the other threads for friction saver advise while on the hitch climber system. Some times you want so friction up there to make your friction knot a little smoother to operate. Of course that also is effected by your rope choice. I won't be much help there as I went from a Blakes to mechanicals. I will say though that when on a Blakes that my setup preferred a leather to all others. Vortex line with a 5 wrap Blakes using 10mm Armor-Prus. Anything with less friction up top made the release a little grabby.
 
Nothing wrong with justifying the expense. Is there any reason to rule out doing tree work as you progress, like some light pruning over a friend's overly shaded vegetable garden? From a remunerative angle it's also nice to compare tree climbing to rock climbing, or caving.
 
There is some justification going on. I figure about 1K to get into a tree which is not bad for new hobby and the gear (tools).

No plans of pruning trees for other people and I can handle my trees with a manual pole saw from the ground. I do have a good running MS200 though ..... Down the road, I would consider working for a company part time in trees but don't want the liability that would come with doing it on my own.

Have a full cart at TreeeStuff just waiting another day or so to make final decision.

Watched all of the Richard Mumford, Climbing Arborist, Cornell Tree Climbing videos (many times) plus a few others.

Should have some gear pics to post by the end of next week.
 
SRTsteve860 said:
get a 120 foot line for your girl and you climb off the 200, or if you have the money go for a 150 or 200'er. aside from my one rope that got shortened to less than 90 feet by a groundy not paying attention all my lines are 150 feet and over, even got a 300' access line. but unless you plan on sticking to small/meduim oaks maples and conifers in the 50-60 foot range you will run out of rope quick.
Click to expand...
I think you got your threads tangled, but good advice! Ragnar hasn't said anything about a girl...yet. http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/2-new-climbers-need-advice.29635/#post-416176 ;)


Ragnar said:
Hello everyone. I am slowly starting to accumulate climbing gear with the hope of getting a complete kit together (with basic skills) by the end of the year. I have read a lot of good information here and finally decided to join and introduce myself.

My reasons for wanting to learn tree climbing;

1. I enjoy tying and learning new knots

2. Will prevent the unsafe climbing of trees or awkward situations in a tractor bucket.

3. Aid in firewood collection

4. Useful when making/placing radio antennas (HAM)

5. Elevation can be useful when hunting or taking pictures

6. After gear purchase, no consumable or expense to practice

7. Can be practiced at home/close to home

8. An overall practical set of equipment and skills to have available

I am leaning towards lighter and more compact gear. Ideally, I will be able to put everything in a medium size pack.

Plan is to start with a double rope/hitch climber system and a DIY version of the CE-lanyard.

For a saddle, I am learning towards the New Tribe Fox because it seems compact/quiet and is not yellow. I like the rope bridge/rigging plate set up on the Onyx but the added bulk and potential noise that are keeping me away.

Still undecided which route to take for a friction saver.

No local mentor so most learning will be done online (forums/youtube) and from the Tree Climbers Companion.

Well, thanks for having me and I look forward to learning here.
Click to expand...

I would say you've done your research. Looks like a good start.

As far as friction savers...I would start with a simple ring & ring. You will be developing your style and kit as you go... start low and slow and build as you advance. I would even recommend learning on the most basic system to get a firm foundation of tree climbing -> If all you had was a rope...could you set up a climbing system? Then you add to it. However, you seem to know your stuff and, from the looks of it, you probably have an understanding of the basics. I'm more relating this to you as a philosophy rather than instructions, if you know what I mean. (y)
 
Thanks John. I have been playing around with an "instructor belt", biner, and a piece rope off an old sail boat. With just that gear, I copied the set ups shown in this video. Never got off the ground but will try it again with better rope.

 
That's great! If you dropped your hitch climber etc. out of the tree you'd be able to continue climbing/get out of the tree. I carry a small figure 8 with me also, just to give me options... Good luck Ragnar!
 
I do have a figure 8 in my cart. I have been playing around a biner and munter mule hitch as descender as well. Looking forward to having some real climbing rope and a saddle to try this stuff out when weighted :)

Part of my hang up deciding on a friction saver is that I like the idea of setting up a possible ground rescue with a false crotch anchored to the base of the tree (incorporating a figure 8). A pinto and additional rope is about the same cost as a u-Saver but is significantly more weight and bulk. Also, having a life line running the entire length of tree with a ground level anchor seems like a lot more exposure than an in tree friction saver.

 
Ragnar said:
I am leaning towards lighter and more compact gear. Ideally, I will be able to put everything in a medium size pack.
Click to expand...

If you are looking for a compact kit, the rescue system for DdRT is "significantly more weight and bulk". The Rescue Rope has to be more than twice as long as your tie in point. If you are climbing at a 50' TIP you will need over 200' of rope in your bag (including both climbing and rescue lines)...100' TIP you will need over 400' of rope.

Although the added benefit of being able to be lowered in an emergency situation is always something to incorporate if possible, the circumstances have to be "ideal" for it to work smoothly. If you use one or more redirects and/or are using your lanyard ...the rescue system is irrelevant. Are you likely to be climbing with someone else?

The uSaver is a very versatile piece of gear. I really like the equalizing multi-anchor configuration! check it out at about 6:00...the current version is slightly different, but all you need is that extra ring.

Anyway, I not trying to discourage you from using a rescue setup. I think it is a great goal. Stay safe and have fun!
 
My 0.02 for the way I climb, so take for what it's worth.

Unless you have someone with you that is trained on the exact lowerable base tied system you are using, the rescue setup is worthless (IMHO). Even if you are able to call for help with a cell phone, first responders aren't likely to be able to safely use a rescue system you have set up.

I suggest getting a low cost ring to ring or sleeve type (leather or Dan House) friction saver. They are something you will always have a use for and will do an excellent job with the hitch climber system you intend to start on.

Keep in mind that you will most likely move on to SRT systems soon after starting to climb. I climb SRT and use long lanyards DdRT (or similar) to advance past my TIP and for positioning. The friction saver on the lanyards is simply chafe guard. My fancy U-Saver and even ring to ring's are mostly unused while the sleeve types see occasional use.
 
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Ragnar...after almost a year of climbing SRT, Richard's video that you posted got me to climb on a blake's hitch for the first time (figured I should have it in the "tool box"). Thanks!

It got me up 40' and back down, but it sure made me appreciate SRT for access and the hitch climber pulley system for those times that I want DdRT in the tree.:sisi:
 
Stuff started showing up :). Saddle should be here tomorrow. Ended up going with the Onyx. I hope it is not too bulky to stuff in a pack....

i-fxWPbf6-L.jpg
 
Is that ocean polyester eye & eye? I found it a little goofy interacting with the tachyon, but I might not have broken it in enough and it could have just been me. Anyhow, just know that different hitch cord interact differently with different ropes. It takes a bit of work finding the perfect match, but you should be good if you can get it to reliably grab and release when you need it to. Try a bunch of hitches too.

Yoyoman has a good video on hitches.
 
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