Need thoughts on my 200t

Gorman

Gorman

Branched out member
Location
Rhode Island
I have a 7 year old 200t that is weeeeeeeeeeek. Cuts half as fast as my 201. Had a new carb put on, had the carb tuned, then tuned again. No power. Do I need a new jug?
 
I heahya. I just want this thing to still make $$$. I have a 201 that I like but I dropped it from 20 feet on a lawn and it blew apart. Not as durable to say the least. The air filter cover is made of paper thin plastic.
 
Gorman said:
I heahya. I just want this thing to still make $$$. I have a 201 that I like but I dropped it from 20 feet on a lawn and it blew apart. Not as durable to say the least. The air filter cover is made of paper thin plastic.
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Yeah but you dropped it 20 feet. I'm sure chainsaws are not made with the thoughts of them being dropped. Sure some will fare better, but some will not. Not sure its the saw as much as it is what it was dropped on.
I would check the compression in the saw. You can buy a simple gauge that will tell you the compression. Or, just bring it down to your local chainsaw mechanic and he should have one. It could be just a simple piston and ring and maybe get a new jug while your doing the other stuff. You can buy a kit real cheap. I have done lots of husky saws and they are pretty easy. I would look into it. For a couple hundred bucks you could have that saw up and running real good.
 
Make sure the new carb is jetted correctly, and the air filter is clean. Check the compression with a reliable gauge. Anything less than 140 and I usually look into replacing rings/piston/ jug as long as the jug is tight with no leaks around the base. A worn in well used 200 should still cut right with or even beat a 201. Use the same bar and chain and same wood to perform a real test as you may not be comparing apples. As far as the saw being worn out it's my experience that the rest of the saw will be worn out from use before power is lost if the saw is maintained properly. With all the saws I have, I can only think of one I replaced the piston and rings on due to lack of compression from being worn out. The saw was in pretty rough shape from years of heavy use and needed a lot more than just a fresh piston. The only other time I have replaced a piston or jug is because the previous owner smoked it.
 
Well, the problem with getting it jetted correctly is that there is little help in my neck of the woods. It's been to 3 places and they all say it's fine but none of the mechanics have compared it to a well working 200t. I'll have my guy get his hands on a snap on compression tester and see what it says.
If I remember correctly, I need to hold the throttle fully open when I pull on the cord when checking the compression. Right?
 
Yes that's correct. I believe there are some videos on YouTube that could help teach you something about tuning the jets somewhat. Definitely something anyone who runs a saw should know how to do.

Also on the jetting you will see a lot of shop mechanics that tune them solely on a tach once you start pulling the screen on the muffler and stuff like that you might as well throw stihls rpm numbers out the window and skip the tach IMO. I set the jets to factory specs and usually have to richen up due to the muffler screen being taken out. I want to say off the top of my head that main on my 200ts are around 1.25 turns out maybe? I run mine just on the rich end because I like how they pull with the 16" bar buried. I just tune all mine by ear and have had no issues. I could probably get a hair more out of my saws as far as leaning them down a little but I hate saws that you can't dog in and push on a little if need be. I want the saw lean enough I can let it do the work and not have to push on it but if I want to dog in on a stump or cutting with the bar buried I don't want them to fall off either if this makes sense. My saws are work saws not youtube cookie cutters so I tune them accordingly. You will be able to tell once you learn how to tune if it's even close or not just by listening to it.
 
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Yeah man I can understand that, you are better off being too rich than lean. The thing I will say is a lot too rich though and the power just falls off best off trying to get somebody who knows something about chainsaws or even 2 strokes for that matter to give you some advice and lessons.
 
You've got two options, low compression or over under on your H. Another poster is right about what the techs do to tune saws, they use a set formula and if the spark screen is gone then they could easily be wrong. There also are good techs that do it the right way in wood, but it's rare.

If your compression is low you just need new rings. The piston will only need to be replaced if there is skirt wear or scuffing.

If you need a refresher on tuning your saw there are a few good videos from blsnelling on YouTube. You want 4 stroke out of cut and clean in the cut, if you are cutting and your saw is 4 stroking then you could be missing out on power.


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