more on rope

jeff_r

jeff_r

Location
BC.
I followed the previous thread on rope, with discussions on rope products and sizes and have the following question I posted there:

I understand having an access line that is suitable for SRT devices. Is there a rope that is good for both SRT and working? If Blaze is 11mm, why make the switch from something like KM111 once you're ready to work? I often access SRT but only want to buy one new rope right now. . .
 
I bought a length of Velocity for that very reason, the 11mm diameter makes it good for using with acenders and other gadgets whilst the samathane coating helps to ease the transition between new rope and used rope when used for Ddrt (particularly being that the 11mm can be difficult to grip).
 
I use a 1/2" line for both SRT and working right now - backing up the ascender with a knot seems legit, and then I just have ground person untie rope at bottom when I'm ready to change to work mode. Will an 11mm rope make life that much easier? It seems like the way to go but I'm a hard sell for new techniques. Blaze is looking good right now.
 
Matt, just as a clarification, the coating on Velocity is not Samthane. Samthane is the urethane coating they put for ID, UV, and abrasion. They have a different name for sticky coating...Samson' SureGrip technology it's called.

Just trying to keep us all on the same page :)

love
nick
 
[ QUOTE ]
I followed the previous thread on rope, with discussions on rope products and sizes and have the following question I posted there:

I understand having an access line that is suitable for SRT devices. Is there a rope that is good for both SRT and working? If Blaze is 11mm, why make the switch from something like KM111 once you're ready to work? I often access SRT but only want to buy one new rope right now. . .

[/ QUOTE ]

Also try the Fly.

A low stretch SRT line will make a hard fall in DdRT.
 
thanks for the input - I keep forgetting about falling. .
So an 11mm rope, with a bit of stretch is good for both applications - I just adjust my climbing hitch to suit the smaller diameter for Ddrt. I think I'm ready to start shopping.
 
"A low stretch SRT line will make a hard fall in DdRT. "

Question: Has anyone ever had a fall within the tree where your rope caught you?

Now, I haven't been climbing forever but it's my opinion that if you climb in a style which puts yourself in a position for a potential vertical fall something has to change. As you advance up the tree, advance your friction hitch as you go!? If the limb breaks which your rope is over and the next crotch down catches you are you really going to be thinking, "gee I'm glad I have this dynamic rope to cushion my fall... never mind that the limb which broke is now plunging straight for me from above. It's just my opinion that ropes for me as a climber are access lines and 'work positioning' aids. Bouncey ropes take more energy out of you arms than is necessary, in turn 'creating' a potentially dangerous situation by contributing to climber fatiuge. Climbers are much more apt to fall on an angle, swinging back into the tree if they slip while limb walking etc; the elongation of your rope won't help you much in this situation.

A little bounce is nice, but very little... if I'm hip thrusting and the advance rate is half the distance of my thrust I've gotten the wrong rope for the job.
 
Good points gaiatree, dynamic rope should not be used for treework, semi static yes.

The human body starts to break up at about 6 Kn of force.

You climb 4 ft above your anchor point your gonna fall 8 ft into your harness, this has the possibility of creating about 6 Kn of force on your body. This could have terrible consequences for your pelvic area.

Very sobering thought.

So I try never to climb more than 2 ft above my anchor point.
 
Its easy to generate over 6kN of force in an advancing DdRT system, if climbing with 50cm of slack at a time. 50cm slack is considered acceptable in the UK, because ropes are designed for a factor 1 fall, such as that. But once doubled, the energy absorption is halved. And that is with Type A ropes.

Dynamic ropes aren't dangerous in tree work. Only if used inappropriately the same as everything else.

Have a chew on this:
http://www.treemettlenexus.com/pdfs/FrictionHitchCompilation.pdf

This was discussed at length in the 'Mark Chisholm tie in technique' thread. I have to reply to a post there from Mahk. I'll do it now.
 
[ QUOTE ]
"A low stretch SRT line will make a hard fall in DdRT. "

Question: Has anyone ever had a fall within the tree where your rope caught you? [...]

[/ QUOTE ]

Not a direct vertical fall, like a lead fall on rock... in a tree that is. I was working in the top of a poplar about 6 feet out from my TIP and maybe a foot above it with a foot or so of slack when a limb broke. It was a dropping, swinging slap into the trunk, one of those things that happens so fast and unexpectedly you don't realize it until it's already over. It hurt when it happened but not bad, mostly from the impact with the tree... but early the next morning... Mother of God! I woke up hurting all over, like after being in a car wreck. I was miserable all day, fortunately it was a Sunday so I didn't have to work. That pain, I'm certain, was from the deceleration.

Being from a rock climbing background, one of the main problems I have is that I frequently climb above my rope, either by not tending my slack or going past my TIP. It's a hard habit to break. I'm aware of the different dynamics with tree climbing ropes and systems and I remind myself often to keep the slack tended but it's not very efficient for me sometimes. I climb the tree when possible rather than the rope and it's hard to climb without some free slack.

I'm adapting to the NO FALLS discipline of tree climbing... I never liked falling anyway... not to mention I too old for that crap now.

I shoulda never stood on that little poplar limb.
 
I stand corrected Nick
slap.gif
, any ideas what it is called? Other than 'sure grip' technology.
 
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