Milling urban trees

Very interesting informations here. Drewtree you said that when you leave the log complete it take 1 year for every inch of wood to dry (pretty much). If I use the kiln and dry method as you describe and stock the wood in an barn , do you have any ideas I'm looking at how much time before I can work with it? And when you do table etc... what is the level of humidity left in the wood that you find acceptable. Thanks
 
Very interesting informations here. Drewtree you said that when you leave the log complete it take 1 year for every inch of wood to dry (pretty much). If I use the kiln and dry method as you describe and stock the wood in an barn , do you have any ideas I'm looking at how much time before I can work with it? And when you do table etc... what is the level of humidity left in the wood that you find acceptable. Thanks
My timeframe for drying is in reference to cut and stacked lumber with sealed ends. Under these circumstances I've observed a drying rate of one inch of thickness per year on average.
 
Level of moisture for workable wood varies depending on the geographic region you are in, for me here it's 6% moisture.
 
Very interesting informations here. Drewtree you said that when you leave the log complete it take 1 year for every inch of wood to dry (pretty much). If I use the kiln and dry method as you describe and stock the wood in an barn , do you have any ideas I'm looking at how much time before I can work with it? And when you do table etc... what is the level of humidity left in the wood that you find acceptable. Thanks
For kiln drying wood it is advantageous to let the lumber sit in air with sealed ends for a month or two before placing in a kiln, once in a kiln (Depending on what type of kiln you are using and how skilled the kiln operator is) you can expect anywhere from one week to 3 weeks in the kiln to bring the moisture content down to workable levels.
 
Good info and thanks Drew. I've painted the ends but will use beeswax next time. I do have issues with checking so maybe this will help.
I too have the old torque stihls. A 070 and a 090. The 090 needs a bit of work so usually run the 070 and use a 460 for smaller stuff.
I'm very envious of the large species of Angiosperms there are in Ontario and the east. Makes me want to take a trip out with a flatbed trailer!
Painting ends does nothing, it's a common misconception that many well meaning folk have fallen victim to.. beeswax works a treat.

Here's my next victim. Sad to see it come down but i'll put it all to use. Trunk diameter is 20 inches for 12 feet. Should be some nice figuring near the lower crotch and second branch union.

GetFileAttachment
 
Painting ends does nothing, it's a common misconception that many well meaning folk have fallen victim to.. beeswax works a treat.

Do you make a mixture of one to one beeswax to linseed oil, or is it another ratio?
Do you ever let logs sit for a couple years or more before milling?
That picture didn't come through. Can make some nice Y table out of the branch unions. A friend has a Y table out of teak over 6 inches thick in there kitchen. I comment on it's beauty almost every time.
 
Since I started doing this 7 years ago I've re-purposed thousands of logs. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside whenever I come up on a job site where the tree guys were about to buck a nice black walnut into firewood lengths and cart it off and I get to tell them to leave it the hell alone. Believe me, this shit happens all the time in Toronto.. most wasteful city when it comes to wood utilization.
We salvaged a nice black walnut in Rosedale many years back. It was only with a lot of effort to find a real buyer did it happen. For many tree cos it's seen as too much effort and not their business. But then Urban Tree Salvage started up and have been successful in providing a means to repurpose urban timber. We didn't do any business with them but they were obviously on the right track. Good on you Drew! Where are you based out of?
 
We salvaged a nice black walnut in Rosedale many years back. It was only with a lot of effort to find a real buyer did it happen. For many tree cos it's seen as too much effort and not their business. But then Urban Tree Salvage started up and have been successful in providing a means to repurpose urban timber. We didn't do any business with them but they were obviously on the right track. Good on you Drew! Where are you based out of?
Toronto, ON.

I've dealt with UTS before and they're less than savory characters. They paid the right people and got in the right pockets to gain access to closed city log dumps. Just another monopoly that Urban Forestry can suck money out of. Only problem with them is that since they're the only ones allowed to take logs out of the city dumps there are way too many logs for them to deal with, so because of their existence and the monopoly they have created there is still a massive amount of wasted logs that just go through a tub grinder every few months. Species like black walnut, honey locust, curly willows, large diametre oaks... you name it.
 
I bought a Lucas mill this year to take advantage of some of the nice hardwood trees we cut down. I started with a chainsaw mill but its way too much work to be profitable. The lucas mill allows us to make slabs as well as dimensional lumber.
 
I bought a Lucas mill this year to take advantage of some of the nice hardwood trees we cut down. I started with a chainsaw mill but its way too much work to be profitable. The lucas mill allows us to make slabs as well as dimensional lumber.
Nice setup, been toying with the idea of a lucasmill but I rarely run across logs that are big enough to slow down my 090 setup. I also like the low setup time with the alaskan mill.. and with a beam machine I can whip out dimensional lumber as well, just a bit slower.

What's the throat on that model mill?
 

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