Landing pieces flat

Sometimes I get saucy with the top sections and cut a bit more than the one fifth and give it a little lift with my hand as it's leaving the notch. Cuts down on time a little bit.
 
Philtreeman#1 said:
One question on the 1/5 length rule, Do you use a 45 degree notch to get it to land flat?
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I was gonna say 30 degree, I looked it up, and according to the fundamentals book, wider speeds rotation and narrower reduces speed. Also the strength of the hinge wood and its thickness affects rotation as well.

Height:length ratio is the main factor I believe. Other things like face and hinge are just bonus modifiers.
 
John_KAYS said:
You'd be up there forever doing it like that...taking 1/5 of whats left.
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I personally agree ..what would you do ?? Maybe take it in thirds or half( depending on how big your feeling that day) on a block and rope then lay it flat ...or better yet lay it on your arbor trolley and get rid of it!
 
Aaron Cipolletti said:
I personally agree ..what would you do ?? Maybe take it in thirds or half( depending on how big your feeling that day) on a block and rope then lay it flat ...or better yet lay it on your arbor trolley and get rid of it!
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If you keep taking one fifth of the total height, you will cut an infinite amount of times. That's how I took it anyways. Clever :rolleyes:
 
I was taught by an old time arborist this. After you have brushed out the tree, and you are taking wood, you want the piece to flip once, and then land flat. The method that he used was to take large pieces when you are up high, like 10-12' sections with a very narrow notch. As you work your way down the tree, take smaller pieces and open up the notch. Once you get to your last few pieces your notch should be very wide and open. Now, this is not an exact science, but if you practice you can get a feel for it. I find it best to do from the bucket. I will post a video of a tree I have to do in a few weeks. I will try and get the spar pieces to land flat.
 
John_KAYS said:
You'd be up there forever doing it like that...taking 1/5 of whats left.;)
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I think you missed something JK--after you get halfway down, you start taking 1/10ths. Then when you're 2/3rds of the way down you start taking 1/20ths....

It makes for a long day, but the trick is to take a few extra sharp chains up there with you :tonto:
 
Yeah, just explain the 1/5 concept to the client, tell them your hourly rate, shake on it...I mean get it in writing...and then proceed as planned. Make sure you explain it quickly and with enough complexity that they don't catch on. Like the "Heads I win, tails you loose"...then flip the coin.
 
I know this is an old thread but, I looked it up too see what other climbers had to say on the subject. The 1/5 rule is something I'll have to measure out sometime. I'm glad someone took the time to figure that out. I can say that for me length has been the most important factor. I know that the higher you are the longer the pieces will be. I have gotten decent at eyeballing it. With that being said, it's not always perfect. Even if they land pretty flat a lot of times one end will hit harder a bit harder than the other if it's not just right. Which I know taper can effect that as well. I'm not sure if the 1/5 rule is a full turn but it sounds like it may be a 3/4 flip which is what I've learned to do so far. Just my 2 cents on the subject. It's great learning from you guys. Thanks!
 
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