knotless rigging

Phil

Phil

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Oak Lawn, IL
I was working with Norm one day last year and saw him use a rigging rope with a sliced eye on one end with a heavy locking hook in the splice. to rig out branches he girth hitched a sling to the piece and then clipped it to the hook. Cut the piece, lower it to the ground, groundie just unclips and sends it back up...not knots. Well i remeber this and adapted the idea to my situation. I don't know splicing so what i did was just tie a bowline in the rigging line, use a small to medium sling girth hitched around the branch and clip it to the bowline with a rigging crab. when the sling doesn't fit the pieces anymore i just go back to running bowline. smooth as a babys behind. I just thought i'd share.
 
That is about the only way i do stuff fer over a decade now; unless blocking down and catching large stuff.

Only, i have a krab in each sling that connects to the rigging eye in the line(that usually has a steel krab to connect line to belt for carrying and as a throw weight etc.). This makes each a multi-purpose set. i use these sets for redirection lines to bend them to take friction and support from a "mother support" and alter the direction to lower to a sweet spot. Or, same to make sure lines don't rub, less friction is taken or to increase the friction. Remote line sweater, bottle holder, drill holder, multiple load attatchmeants(bouquets), speedlining (which i call 'gravity bending' sometimes), false crotching, false crotching that allows the loading to firm a cracked support etc. Sometimes i partially cut through the main load to almost breathing/failing; then drop another load choked in sling/krab set in between; to snatch the main load around sidewards off a roof more cleanly(instead of trying to have someone else pulling it off). Also, with the krab in each sling set as a small weight, you can throw this weight around and let it choke thru the sling itself and catch the krab (on a good day). This can be quicker and save bending over and reaching on an old back. The sling set with this weight even makes a nice 'penalty flag' to get attention on noisy work places, as 3rd safety attatchmeant for more balance (not part of 2 count), hanging another piece off of load to change it's balance, shocking a hung up branch by dropping a loaded sling into it sharply to free it etc.; the uses for these sets are endless...

i use to use 1" 'loop runners' and heavy steel, locking krabs. Then Tom talked me into trying more expensive, smaller, lighter Dyneema slings that i joined to the captive eye of Foins.

i still will revert to Running Bowline if i run out of sets or if in larger loads; but about always with a preceding Half Hitch. i don't think a Running Bowline should be pulled pairallell with a load; but rather perpendicularly. That is why ABoK has 2 separate chapters back to back: 11)"Hitches to Spar and Rail(Right-Angle of Pull)" and 12)"Hitches to Masts, Rigging and Cable(Lengthwise Pull)"

http://www.mytreelessons.com/Pages/Caught on Camera.htm
 
As far as knotting time; mostly the ground control fumbling to untie; then sending back up with no-knot (where it can pull through support; especially if pulley support type).

As far as the ABoK comment: Taking the Standing/ Long Part as 1 part and base of loop formed as 2nd part of equal and opposite forces; pulling at perpendicular angle to load or anchor places them properly inline; for the best working of the knot mechanics.

But, pulling pairallell to/ beside/ lengthwise to load/ support/ anchor; this places the strength and security mechanics at an angle/ not inline /less gooder. A preceding Half Hitch; places a more inline resis-stance to the Standing/ long Part of the line, more properlyier. The subsequent Running Bowl. is then still pulled at angle; but with less force/ buffered by the correctness of the preceding Half; and the Running Bowl also becomes the secondary/ non-primary catch. So, even though the secondary Running Bowl is still leveraged some; it is not leveraged per the initiating force of the Standing/ long Part pull; only per the force passed from the preceding Half.

Krab or snap as Running Bowl. is less proper as it leverages the krab in any loading angle of pull, but quicker; and is much safer with 1+ preceding Halfs.

Note that the strength of Running Bowl is not the same as a Bowline; though they both depend on the change in angle placed on the Standing. Whereby in a Running Bowl depends on the tepee formed in itself to Standing (which is variable). Also, the line thinning to make another impacting weakness in the same area; would be more sudden (higher impacting) in a Bowline...

Now, if using just a Running Bowl. (knudeKnoggin abbrev. from constant emails of years); and dogging it into imperfection of swell, crotch (or cutting small humboldt of same)against the pull of loading; some security can be regained; but i believe there would still be a small strength loss.

If, maximizing; is your constant mantra as a companion for best operations and L-earning extended to the next level of observations etc.; i'd think we'd go with the olde sea way as Masr. Ashley hands down through the tides of time in the ABoK bible of many lessons ol'treehopper.

Know; i'm Knot Crazy...
 
I try to use slings exclusively. However one drawback is needing to take up the load line all the way and bumping into the sling and steel biner with the pulley. In that case a half hitch and running bowline/clove hitch works best.

If I am rigging big wood, I usually just tie the load off using a series of different knots and hitches.
 
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Now, if using just a Running Bowl. (knudeKnoggin abbrev. from constant emails of years)

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Clearly, not ENUFF e-mailing (or maybe this is "operatERror"! ):
it's "BWL", from PvdGriend, btw..

And, the subject of this thread makes me shiver in dread!

crazy.gif
 
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I don't understand. What's wrong with a bowline?

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There is nothing wrong with a running bowline.
Knotless rigging is a whole lot faster and multiple limbs can be removed in 1 lowering. Great for conifers. I have removed 7 limbs at a time. Have been using it since 1987. Since 'no knots' are involved, bigger pieces can be removed.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I don't understand. What's wrong with a bowline?

[/ QUOTE ]

There is nothing wrong with a running bowline.
Knotless rigging is a whole lot faster and multiple limbs can be removed in 1 lowering. Great for conifers. I have removed 7 limbs at a time. Have been using it since 1987. Since 'no knots' are involved, bigger pieces can be removed.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ha...I screwed up yesterday- in a huge fir. Had about a 7 limb bouquet set to go, with two limbs cut...realized I'd clipped them on the wrong side of the lowering crotch. Had to let them down double whip tackle style. Luckily, even though I was 80 feet up, I had enough tail.....
This tree had a full load of chips, and will prolly scale out at 2500 bf or so, when we crane it...150 footer, 46 inch dbh...mostly low grade, large knots....oh well.
 
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why does it make you shiver?

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Probably because it represents a lost sale of an expensive spliced line!
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Like you I will sometimes tie a bowline in the end of my rigging rope and rope out mulitple limbs girth hitched with endless loops and cliped into the bowline with biners.
 
We use many variations of knotless rigging, but I don't understand this statement:


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Since 'no knots' are involved, bigger pieces can be removed.

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Why would 'no knots' mean 'bigger pieces'?
 
We had a spliced eye in our main rigging line but cut it off; only one end of the line was being used...

Now we tie a Yosemite bowline so that both ends of the rope wear evenly.

That being said I consider myself a pro-splice arborist.
 
Yes, splices also constipate all the wear into one area; and end of the line; whereby a knot can alter this and offer other options, cleaner removal etc.(hope Nick ain't reading this!). Like anything else; it is all about tradeoffs; and capitalizing on the best properties out of what ya got. An increase in one property; guarantees a loss of it's reciprocal.
 
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