Intl. 4300 Dt466 Overheating

Bucknut

Bucknut

Carpal tunnel level member
Anyone else have this issue? 2007 model. It only overheats on the highway- even empty with no chipper. We have installed the factory radiator screen to block debris, and even shelled out to the dealer to "fix" the fan clutch, which did nothing. The fan just refuses to engage. Sometimes if I'm lucky I can get the fan to come on by repeatedly clutching in fifth gear. Otherwise it just goes up to that magic 230 degree mark and the alarm goes off. (I usually pull over at 225, but jeez it's getting old.)

We probably have to set aside about 2 hours a month to fire up the compressor and blow out the radiator. Crazy amounts of sawdust usually come out, even with the screen. Anyway, when the fan does engage I can actually watch the temp gauge drop about 30 degrees in 90 seconds. Have wondered about the possibility of having an electric fan motor installed, since I have a whole bank of unused switches in the cab. Probably not feasible.

Any similar experiences or solutions? If someone has a silver bullet fix, I'll send them a gift card for a nice dinner.

ClassicTruckMan: I know- shouldn't own anything that says International! Probably the worst truck we have owned. Our old bucket was Ford F700 with a Detroit diesel. Not a single memorable engine issue. It could be -5 degrees and that truck would start as quick as my Tahoe.
 
Honestly- not totally sure. But since it has been to the dealer for overheating issues I guess I assumed they would have checked that. Certainly worth a good look!
 
Our mechanics just fixed mine, same exact problem. Hot water power washed my rad for about 1/2 hour with the engine running. Explained like this... Hot rad bakes sap etc into the fins. Usually using blower to clean up, extra fine debris clings to sap etc. Rain and road splash dampen all the crap again and turns it into "concrete". Hot wash for extended period loosens up and removes the crap and having the engine running, you can watch the temp drop.
Another issue I've heard of is the 466's with air conditioning have to have the condenser removed to be cleaned properly because the fins are oriented opposite from one another making it almost impossible to blow or wash out.
 
I'd start with something simple like bigwood suggested, just watch the pressure on the water cause you can flatten a lot of rad fins in a hurry.

Which engine do you have in it? international has a stupid system on a lot of their engines newer than 2002 that recirculates the exhaust back into the engine(EGR), first it is cooled by the coolant so maybe some part of that EGR system is malfunctioning(these systems are full of problems), but before looking into that I'd get that fan working properly.
 
BigWood said:
Our mechanics just fixed mine, same exact problem. Hot water power washed my rad for about 1/2 hour with the engine running. Explained like this... Hot rad bakes sap etc into the fins. Usually using blower to clean up, extra fine debris clings to sap etc. Rain and road splash dampen all the crap again and turns it into "concrete". Hot wash for extended period loosens up and removes the crap and having the engine running, you can watch the temp drop.
Another issue I've heard of is the 466's with air conditioning have to have the condenser removed to be cleaned properly because the fins are oriented opposite from one another making it almost impossible to blow or wash out.
Click to expand...

This makes me think about my bucket too. I have a 3126 in it and it doesn't overheat, but does get hot on the highway. No alarm comes on but it gets up to around 220/225 and the fan kicks in. Can you physically see the blockages in the rad or is it something that isn't that accessible?
 
I wouldn't say 220/5 is too hot on the hwy. as long as when the fan kicks in and the temp drops and slowly builds when the fan kicks out. After seeing what gets bunged up in the rads and coolers of a bucket, I'd gladly pay to have them pulled and cleaned out between once a year
 
BigWood said:
I wouldn't say 220/5 is too hot on the hwy. as long as when the fan kicks in and the temp drops and slowly builds when the fan kicks out. After seeing what gets bunged up in the rads and coolers of a bucket, I'd gladly pay to have them pulled and cleaned out between once a year
Click to expand...
I'm gonna hold you to that big wood lol !! 3126 is a way better engine I would rather fix a few oil leaks then rebuild every other year like in a 466e
 
I don't know if ours is the 466e, or just the plain old 466, but either way it seems part of the problem is how tiny the radiator fins are. Lots of crap gets stuck in there and is a serious pain to get out. I get the engineers' idea- more fins equals more surface area for cooling- but not if 13 pounds of sawdust is jammed in between them. I'll try the hot water pressure wash. Can't hurt as long as it's not cranked up too high. But still- even if the radiator is clogged causing the engine to run hot- shouldn't the fan just kick on more often to deal with it? This fan just won't work. I gotta figure out the fan clutch issue I think.

Thanks fellas
 
Had the same problem. Went thru thermostat, checked computer,clutch fan. It ended being our radiator which I just had replaced. Trucks been good ever since.
 
I replaced the radiator on my '07 4300 DT466 bucket at 14,000 miles. It was the same exact problem. Plugged fins that, once wet and dried, turned cement hard. Maybe a reversing fan would help by blowing some of the debris out while the truck is working and stationary. After the new radiator, it ran cooler on the highway for a season, but then started running hotter again.
 
Good thread. We are running our second international 466 bucket truck and both have had this problem. Very good tip on the hot water. When doing this, are you using a steam clean from a distance so not to disturb the radiator fins or another method?
 
Jasonk said:
Good thread. We are running our second international 466 bucket truck and both have had this problem. Very good tip on the hot water. When doing this, are you using a steam clean from a distance so not to disturb the radiator fins or another method?
Click to expand...
More important to get crap hot, moist and loose than high pressure. Keep the spray strait at the rad, if you start shooting at an angle that's when the fins get deformed.
 
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