Interesting notching techique

maybe help overcome side lean? I have seen a similar method shown by a game of logging instructor. I think thats what it was for. I havent tried it though.

oh. never trust a man pounding a metal wedge into a palm tree with a framing hammer.
Just my opinion...
 
I have seen the boring out the center part before. If I recall right has to do something will being able to leave a larger hinge with the small hinge feel. As in it falls and pivots on the hinge like a thin or smaller hinge.

Does that make sense what I said?

Nothing with that wedge or double boring.
 
I use a trick like that to use the whole height of wedge on a small diameter stem where the wedge would usually bottom out on the hinge wood. I dont know about palms but on hardwood I use another bore cut through the face just under the first to create a crush zone as to not put too much upward force on the hinge.
 
Not that I've ever worked on a palm. But from these forums it's my understanding that the kerf pinches even without weight on it with palms. These cuts prevent that apparently.

I do that bore out the middle of the hinge on spars that are hard to pull over. The theory being the heartwood is brittle and the strong flexable wood on the outside is the important holding wood.
 
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Ekka! The Australian Daniel!

I've seen that in a Treehouse thread but can't remember what problem it solves.

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe that was Willie at TH.

If you need more lift with a short back cut, you have the first backcut kerf even with the front cut. While maintaining the steering corners and stump shot, you can pound the wedge beyond the hinge location, have the tree fall, without breaking your wedge off in the notch as would happen if your wedge was at the same height at the stump shot, and extending through.



I believe that the palms do present that pinching kerf problem mentioned. Ekka had demonstrated that in a video, with a similar cut. Evidently, otherwise, its a bar grabber.
 
I think it is a valid technique and have used it for for years. As Willbranch stated it works on smaller diameter trees. I use it on smaller diameter trees with backlean but not with alot of sidelean. Especially if it would be hard to sidewedge the tree or as stated drive in frontwise but bottom out the wedge on the hinge.

Only difference being I make my sidecuts below the center borecut instead of above. Also make several kerf cuts out of the center front to allow the wedge room to tip down as its being driven thru. (but I use plastic and an axe)

I've also seen the same technique used where a second wedge is placed an inch above the first one but that one with just a single center bore thru the stem into the face cut.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Ekka! The Australian Daniel!

I've seen that in a Treehouse thread but can't remember what problem it solves.

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe that was Willie at TH.

If you need more lift with a short back cut, you have the

[/ QUOTE ]

We're getting our internet celebrities mixed up. I thought Eric Frey (Ekka) made it up. But, maybe Willie presented it first and Ekka shot it on video.
thinking.gif


Anywho...
bangtard.gif
 
Willie at TH recently posted a video with that technique, mentioning the benefit of being able to drive it deep without the wedge busting when it went over.

No crediting anyone with developing it, just mentioning the benefit that Willie mentioned.
 
I see that technique being viable on monocotyledon trees such as palms, but not so much on trees that have a lot more fibrous tissues such as hard woods. I could be wrong, but I dont think it would be accurate 100% of the time in hardwoods.
 
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