I'm stumped. Need help with stump.

[AmericanArborist]

We removed this tree a few months ago for a customer. It was grown next to building and a cinderblock wall. I told him I wouldn't be able to grind the stump due to its location and that it has concrete blocks grown in it. Fast forward 3 months and now he is rebuilding the wall and grading dirt. The new wall needs to be right down the middle of the stump due to lot lines. I told him to excavate it out but after excavating some dirt we discovered the building didn't have the footer it should have been built with and instead was poured on a slab only. That means the tree roots are growing under the garage floor. Excavation will likely ruin the garage floor and create a cavity under the building. My initial thought is build an earth ramp to the stump and just grind through it, concrete and all. I hate to do that to my machine and teeth.

The mulberry stump is impregnated with lots of concrete. What is the best way to remove this stump without damaging the garage? Your input is much appreciated.

 

[Treezybreez]

Just a guess; sawzall, pickaxe and air spade.

 

[TimberJack]

Air spade that sucker outta there!

 

[tomthetreeman]

Excavate with air, and cut the roots going under the building? If you get it excavated well enough, maybe you can even use a chainsaw.

-Tom

 

[monkeylove]

Just thinking outside the box but....maybe a jack hammer to split the stump into pieces or hydraulic spreaders, think "jaws of life" to split the stump into pieces. Just a thought, don't laugh to hard or if you do at least thank me for adding some humor to your day. Lol.

 

[AmericanArborist]

Moneylove,
I don't think that is ridiculous at all. I am looking for some out of the box ideas on this one.
I don't have an air spade so that would be an investment to get one, plus an air compressor rental. This sounds like it would be a very delicate way to do the work and probably the most effective though.

 

[Treezybreez]

It does look like there is room for dynamite under the stump. Or you could do some grilling over it.

 

[monkeylove]

Don't they sell, maybe rent chainsaw blades with carbide tipped teeth. I think I saw them at my Stihl dealer. Might be slow but it should handle the concrete and dirt okay.

 

[Gorman]

Moneylove,
I don't think that is ridiculous at all. I am looking for some out of the box ideas on this one.
I don't have an air spade so that would be an investment to get one, plus an air compressor rental. This sounds like it would be a very delicate way to do the work and probably the most effective though.

If you don't already have an air knife you should pony up. It usually pays for itself within a year or two.

 

[Gorman]

Oh. And that's a cool pic too.

 

[Oroboros]

I would grind it and bill the customer for teeth. Concrete blocks generally don't have big rocks in them.
Maybe rent a small hammer chipper and chip the blocks out as you expose them to reduce tooth wear.

 

[oldoakman]

Decide on a course of action from the above recommendations, then find the SOB that built the garage without a proper footer and castrate him. Then find the Code Inspector who looked the other way and do the same to him. Then find the bird that crapped the mulberry seed and......

 

[TreeLogic]

Agree with treezy, get as much dirt off as possible and use the reciprocating saw on the big roots. A sharp hatchet works well to get dirt off of stumps that I have to cut low with the saw. You could always pressure wash the dirt off too but there will be mud. Still, when dry enough you might could cut some bigger roots with chainsaw. Personally Id rather get it out in one chunk than grind it. I would guess the foundation guys would too.

 

[Adkpk]

It looks almost out. The tool you need is in your hand. Keep chipping away at the sucker. Your problem is you didn't leave enough trunk to be able to grab onto that sucker.
If your really worried about the roots under the garage call a garage guy when your done.

 

[tomthetreeman]

Don't they sell, maybe rent chainsaw blades with carbide tipped teeth. I think I saw them at my Stihl dealer. Might be slow but it should handle the concrete and dirt okay.

They make a cement cutting saw, but it binds up immediately when it hits wood. A few carbide impregnated chains would definitely help, maybe you could bill a few hundred to the client for those?

 

[Gorilla]

I have carbide chains..there good!(expensive!)...I use them when I get old maples in front yards with thousands of nails in them...you still can't barrel down into concrete and metal...they get dull like any other chain...expensive to sharpen

 

[matdand]

Would a screw type log splitter make sense? Maybe you could split pieces before cutting?

 

[TreeLogic]

It does look like there is room for dynamite under the stump. Or you could do some grilling over it.

Don't think the dynamite is as easy to come by as it used to be. I've heard it was once the preferred stump removal tool.

 

[Hotsaw]

Dealt with a similar situation last winter. Jack hammer n flat spade style tip was ok. But mostly just a heavy noisy PITA. Wished we had or took time to improv an air spade. Carbide saw chains didnt do well plus the bar oil grabbed any residual dirt and packed it in the clutch housing. Best 2 tools we came up with was a cordless sawzall and lots of blades and a Stihl 14" cutoff saw with what looks like a fine tooth 14" circular saw blade. I think a screw type spliiter may work but you really need to watch the side pressure that may develop. It could damage the wall further

 

[Hotsaw]

Hard to beat a few strong backs and weak minds wielding Pulaskis tho! Ive helped dig a few as big as that out on the fireline with just Pulaskis and shovels. Cant say it was fun tho