Hitch Climbing

[Rankin]

Any comments regarding the attached pic? I first must say I'm not an Arborist, but climb both recreation and in an Engineering capacity. I have watched some double rope technique and am impressed in the ability to go up and down repeatedly as moving about all over a structure like a bridge inspection. It would seem that the DMM Hitch Climber System is probably the "be all, end all" However, for several reasons I have been trying with equipment I have. I recognize the self tending aspects of a tight closed system and have no trouble with this one, but I also recognize that someone that does it everyday may have comments on something I don't see. This arrangement started simply because I don't own a rope with a sewn eye, and although that may be better here too, I agree with DMM that a knot near the hitch is asking for trouble.

It is show with a piece of 9mm cord for display purposes, but I use it on 11mm. It's a little tighter but fits in the pulley.

So far I have tried this low and slow, but it seems just as tight or tighter than a three hole DMM pulley and a floping carabiner! That Bee-Line pursik grips the 11mm just fine, and I tried several hitch knots.

 

[Jehinten]

keep in mind that if it is not trees that you are climbing (I am not 100% sure what "In an engineering capacity" means but it makes me think of climbing steel structures) that it will be even more important for you to use a friction saver of some sort. Also although the above picture will work and be perfectly functional, if you need to climb to a higher tie-in-point then you will have to unclip your only carabiner that is also holding your hitch cord and pulley making it possible to drop items that you will need to continue climbing.

using a second carabiner on your termination end and clipping into the space between the pulley may work if the carabiner fits, this will allow you to advance your position without the risk of dropping any of the components. such as this

Another option is to use a DMM pinto pulley and clip the second carabiner into the rated becket which will give you a little more clearance between your hitch and knotted rope.

 

[Rankin]

Good point! And yes a friction saver is needed many places for use around structural steel. I have been using a made one with two ditterent size rings. And learned to set it from the ground with throw line. Learned that from Arborist sites too. Although it don’t always slide over a shape like a limb, still useful. Getting into a general position is not the problem, moving up, down, sideways while working is important.

There has always been very little crossover in climbing trades. Seems what’s fine for sport for instants will be warned by rescue or similar.

Not very long ago someone saw me with a double line and said what the hell are you doing, you can’t descend on that knot.... after a few hours he said ok, cool. I’m not going 800’ down, got a rack for that.

 

[evo]

I think to do structural climbing you need a backup line. I would be looking into dual srt, it's much more gear intensive but would allow for much more movement. No running rope to rub on steel.
The photos look just ok.. I could work, and would be cleaner with a spliced eye. The MAJOR thing is to look at rope on rope friction burning your termination. You also loose the quick on and off for moving your rope to a new anchor. Bring the bitter end back to your bridge, it's cleaner, risk free, and allows for more versatility

 

[islandarb]

Yup separate the two parts and throw on a ring. You will need another biner. Bitter end @evo . Have not heard that in ages.