Hazardous Tree Evaluation with Pics ???

macrocarpa

macrocarpa

Branched out member
Location
Midwest
This is a southern red oak, i'm guessing 25in dbh, close to home.

Client really likes the tree for shade, value, aesthetics, etc.

Tree has healed well and live tissue in good shape, but obviously serious decay, no holding wood on hollow portion. Also large fungi found in interior heartwood.

What would your recommendations be if this were your client?

Considering we are always told cavity filling is futile?

Root flare seemed solid, but there is center decay below ground level.

pics:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/53981946@N04/5333892078/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/53981946@N04/5333278027/
 
Oh, I informed them that the structure is certainly compromised and it is a hazardous tree. But if they are planning to keep the tree, I recommended deep root beneficial organics, mycho, etc and large mulch rings to improve general health and conditions.
 
Looks like a tree where you'd want to do the math with that hazard evaluation formula. And some digging to examine the decay below ground. I have no species experience it could be a keeper. You know I think deep root injected anything except water is a scam and the mychro well the tree made it this far it's probably got it's own. The mulch I agree with.
 
What's the balance of the tree? Is there a significant lean and what direction?

How does the canopy look? Large deadwood, cavities, woundwood reaction, growth rate etc.?

Is the tree protected or does it stand alone?

Where is the target in relation to the lean?

Have there been recent site changes (landscaping, irrigation, trenching, construction, excessive parking beneath the dripline?)

Does the client want to preserve the tree, assume some amount of risk?

jp
grin.gif
 
The tree is close to the house.

The crown is healthy.

Not much lean, but one huge limb toward house, I recommended some pruning to reduce weight by cutting back to laterals.

There was some excavating within the dripline to put in some sort of drainage, but that was years ago I believe.

The tree is not much protected from wind.

Yes, client really wants to preserve the tree.

How many of you would consider cavity work?
Organics fertilization?
Mulch ring?
Growth regulator?
 
I would recommend the organics/compost/mulch and excavate out the root collar some just to see what damage if any the drainage pipes/work has done? i would do the mulch ring and prune to take some of the weight off, does the growth regulator help if it is a mature tree? i am on the fence about the cavity? after you excavate that is where i would mix in the compost/orgamics. what does anyone else think?
 
Call me an idiot but assuming it doesn't have butt rot, that tree looks good to me. It's a big cavity but judging by the callous it's been there a long time.

I just saw that fungus ID'd somewhere and now I can't find it.
RCX and sounding the buttress roots is the FIRST thing I would do. Proper mulching never hurts and usually helps. From what I've learned so far, support cabling is better than reducing the sprawling limb.

Barring root problems, just keep it healthy.
 
[ QUOTE ]

There was some excavating within the dripline to put in some sort of drainage, but that was years ago I believe.



[/ QUOTE ]

mac I would be asking a lot of questions of the homeowner about the excavation work. A lot of times they would not understand how much damage can be done especially if you seem like you know it was done within the dripline? Get as much info as you can from them if possible.

It's easy to focus in on the cavity and loose sight of all the key factors when assessing risk.

jp
grin.gif
 
Does the tree look healthy? I thought the cavity was the only issue of concern.

If it's showing declining health, that's another thing but that cavity isn't like, godaweful or anything.

Does the tree show any signs of decline on the side where the irrigation was cut in?

Any significant deadwood in the top?

Any signs of wetwood?
 
no wetwood

healthy crown, no decline

excavation was done before this homeowner owned the property, so he doesn't know much about the process or root damage that took place.

the only major issue at this point is the cavity.
 
" one huge limb toward house, I recommended some pruning to reduce weight by cutting back to laterals."

yes 10% off the end can make a big difference

'There was some excavating within the dripline to put in some sort of drainage, but that was years ago I believe."

Get the owners to research that and locate.

"The tree is not much protected from wind."

Then 10% off the top may be an option if base is destabilized.

"How many of you would consider cavity work?"

I would clean out enough of the loose rot to see how deep and wide the decay is. JOB #1! no wall breaking, not even heavy scraping. The loos rot harvested goes nicely in aeration holes.

"Organics fertilization? Mulch ring?"

Sure. Adding soil and mycorrhizae from a healthy red oak may be good.

"Growth regulator?"

Probably also a good thing to try; not sure how q falcata responds to it. q phellos respond well ime.

That woundwood is so thick and strong, the trunk may be stronger than before. It is definitely lighter--think about it.
 
What Blinky and Guy have said +1

My view from afar (its just my opinion) put the saw away and your client's mind at rest RCX (carefully to avoid additional damage)...with no other issues than the cavity stop fretting...cavities is what oaks do best.

Are you are truely concerned about the big (sorry 'huge') limb? Please consider just what this line in the sand (the threshold of unacceptable risk of signifcant harm based on limb size) means...every oak with a 'huge' limb should be reduced...hmmm not very convincing IMO.

As always info typed into a post will never replace standing on the site with you and touching the tree (yes its what I do on every job) talking through my thoughts, your thoughts and what the tree is 'saying' to us...in the real world on site I might be much closer to your apprehension about the assessible risk in this case...but based on what has been written and the pics..I am not.
 
Thanks for all the good advise.

Just wanted to make sure I wasn't being delusional by thinking this tree seems pretty sturdy even with the huge cavity. The rot below ground level (the unseen) would be my biggest concern, but the root flares look very solid with no rot.

As for pruning. I wouldn't want crown reduction of the entire tree but the one huge limb is close to the same diameter as the main leader, so slowing it down and reducing weight seems like a good option. I should have taken a pic of the whole tree for you guys too. Not a very heavy/thick crown.

Thanks!
 
"The rot below ground level (the unseen) would be my biggest concern"

So probe then already.

"but the root flares look very solid with no rot."

yes so no/little rcx needed really

"As for pruning. I wouldn't want crown reduction of the entire tree but the one huge limb is close to the same diameter as the main leader, so slowing it down and reducing weight seems like a good option."

Yes from the pic that limb sticks out too much for the location. The reduction suggestion was very targeted--if a sped was written for it might say '10-20%reduction and thinning to reduce end weight.'

"Not a very heavy/thick crown."

Right, hence no need for overall reduction unless rot is extensive.
 
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