Got a few thing broke

Location
Philly
I've been putting off getting these 4 splices broken for a while. These are splices I did in February of 2010. I was at the spring symposium this year and none of these splices are from after taking that class. That's going to be for the next round.

Blue arbormaster 1/2" broke at 5410 lbs. dead center of the splice. I pulled the core and just did two 21" splices and it seems to have failed at the "cross over" or more like the meeting point of the two splices. More of a curiosity because I hate the cross over on 16 strand ropes. I only use 16 strand rope for friction savers not as a primary climbing splice, so they are always smaller in size and having a cross over almost doesn't fit. I was showed another way at the symposium that I liked with pulling the core and just making a small cross over with just the cover strands. It's pretty slick and gives a better product.

Blaze 1-2 broke @ 4300 lbs. and about 14" from the throat.

Blaze 3-4 broke @ 4,230 lbs. and about 3" from the throat.

Blaze 5-6 broke @ 4180 lbs. and about 3" from the throat.

Arbormasters tensile strength is 8100 lbs. and blaze is 5600 lbs.

1-2 broke far away from the splice it's self, almost right at the very end.

3-4 and 5-6 both broke at the stitching, which leads me to believe that the stitching has something to do with it. I'm still going to lock stitch but I'm going to be a lot more careful to not disturb the fibers. These seemed to fail right in the middle of the splice. Not sure if that's bad or good.

I'm not perfect and I know I can get the splices to be a lot better, but 4300ish is a good number. I'm comfortable climbing on them. I was hoping for better numbers but I didn't know how much disturbing the fibers really effects your splices. I was a little heavy handed removing the cores on most of the splices and then running them home I took a little bit of aggression out on them.

On this picture the order goes from top to bottom and from from 1-2 to the Arbormaster test.
 

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5-6 even closer.
grin.gif
 

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aww, no response? I was looking for any type of constructive criticism. Lets hear it?!
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Jman, thanks for having these tests done and posting the results.

What is striking is the very consistent stress/strain diagrams for the Blaze in which there is a smooth ramp-up of tension, then a sudden bit of breakage and a drop of about 1600 lbs. tension, followed by a smooth final ramp-up to the final break.

The good news is that your splices are probably near-perfect and much stronger than the results you show. What is throwing everything off, I think, is the fact that you put an eye at each end of your test ropes. I do this all the time with hollow braid, but not with double braid. My guess is that your test ropes were not in perfect balance (it would be a near-miracle if they were) and therefore the cover and core were not both working to deliver the 5600 lbs Yale specifies.

From the stress/strain curves, it looks like the core was too tight in all cases. As the tension grew, the core was always taking too much load and broke first. This is the initial 1600-lb. drop seen in the curves. From then on, only the cover, which is much stronger, was doing anything at all. The final load figure of almost 4000 lbs. would be the strength of the cover by itself. Of course the cover is degraded by the stitching, by the fact that it is swollen in the spliced section, and by the fact that it has just experienced a big shock when the core snapped inside it. The true cover-only strength would certainly be somewhat higher than the results you saw.
 
With 2 blaze splices breaking right at the splice, I'm not convinced it's a cover/core balance issue. The whipping could be the culprit. Maybe the crossover inside the rope? That is an area of strong strand distortion.

Either way, I would call 4,000 pounds, "Strong enough with room for improvement." There is no way that is gonna break day in or day out...but we know that something can be done to increase it.

What directions did you use? How long were the cover and core tails?

love
nick
 
Thank you for the response I would have not come to that conclusion, about the core failing first then the cover. I do really like the consistency in the breaks.

I used the Samson double braid class I directions. I try not to deviate from the directions. So, "R" should be about 9" of full cover and core, nothing fancy.

I've climbed on a few of my splices and been ok with it. Now after these test it makes me feel quite a bit better that I know have have something decent. Just the peace of mind is worth getting your stuff tested.
 

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