Frustrating things people do on a job......

Oh I got another.
Do any climbers actually like it when your rope guy starts taking up slack before the piece is tied? There’s an awful lot of groundies that do this, I reckon somewhere there’s climbers training these guys to do this? I get it, you’re trying to be high speed and ready to go, but that 3 seconds you saved there ain’t shit if I gotta pull more slack back to me because you didn’t leave me enough to set the bowline several feet out from where I’m standing. Also a very real chance of the rope getting pulled right out of the overhead point, or maybe I accidentally drop the rope and now they can’t flick it back to me. That last one would be mostly on me, but it’s preventable.
 
Oh I got another.
Do any climbers actually like it when your rope guy starts taking up slack before the piece is tied? There’s an awful lot of groundies that do this, I reckon somewhere there’s climbers training these guys to do this? I get it, you’re trying to be high speed and ready to go, but that 3 seconds you saved there ain’t shit if I gotta pull more slack back to me because you didn’t leave me enough to set the bowline several feet out from where I’m standing. Also a very real chance of the rope getting pulled right out of the overhead point, or maybe I accidentally drop the rope and now they can’t flick it back to me. That last one would be mostly on me, but it’s preventable.
We commonly have the ground guy pull up the rope, seems minimal but its labor saving for the climber. However the guy on the ground ties a slip knot with a long tail and usually the climber lets it run through their hand in case it needs to be stopped before the slip knot. If the climber needs to move before being ready to tie it on, the slip knot is easy to clip into a caritool.
 
How about on a crane job. I hate when a climber brings a smaller saw into the tree for a big cut because they don't wanna hang a big saw off their harness. 99% of the time they miss the cut and don't understand why I wont snap hinge wood with the boom. Bring a grown up size saw to do a grown up sized job. Have enough bar to make the cut quickly and efficiently. Drives me batty.
 
How about on a crane job. I hate when a climber brings a smaller saw into the tree for a big cut because they don't wanna hang a big saw off their harness. 99% of the time they miss the cut and don't understand why I wont snap hinge wood with the boom. Bring a grown up size saw to do a grown up sized job. Have enough bar to make the cut quickly and efficiently. Drives me batty.
I've gotten to where I won't climb on a crane with a tophandle. A modded 261 is what I start with, it saves time and energy as we quickly surpass what a tophandle can efficiently cut through.
 
Oh I got another.
Do any climbers actually like it when your rope guy starts taking up slack before the piece is tied? There’s an awful lot of groundies that do this, I reckon somewhere there’s climbers training these guys to do this? I get it, you’re trying to be high speed and ready to go, but that 3 seconds you saved there ain’t shit if I gotta pull more slack back to me because you didn’t leave me enough to set the bowline several feet out from where I’m standing. Also a very real chance of the rope getting pulled right out of the overhead point, or maybe I accidentally drop the rope and now they can’t flick it back to me. That last one would be mostly on me, but it’s preventable.
I agree that drives me crazy. The groudie should pull the rope up when I am ready. Its mental laziness to just start pulling the rope up without seeing if the climber is ready. Causes me stop stop what I am doing to grab the rope and worst case it can pull through the lowering point. A stoper knot is just a safeguard for a mistake that shouldnt happen. Same thing goes for a groudie trying to whip me the rope when I am not ready or any where near a piece I need to lower.
 
How about on a crane job. I hate when a climber brings a smaller saw into the tree for a big cut because they don't wanna hang a big saw off their harness. 99% of the time they miss the cut and don't understand why I wont snap hinge wood with the boom. Bring a grown up size saw to do a grown up sized job. Have enough bar to make the cut quickly and efficiently. Drives me batty.
This could be a wholenother thread
 
This thread may go on indefinitely lol.

To start, I hate watching people try to cut with a dull saw. How can a professional not notice how slow the saw is cutting when it is dull? Take a minute, maintenance your saw and get back at it. It's also dangerous in that cuts are sloppy and then corners are cut.
I learned that the hard way when I used my friend's Husky with a dull chain--ended up burning the engine's cylinders. Should have seen his face when I brought him back a box full of saw parts! What the F*** he said.

Well, I let him think the worst of me for a minute or so--and then pulled out the brand new replacement I'd bought him. That dull chain cost me $500!
 
I learned that the hard way when I used my friend's Husky with a dull chain--ended up burning the engine's cylinders. Should have seen his face when I brought him back a box full of saw parts! What the F*** he said.

Well, I let him think the worst of me for a minute or so--and then pulled out the brand new replacement I'd bought him. That dull chain cost me $500!
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This thread may go on indefinitely lol.

To start, I hate watching people try to cut with a dull saw. How can a professional not notice how slow the saw is cutting when it is dull? Take a minute, maintenance your saw and get back at it. It's also dangerous in that cuts are sloppy and then corners are cut.
Years ago I was leading a safety meeting and steered directly to proper sharpening for the whole meeting regarding saw safety. I witnessed way too many hairy negative rigging cuts from co-workers due to lack of saw maintenance. I felt that too often cuts weren’t aligning, and hinges were dodgy.

That day has carried on in a very positive way with all those guys. Being that our Z.133 says our saws SHALL be sharp, I don’t think it was off topic.
 
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Watching someone stretch out an entire double braid rope across the lawn to “get the twist out”, only to see them coil it up in a perfect loop as if it was 3 strand. They don’t understand that they are putting all those twists right back into the rope.

If anyone doesn’t know, I’m telling the whole internet right now…stop wasting all that time. Either buy a ROPE BAG, or let the rope lay like a bunch of figure eights as you coil it back up on your arm.

There. I said it.
 
Watching someone stretch out an entire double braid rope across the lawn to “get the twist out”, only to see them coil it up in a perfect loop as if it was 3 strand. They don’t understand that they are putting all those twists right back into the rope.
Say it again!
If anyone doesn’t know, I’m telling the whole internet right now…stop wasting all that time. Either buy a ROPE BAG, or let the rope lay like a bunch of figure eights as you coil it back up on your arm.

There. I said it.
 
putting all those twists right back into the rope.
After converting to buckets and bags my Dad worked with me. I gavee him the short talk about flaking ropes not coiling. As a farm kid, camper, USN, and Boy Scout leader he couldn't get buy just stuffing He'd make small coils then put them in. To show him what happens I had him flake the rest of the rope in the bucket. Then I pulled out the rope. When I got to his first hand coils they came out as a loose bird's nest. That convinced him to flake. Luv ya Dad! RIP
 
I believe you can coil a rope (or hose) without net twist if you make alternate loops "reverse loops." First ran across that concept in the instructions for coiling the hose on big wheeled fire extinguishers. It's too much hassle for a rope long enough to have twist issues IMHO. I flake my ropes into bags.
 

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