Footlocking Help?

macrocarpa

macrocarpa

Branched out member
Location
Midwest
I know this is something I should have been doing a long time ago to make the job less strenuous and more efficient, but I have never footlocked on a double rope set up. (competition style).

I've been getting more climbing jobs lately and usually they are small trees (40-60ft tie in) but every now and then when I have a long straight shot up it would be nice to know this technique.

Can anyone offer advise on what prusik to use and type of rope? how to get the right length? what other bells and whistles are needed? What decending equipment to carry in case decent is needed quick?(i have a figure 8) Can I use this technique with the leather cambium saver or would I need to use the rings to keep both side close together to prevent splitting the prusik?

I know this is remedial to most, just something I have put on the backburner. Pics are always very helpful.

Thanks
grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]


Can anyone offer advise on what prusik to use and type of rope?

[/ QUOTE ]

Klemheist is one and also a simple prusik. You can use your climb line if you want....or get a static so it doesn't have any stretch. The footlock cord itself any smaller diameter chord will work...rated of course

[ QUOTE ]

how to get the right length?

[/ QUOTE ]

I was told that when you sit in it the hitch should just be out of reach.

[ QUOTE ]

what other bells and whistles are needed?

[/ QUOTE ]

This can get pretty technical...lots of options maybe others can chime in.
[ QUOTE ]

What decending equipment to carry in case decent is needed quick?(i have a figure 8)

[/ QUOTE ]

figure 8 will work

[ QUOTE ]

Can I use this technique with the leather cambium saver or would I need to use the rings to keep both side close together to prevent splitting the prusik?

[/ QUOTE ]

This is all up to you...if you use your climb line and you have your final tie in point set the ring and ring right away and footlock up the climb line. Splitting the prusik is a big concern. Always have this as a thought in your mind. Other options are here as well.
 
My fav easy peasy setup is as such.

Set throwline in desired crotch. Set Rope. Pre install your desired drt climbing system on rope, tie dress and set while on the ground. Make sure enough slack is in the line above your climbing components so you dont get tangled in them. set up footlock prussik in either an english prussik or kleimheist. Having an extra beaner is really nice so you eliminate the need to switch and swap gear while aloft.

Now you have reached your desired stop on the footlock train and you need to switch over to your working system. Safety in. Remove and stow footlock loop. If you have a groundie, just have him pull down on the bitter end of your rope, thus running your hitch/system up to you. If no ground just pull your system up and your greenlight to prune. I find pre installing your hitch etc while on the ground is very smart and much safer. I have gotten off my footlock in some pretty akward and painful places, and it sucks having to tie your system on under those circumstances, the first few times you switch over in this manner you can really psych yourself out when tying knots.

Descent on an 8. If your are in comp, or practicing in the back yard this is it. Once you have finished your footlock ascent to your desired height sit down in your saddle, you are now suspended from your footlock prussik. Taking a bight of doubled rope, lace up your figure 8 and clip into your bridge. Now you need to transfer the load into your 8. This can be weird at first but no worries. Take one more lock and stand up. tend slack out of your figure 8 so no shock loading would occur if you slip. With your brake hand below the figure 8 you are ready to descend. Gently compress your footlock prussik to transfer your weight into your figure 8 nice and smooth like. The figure 8 takes the friction, not the prussik.

Your now on the ground, home safe. Tell your groundie to go do somthing!
 
10mm beeline is really popular. The spliced loops from treestuff are well worth it. Or just tie your loop with extra cordage and experiment with the length. I would say for most beginners shorter is better. If you have to take a rest and sit, you don't need an extra lock to get in position to advance the prussik when your moving again.
 
To get the the right length you take a caribiner and clip it into your harness and hold your arm straight up and measure the distance from the top of the carbiner to the top of the hands. This helps if you have someone measure that for you
smirk.gif
Then add about 12 inches for the prusik knot. If you have a bridge saddle make sure the bridge is pulled up not hanging down when you measure.

This is just my opinion because I Love Footlocking that footlocking is very efficient but doing it too much can be very strenuous on the body. I would access 5-6 trees a day from 20 to 90 ft and foot lock them all and after a while my back and shoulders began to get stressed. So use it wisely.

Use a FS so you can footlock all the way to your TIP.
 
"Now you have reached your desired stop on the footlock train and you need to switch over to your working system. Safety in. Remove and stow footlock loop. If you have a groundie, just have him pull down on the bitter end of your rope, thus running your hitch/system up to you. If no ground just pull your system up and your greenlight to prune. I find pre installing your hitch etc while on the ground is very smart and much safer. I have gotten off my footlock in some pretty akward and painful places, and it sucks having to tie your system on under those circumstances, the first few times you switch over in this manner you can really psych yourself out when tying knots."

Footlocking a secret weapon, with your DdRT system running though it, up the access line (if you have one)eliminates the need to tie in or switch over. Also, you don't need your groundies' help. A little more gear intensive, technical setup but a good one.
 
Don't let anything split your prussik not even a leaf, if anything gets between your line stop and clear it. Take it as a personal affront to your safety. Also if you stop while footlocking and load your prussik, to loosen it take a lock, stand up and push the loop that's around the coils to the side with your thumb this will loosen it so you won't have to fight with your prusik to push it up the rope. Have at least 8 feet of the working end of your climbing line on deck for ballast.
 
There is a rule of thumb for how close you can get to your anchor point without splitting your prusik to the point it becomes ineffective. You should stay a foot below for every diameter inch of the anchor. Example, 4 inch limb = 4 feet below, 5 inch limb = 5 feet below.......and so on.
 
[ QUOTE ]
There is a rule of thumb for how close you can get to your anchor point without splitting your prusik to the point it becomes ineffective. You should stay a foot below for every diameter inch of the anchor. Example, 4 inch limb = 4 feet below, 5 inch limb = 5 feet below.......and so on.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting. I didn't know that.

I have been FLing most evenings for a couple of months (except on holidays) to get decent for the TCC comp. Learning it pretty much by watching vids and online advice like you are.
I think I've made every mistake you can make. Tying prussik inexactly (how does one do that?), not setting it so it doesn't grab, climbing up 30 feet and realizing I haven't attached it to my saddle. Got leaves stuck in it. Dropped my fig-8. Etc. Etc.
So - my advice - avoid all those things!

Probably the reason I don't have broken legs is because I never let go of any rope until I can feel that the hitch has grabbed. I'm sure you do this isntinctively too, but its even more important to be sure with the prussik I think.
 
I did the same boner move
thing when I got my rope wrench. I was so excited about my new frog walker setup that I ran 45 ft up the rope, sat down............and uhhhhh nothing.........looked. sat back again and nothing. I never clipped in. Your not the only one that makes mistakes!
 
I feel way out of place here, but in the 6 years of doing this I have never bought, borrowed, or used a figure 8 - I started descending on a munter hitch and have never changed - well now i use my unicender and it makes it oh so simple and safe!
applaudit.gif
 
My advice is don't do it unless you are practicing for a comp. SRT up on RW and tie in DdRT when you get there. Just as fast and more fun. I'm not terrible at the technique either, personal best at 50' was 22 seconds. Not great but not terrible. Its just such a painful technique compared to the ease of ascenders. That being said, I'm about to bite the bullet and start training for comps again, I think. Which means, I too will be returning to the rack to get stretched again. Did I already mention I hate this technique? Bullocks
 
Of course don't forget the acronym--- T.H.A.D.S
T = Tied, dressed, and set (prusik knot)
H = Hands below knot
A = Ascent only (carry a belaying device- 8,etc.)
D = Debris out of knot
S = Spread in rope

Nora, Ive always thought the spread in the rope was a 1:5 ratio. For every inch of limb diameter you should allow 5 inches below. Maybe they have changed it recently. Either way, a good rule
 
[ QUOTE ]
Of course don't forget the acronym--- T.H.A.D.S
T = Tied, dressed, and set (prusik knot)
H = Hands below knot
A = Ascent only (carry a belaying device- 8,etc.)
D = Debris out of knot
S = Spread in rope

Nora, Ive always thought the spread in the rope was a 1:5 ratio. For every inch of limb diameter you should allow 5 inches below. Maybe they have changed it recently. Either way, a good rule

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks Matty. I haven't broken "H" yet! And time to get at it again...supper's over.
 
Yeah, I've always been a munter guy as well, scurrious chaser.

Back to the topic at hand, there are all sorts of tricks that guys use. Some tie a knot to keep the two legs of line together and add weight for the first few locks, some use velcro or tape to do the same sort of thing (comps of course). A friend of mine uses a bungee that passes behind his neck and down to the biner that connects the FL prusik to his bridge, to counter act some of the slop a bridge and the weight of a biner can create in the system.

The main problem that most people face (aside from genetic ones of course) is technique. This is really the blind leading the blind, but if you watch Mark or Kilpatrick, guys who all out fly, they don't seem to waste any movement, all their movements take them up. A lot of people (including myself) lean way back trying to get their feet up higher to take a bigger lock. The problem with this is if you are leaning back you aren't going up and it takes a lot of heft to get your weight back upright and headed up again. I've been told that you can work a lot of kinks out of your technique by getting someone to film you while you are practicing. Trim out all the excess movements that you become aware of and good luck.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I've been told that you can work a lot of kinks out of your technique by getting someone to film you while you are practicing. Trim out all the excess movements that you become aware of and good luck.

[/ QUOTE ]

X10...This is what I have been doing and its been a big help. Also there's the added bonus on days when it doesn't seem to be coming at all...reviewing footage from a few weeks back raessures me that progress had indeed been made!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom