falling challenge big tulip through deck

I believe the cut you are referring to in Gerry's book is slightly different than the cut in question. Regardless, it is my understanding that neither cut is intended to create forward momentum, which is what is really needed here.
 
No arborist here (though I occasionally portray one on the internet) but I have done a few decks in my day. If you don't wanna rig it down and have room to fell it why not just pull the rim joist, railing and a few boards and drop it through the opening? Probably take 2 hrs max to remove/replace the needed wood.

Kinda like the fence on the last dance.
 
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"Just smashed a $20,000 deck for $7,000"
That’s a good title to the YouTube channel.

I too have never heard of a whizzy other than taking a piss. I’d like to see it in detail, perhaps an articulate member on this site could offer instructions on how to do this? Better yet a tutorial video!
 
As I said, there is a fairly long thread at treehouse, which i believe includes a diagram or 2. Using this cut has never ever crossed my mind because it looks to be just another highly unreliable, unpredictable cut best left for folks working in the woods. Certainly not something to play or experiment with when your near someone’s life savings.
 
No arborist here (though I occasionally portray one on the internet) but I have done a few decks in my day. If you don't wanna rig it down and have room to fell it why not just pull the rim joist, railing and a few boards and drop it through the opening? Probably take 2 hrs max to remove/replace the needed wood.

Kinda like the fence on the last dance.

I like this idea.

Can fix the hole in the floor at the same time.
 
So if the camera is looking at the tree from 12 o'clock, I want the lay at 10:45... If I can get enough movement on the tree and early separation, I think I can get this but to jump 4-6 feet out from the trunk before it reaches the level of the deck... depending on how high the cut is and how fast the tree gets moving early ( I think the more mass the slower the movement gets started).... 6 feet would likely clear the deck.. 4 feet may not, and of course if the tree starts slow and doesn't build enough momentum to jump even the four feet, then I'll need to throw something else in my favor...

SO I was hoping to get the tree to spin on the way down... I've seen it done in one of my throwing tops videos.... unintended.. to where the trunk spun 180 degrees before hitting the ground, so the notch was pointed up... I've given it some thought and have a couple ideas, but not sure exactly what caused the tree to spin... I've thought about working on the technique so that an offending side limb could be spun away from an obstacle, but that's not what is needed here...

I was thinking could we spin the trunk by having the house side of the hinge let go early, while the far side holds on, and combine that with an side angled snipe, to get the but to slide and rotate left ... I wonder if that could spin the trunk causing it to move left ... the more I think about it, getting a tree with that wide a canopy to spin even a quarter revolution would be asking a lot ...

Probably have to add some other effect to insure the sideways movement... And if I can get enough sideways movement of the but to get it to slide or float down the hill, past the septic tank, I can probably just leave it down in the woods...

Sometimes after thinking this stuff through it just makes no sense and better to rig or remove the deck as suggested.. However the exotic cuts and rigging make better video..big tukip through deck.webp
 
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If Rico tells me it can't be done, I might just have to give it a go...
Any halfway competent treeman with some basic rigging skills and the ability to stand in some spurs for a few hours could make quick work of that simple removal.

Unfortunately you don’t seem to fit that description, or be up to the task. instead of walking, or hiring a climber to do the job, you again seem to be quite comfortable putting other people valuables in jeopardy.

Troll on homie.
 
it's not a simple removal, for anybody and certainly not a halfway competent climber... Tulip rots quickly... the tree looks like it was topped 20+ years ago.. no telling how much decay are in those crotches.. SO sending a climber, entails some risk... More risk of injury that sending the tree...

Sounds like you don't have the skill or confidence to make such a cut without putting "valuables at risk"... Just because you don't have the skills doesn't mean it can't be done safely!!!
 
As I said, there is a fairly long thread at treehouse, which i believe includes a diagram or 2. Using this cut has never ever crossed my mind because it looks to be just another highly unreliable, unpredictable cut best left for folks working in the woods. Certainly not something to play or experiment with when your near someone’s life savings.
Ok, I read about half of the posts in that thread and it looks like they’re talking about something I call a draw notch and recently have heard that others call it a sizwheel? Nothing new there, I agree with Rico and Mr. Beranek. Keep it simple, use good basic cutting technique. Leave the fancy stuff in the woods. If the whizzer is the same as a draw notch/ sizwill ive used it a hundred times, with varying success ( in the woods, away from targets of value) And it has never exhibited any levitating qualities,
 
it's not a simple removal, for anybody and certainly not a halfway competent climber... Tulip rots quickly... the tree looks like it was topped 20+ years ago.. no telling how much decay are in those crotches.. SO sending a climber, entails some risk... More risk of injury that sending the tree...

Sounds like you don't have the skill or confidence to make such a cut without putting "valuables at risk"... Just because you don't have the skills doesn't mean it can't be done safely!!!
By this statement you have proven that you are not a climber and don't know what it takes to do a tree like this. I don't make many assumptions from pictures, but I can make a plan and a backup plan for this tree in 5 seconds just from the picture. I won't bother spelling it all out to you because it's a waste of my time, but this is an EASY tree for me. The kind of thing I do often. My offer to put it in a pile in the yard is real. If it wasn't for the travel time I would do it for far less because it's easy money and this is what I do. I'm in trees that have been previously topped every week. I don't know what anyone concideres to be a good climber, but this tree is not hard for me.
 
it's not a simple removal, for anybody and certainly not a halfway competent climber... Tulip rots quickly... the tree looks like it was topped 20+ years ago.. no telling how much decay are in those crotches.. SO sending a climber, entails some risk... More risk of injury that sending the tree...

Sounds like you don't have the skill or confidence to make such a cut without putting "valuables at risk"... Just because you don't have the skills doesn't mean it can't be done safely!!!
I will let my vids and work pics speak to whether or not I possess any skills with a saw Daniel. I will also let the way I climb and cut speak to whether I have any confidence in my somewhat lowly skill set.

Try as you might you can’t make this Tulip tree be anything more than a simple straight forward removal. The fact that you feel the need to resort to chicanery, combined with the broken shit that seem to find its way into many of your pics and vids sure doesn’t speak well for your skill set or confidence buddy.

Carry on with your regularly scheduled trolling, and for Gawd sakes take RBJ up on his gracious offer.
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I haven't climbed big trees since my early 50s... did my share back in the day... have worked with some of the best climbers around .. they would make quick work of this tree... they aren't around anymore... And even if they were, I wouldn't use them if I don't need to...

How are your falling skills???

Rico are you call 3,000 for putting a "simple tree" on the ground........... gracious????
 

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