Dropped gear

[Tom Dunlap]

For what it's worth:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=dropped+tests+chris+harmston+group%3Arec.climbing

Tom

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Worth a lot to me!

Makes me take even more wonder at these lil'aluminum clips, thanx!

 

[MrPez]

I found that very interesting from a sport climbing perspective Tom. I'm going to the French Alps in a week - I'm not going to worry too much about the old pitons. But it was an interesting discussion on wire gate versus solid gate. In future I think I'll alternate the two between clip ins, and back up long distance fall potential.

As for buying old gear, I would never buy it from a tree worker! It could have been overloaded in a winching operation. I know that a karabiner can take a proof load at least half of its breaking strength without any visible defect. But it does put a question over its service life after that. A good way to tell if a krab has been overloaded that wasn't mentioned, is to look at the gate and nose connection - if the pin is slightly bent or the key lock burred, then it has probably been overloaded.

It is far more important to use them along the major axis, and choose the correct type. When choking krabs against the trunk, make sure the krab lies flat and is loaded against the spine. Choking small diameter wood can cause alloy krabs to bend!

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Before trying to wrench a flat 'biner around a small arc of lower diameter spar, i lead with a half hitch specifically to take direct load off the 'joint' (in big stuff too) of 'biner forming second choke around said spar. In this lacing, the 'biner termination goes to heavy side of leading half hitch so leading haalf hitch pulls closed and not open. Also, can schedule placement on any 'biner, to put in flattest position on spar; sometimes, cutting straigh kerf line to lay it into.

Or, choke in sling, using biner as quick connect to rigging.

[ August 24, 2002: Message edited by: TheTreeSpyder ]

[ August 24, 2002: Message edited by: TheTreeSpyder ]