Double rope with hitch climber

is your climbing line spliced or are you using a termination knot? i used to have problems using an anchor bend or a fishermans. my solution for this was tying a shorter climbing hitch, like a distel. good luck
 
Agreed, spliced line might fix that. But also, like mac said, VT is a finicky b&#*h. Personally i hate it, its too inconsistent for my liking. Try a distel, michoacan, knut, etc. something without the long loose legs.
 
DahBulldog said:
Looking for suggestions my top biner catches my VT while ascending. Climbing DdRt on hitchclimber.
Anyone else have this trouble?
Click to expand...

DahBulldog, you're not alone with this. If all else fails, here's another approach: a climbing-in-a-loop system. Pull the head end of your line down through your saddle ring and back up to the Hitchclimber middlehole. Wrap a slender sewn loop as your tending prusik, attaching to the top hole. This tending prussic can be very slender and non-interfering because the loop isn't life support.

Or you can set up a uCLIMBER with an 8mm sewn loop from Sterling. Full life support for the static access, but still a nice small connection. The pix shows my uCLIMBER with the 8mm Sterling loop. The bottom hole is for the the tail of the climbing line, for static access. But you can still use it for work positioning by connecting the carabiner right around the working end into the bottom hole.

uCLIMBER%20with%20Hitchclimber.jpg


With the "loop system" you also get hitch positioning for free. With the uCLIMBER, you get both positioning and static access.


OF
 
DahBulldog said:
Looking for suggestions my top biner catches my VT while ascending. Climbing DdRt on hitchclimber.
Anyone else have this trouble?
Click to expand...

You are certainly not the only one with this issue, but there are numerous ways to address it. Everything mentioned above is pretty sound advice.

My immediate response would be to try a Michoacan instead. Personally, I much prefer that hitch since it can be dialed in to perform just as well as a VT, but much more reliable grab. I have a 28" piece of 9mm epiCORD that rivals a Spiderjack when tied in a 4/1 Micho. No lie. It's AMAZING.

You can try adding one more tresse to the VT. If that doesn't help, another thought is to develop the technique of holding the running end away from the standing end a few inches when allowing the VT to set and hold you.

Yet another means is to abandon the HC pulley and go to single becket pulley. If the positioning options of the HC are not something you often employ, I'd simply do that, since you can connect the standing end in a number of locations that allow the top coil of the VT hitch to sit alongside a leg of rope with no obstructions.

Just remember that the Treemagineers put a good deal of testing into the HC pulley, and that product exists for very good reasons. They have plenty of online resource to demonstrate proper setup and benefits of its design.
 
Mark13y said:
Blasphemy! Eric how is that epicord? I haven't even got to hold a piece yet.
Click to expand...
I know, I know, Nick. It is blasphemy. I absolutely LOVE that little HC pulley, although we've seen it time and time again that everyone has their own preferences.

epiCORD is absolutely amazing. It is now my hands down favorite cord. I have tried the 9mm and have nothing but good things to say about it. The 10mm feels the same in my hand but I haven't tried it. The 8mm feels quite firm and may also perform differently. It's hard to explain, but the 9mm that I have almost feels "baggy", like SUPER supple and what not, but it simply DOES NOT bind. If anyone can make a hitch bind, it's me, and it's been reliable like a champ. Again, that's the 9mm and I can't speak for the other options.

If you can get one stitched at about 26.5" throat to throat you should have a winner in that 4/1 Micho on most mid-11mm lines.

Oh yeah, and best of luck to you at ITCC!!! Rip it!!!
 
oceans said:
My immediate response would be to try a Michoacan instead. Personally, I much prefer that hitch since it can be dialed in to perform just as well as a VT, but much more reliable grab. I have a 28" piece of 9mm epiCORD that rivals a Spiderjack when tied in a 4/1 Micho. No lie. It's AMAZING.
Click to expand...


Wow, Eric! On the strength of your enthusiasm, I ordered a 9x28" epi and set up your Micho in a uCLIMBER replacing the 8mm IceTail Distle. Wow: same reliable grip ... half the friction in the advance ... smoother control release.

You always have a great nose for new gear ... thanks for the tip.
 
oldfart said:
Wow, Eric! On the strength of your enthusiasm, I ordered a 9x28" epi and set up your Micho in a uCLIMBER replacing the 8mm IceTail Distle. Wow: same reliable grip ... half the friction in the advance ... smoother control release.

You always have a great nose for new gear ... thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...
Excellent, Tom! Lars has a rad new product on his hands. I don't know if we could ask for anything more out of a hitch cord. I mean really.

The only thing left to do is run this cordage until it's deemed "worn out". We already know the longevity of the cover materials so it should be a long lasting cord under normal use, and perhaps especially with a Rope Wrench (1:1 imparting 1/2 the wear, heat, etc...).

I keep telling people the story of a co-worker whose eyes bugged out of his head when he saw rope dumping through the hitch as I advanced. He asked, "Is that even real!?!?!?" I had to laugh and say, "Yes. Yes it is."

Best of luck in uLAND!
 
oldfart said:
DahBulldog, you're not alone with this. If all else fails, here's another approach: a climbing-in-a-loop system. Pull the head end of your line down through your saddle ring and back up to the Hitchclimber middlehole. Wrap a slender sewn loop as your tending prusik, attaching to the top hole. This tending prussic can be very slender and non-interfering because the loop isn't life support.

Or you can set up a uCLIMBER with an 8mm sewn loop from Sterling. Full life support for the static access, but still a nice small connection. The pix shows my uCLIMBER with the 8mm Sterling loop. The bottom hole is for the the tail of the climbing line, for static access. But you can still use it for work positioning by connecting the carabiner right around the working end into the bottom hole.

uCLIMBER%20with%20Hitchclimber.jpg


With the "loop system" you also get hitch positioning for free. With the uCLIMBER, you get both positioning and static access.


OF
Click to expand...
The uClimber or O-rig as it has been called is the way to go with the HC. With this option, you are also free to use unspliced hitch cord.
 
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