I’d say you likely did the tree a good service for the long run. Your work will prevent larger wounding in the future. We manage a few Elm cultivars in my area. There are some I met when they were very young and another I met in middle age.
With the young ones, structure is the main focus initially. I have thinned the stem count down by choosing the best attachments. Some of those cuts were choosing to retain 2 of 3 highly included leads at maybe 3” or 4” diameter. Those cuts seal quickly and actually form a wider union between the remaining leads. As the structure is formed, I still have to go in almost annually and remove the worst of the co-dominant stems in the periphery.
With the older one, it’s a never ending battle of chasing co-doms, but at a much lower frequency.
I think you got yours young enough to help steer them best in the long run, for good structure and aesthetics.
I have started to concede acute junctions on elms and other shade trees (highrise and cathedral southern live oaks) with vase-like structure and just prune for subordination. It's nice to have it all, but next best is to do what is realistic. I find that pruning to address acute junctions with those trees just widens the angle from super acute to acute, and I still expect a bark inclusion at that angle. Meanwhile, so few tactical solutions to achieve less-acute junctions exist that my options for decent aesthetic are often limited... I would prefer to plant them away from high occupancy areas and just prune for subordination rather than put effort into also pruning out acute junctions.










