Cousin atrax splice how to

[theatertech87]

Looked at the Tachyon splice and it looks like half the core strands are still there and it’s basically a class I double braid. I should have gotten a patent, did hitch cords somewhat like that a couple of years ago, but using a much easier method. How does this splice replace the Slaice if it won’t go through the ZZ?
View attachment 65707

According to teuf. (Though I can't find it) The slaice didn't fit either, and they want their vendors to be able to do the splice, which they couldn't do with the slaice...

Not much of an improvement in my book, especially with the deceased break strength of the splife splice

 

[Brocky]

I’m underwhelmed also, will need to watch the Drenaline video again, but it probably is similar diameter wise. I don’t think it is the same splice that FTC shows being done. The Cousin’s patent mentions a parallel strand splice that already existed that was difficult to get through the devices, maybe they were referring to the Cousin’s.

 

[Tepalcure]

Sadly the tachyon teufelberg splice isn't the same, it still leaves core strands in the eye and, despite being smaller than a traditional eye splice, still won't fit through a zigzag. though it's not the eye itself, but the throat that's too large, so perhaps with some modification to the core bury and taper it might be doable. Brockys method works nicely though

Hi if the tachyon spLIFE is done correctly it WILL fit through zigzag.

 

[Brocky]

[QUOTE I have seen a number of friends with the atrax rope experiencing easily damaged eye splices from general use which is concerning.

[/QUOTE]
Protect the eye with a thin cover, maybe thinner than this one to fit through a ZZ.

 

[Samsquanch]

ok, please forgive my lazy ass for not posting revised instructions for ages.
This isn't exactly how they do it, I've changed how the tapers are done to give a better result but this is how i get 'er done now days




This is for atrax ropes and similar constructions only, other 24 strand lines may have different core constructions, i.e tachyon.



Tie knot approx. 3m from end of rope



Jacket taper and marking:

Measure 750mm from rope end and mark jacket (mark A)

Measure desired eye length and extract core (3” works well)

From mark A mark 300mm towards end (mark B)

From mark A mark 500mm towards end (mark C)

At mark B, taper jacket by 12 strands towards mark A, remove one chevron pair, skip one pair, remove one pair etc until 12 strands removed. (you can cut these shorter but do not cut them flush, leave approx. 100mm)
(For black widow, it is 8 strands tapered in the same pattern)



Core taper and marking:

Milk line from knot repeatedly until core does not suck back into jacket anymore

Mark where core exits jacket

Mark 5 and ¼” from exit mark away from end of rope (mark CA)

From mark CA mark 300mm away from end (mark CB)

From mark CA mark 500mm away from end (mark CC)

From mark CA mark 700mm away from end (mark CD)

At mark CD taper core away from end, remove one doubled chevron pair, skip one pair, remove one pair etc until 6 doubled strands removed (12 total individual strands). (you can cut these shorter but do not cut them flush, leave approx. 100mm)



Crossover:



Burry the tapered jacket from mark CC past mark CD in core exiting where you finished tapering the core

Burry the tapered core from mark C past mark B in jacket exiting where you finished tapering the jacket

Milk this assembly tight making sure crossover point is smooth

You should have a small amount of core and jacket exiting where you finished the burry, mark where they exit, pull them out slightly, cut at the mark and taper ONLY 30-40mm of the end, taper these conservatively, if tapered too much this will result in necking at these points ruining the splice.



Suck the tapered ends back in, tension the eye and burry the splice cutting the taper strands flush as you go. You will need to use a prusik to milk from the knot to the eye to completely burry this splice.



Finally secret whip from the eye down a minimum of 100mm

 

[Brocky]

Nice, clear instructions! A method to adapt these to other ropes and get consistent diameters, no thin or thicker spots from mismatched tapers, is to first bury the cover, tapered down to three or four strands, and then taper the core, being able to make adjustments if not right. It’s also easier to get a fid or wire through a whole core.

 

[Samsquanch]

Nice, clear instructions! A method to adapt these to other ropes and get consistent diameters, no thin or thicker spots from mismatched tapers, is to first bury the cover, tapered down to three or four strands, and then taper the core, being able to make adjustments if not right. It’s also easier to get a fid or wire through a whole core.

Tapering the jacket a couple strands shortly after the eye mark by a few strands is what cousin do from what i can tell to have the 300mm section a bit thinner. 4 strands shortly after the eye and 8 strands at the main taper.

 

[Naturarbo]

somewhere along the line in a tree forum,maybe this 1,there was a very clean 10minutes video on how to do this splice for ZZ.
If someone finds it maybe post it please

 

[Brocky]

Are you maybe thinking of the Teufelberger SPlife video for Tachyon, another thin splice that fits through the zz?

 

[Naturarbo]

so Tachyon and Flow have same construction?
Will the tachyon splice work on the flow rope?

 

[Brocky]

I think you found out that the Flow didn’t have any core in the eye, if so it would probably be the Cousins splice. The Tachyon splice does have some core, not sure how the buries compare between the two splices.
I think the goal of the splice is to try to keep it as close to the diameter of the core as possible, with minimal bumps and thin areas, this is harder to do when splicing a different rope than what the splice was developed for. It helps the reduce taper the core after the cover tail has been buried.
Another thing with these splices is after completeing, it can be easily pulled back out to make corrections. You need to not taper too much to begin with, you can always cut more off, not so easy to add.

 

[Naturarbo]

Just stumbled across this, anyone have any concerns about the strength of the splice? as it looks like the eye is composed of just the cover, so ~half the strength of a standard double braid splice?

Nugreen's break test video seems to corroborate those rough numbers

my wondering is driven by curiosity and desire to try and apply this splice technique to ropes like the yale 11.7's, imori, that I prefer to climb on... That is of course assuming I can actually complete the splice in the first place

I opened that rope and yes its just cover

 

[Naturarbo]

I think you found out that the Flow didn’t have any core in the eye, if so it would probably be the Cousins splice. The Tachyon splice does have some core, not sure how the buries compare between the two splices.
I think the goal of the splice is to try to keep it as close to the diameter of the core as possible, with minimal bumps and thin areas, this is harder to do when splicing a different rope than what the splice was developed for. It helps the reduce taper the core after the cover tail has been buried.
Another thing with these splices is after completeing, it can be easily pulled back out to make corrections. You need to not taper too much to begin with, you can always cut more off, not so easy to add.

these are different ropes,just got that tachyon has a 2nd core purple,flow is a double braid

 

[Brocky]

Yes, the Tachyon is also a double braid and because it has the inner core the same measurements for the buries might not be the same. Knowing the percentages of the cover and the core would be valuable to better question what tapering and reducing needs to be done for each rope, or maybe having a neighbor with a pull test rig in their basement!

 

[Naturarbo]

Percentage of sheath: 55 % is this cover percent??

 

[Brocky]

Yes, sheath=cover=jacket.

 

[Samsquanch]

So I've done this on a fair few different ropes.

Ive had to modify taper and reductions for each one based of cover core calculations. Some numbers arent avaliable so ive had to base my calculations off measurements which is a bit finecky.

I wouldn't recommend this for a climbing line due to how easily the eye seems to be damaged but I've become quite fond of it for lanyards.

 

[CutHighnLetFly]

So I've done this on a fair few different ropes.

Ive had to modify taper and reductions for each one based of cover core calculations. Some numbers arent avaliable so ive had to base my calculations off measurements which is a bit finecky.

I wouldn't recommend this for a climbing line due to how easily the eye seems to be damaged but I've become quite fond of it for lanyards.

I just realized i follow you on 3 different social media platforms i feel like your strange rope stalker.
Thanks for taking the time to update your instructions

 

[Samsquanch]

I just realized i follow you on 3 different social media platforms i feel like your strange rope stalker.
Thanks for taking the time to update your instructions

Happy to help

 

[smileysap]

So. I tried yesterday to make this certain splice. I think it worked. Maybe you see it on the pictures. I forgot to pull the core first, so i need to pull the core from the other side. Fortunatly the rope is just 10 m long, so i was able to. I secured the splice at least.