CountryboyPA Storm Damage

Great video countryboypa31! One question...I was told that having that ascender as the middle link can't really be used because the ascender is not rated for life support? You see what I am saying?
 
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Not sure what your asking, or saying. The ascender is backed up with a cord above it, if thats what your saying.

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Yes you have a cord above the ascenders but the ascenders are in between that cord and tether to your harness. Ascenders are not rated for life support is my understanding like a carabiner is.
 
Gotcha, Tony and i were just talking about that today actually. I'll have to look into this more. Previously i used to run the prussic above the ascender all the way to my saddle, but didn't like it because of all the mess. Is it just the Kong, what about other ascender such as the CMI or Petzl?
 
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Gotcha, Tony and i were just talking about that today actually. I'll have to look into this more. Previously i used to run the prussic above the ascender all the way to my saddle, but didn't like it because of all the mess. Is it just the Kong, what about other ascender such as the CMI or Petzl?

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I mean you can look into those but I have the CMI one (double handle single cam) and there are no ratings on them
 
I'm curious as to how its considered exceptable then to have an ascender backing up an ascender since neither would be rated at an exceptable strength. I checked the CMI site, they have ratings of under 4000 mbs. Seems like a little bit of an inconsistancy.
 
The way I understand it is the Ascender is acceptable as long as it is used within the manufacturers instructions. In most cases its not going to be the ascender that fails if a load is applied. The sheath of the rope will peal off and fail. Mark Bridge tends to demonstrate this well with his ascender testing. I will try to find my video of his demonstration at ISA last year.
 
BTW, nice job to you both nice climb and nice editing
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It depends on the ascender and how it is configured. In some cases the body of the ascender in not rated to a full 23kn. In other cases it is the top hole that does not meet the specs. A separate tether is one solution, but it may clutter and overly complicate a system. An equal and often overlooked safety concern.

The interface of materials/hardware and host line as well as skill of the climber are also all involved in the "Safety Equation"

There are no black and white solutions. As climbers we must make informed, intelligent decisions based on industry guidelines, equipment manufacturer's guidelines, sound judgement and good experience.

Tony

P.S Thanks for the compliments.
 
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The way I understand it is the Ascender is acceptable as long as it is used within the manufacturers instructions. In most cases its not going to be the ascender that fails if a load is applied. The sheath of the rope will peal off and fail. Mark Bridge tends to demonstrate this well with his ascender testing. I will try to find my video of his demonstration at ISA last year.

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True, it will 'strip the cover', but it doesn't meet the ANSI Z133. To the best of my knowledge, the holes are rated less than 23kN on every ascender sold in the USA.

One solution is to run the tether off the krab in the top hole, while the same krab is on the back up prusik. So, the top krab holds the 'back up' prusik on the top of that krab and holds the tether on the bottom of the krab. There would be NO krab in the bottom hole.
 
I think i understand. I did a rough drawing to see if i have it right. Hopefully so its easier to understand as well.

The Blue is the rope, the red is the backup, green is the tether running to saddle. Black is my depiction of a biner.

250879-Backup.png
 

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Nice experimentation with the video editing software. Which are you using?

Also, thanks for the short clips. It keeps the viewers attention from wandering.

I'm a victim of A.D.D.T.V. & I can't stand videos that linger on...
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Yes sir, you got it.

NOTE: The prusik cordage must be pliable enough to grab the rope in case of ascender failure... Try this; Push the ascender up against the prusik and keep it there, disengage the cam and pull down with the ascender. The prusik must grab and hold, with zero slippage. Cordage and 'cordage length' are key to this set up. What may work as a friction hitch length, may NOT work in this set up.

At the Wisconsin TCC, 3 years ago, a Master's Challenge climber was gonna use this method. I asked to see the set up and then did what I explained above. The prusik failed to grab at all. The climber then wanted to do it, and it did the same thing. Needless to say, it wasn't allowed.
 
Jamin,

Thanks for the compliment. I use a mac and iMovie to do all my video stuff. Occasionally I use garage band for some of the audio.

I think 2 to 3 minutes for general stuff is plenty long. Tell the story and move on. 5 to 7 minutes is O.K. for educational "Podcasts" But the more concise the better.

Tony
 
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