- Location
- Venice, FL
Mr. Morningwood will absolutely love that one! As for me, however??? I'm-a go hurl
Cool Video
- Thread starter BostonBull
- Start date
- Location
- North of Boston
Tell me more about using explosives. What is the purpose of them? What situations are they better in?
TC
Participating member
Graeme,
It looks like you are tied in side D to side D? Why are you tied in side D to side D is there not a risk that the top could split the stem and pull you in crushing your spine and internal organs?
It looks like you only have one form of attachment when making the final cut? A flipline of some kind. Why do you not use another backup lifeline?
Why do make the back cut like that following round fast? Why not come straight through at the back?
I could be mistaken with my first two questions ....just curious.
Thanks
It looks like you are tied in side D to side D? Why are you tied in side D to side D is there not a risk that the top could split the stem and pull you in crushing your spine and internal organs?
It looks like you only have one form of attachment when making the final cut? A flipline of some kind. Why do you not use another backup lifeline?
Why do make the back cut like that following round fast? Why not come straight through at the back?
I could be mistaken with my first two questions ....just curious.
Thanks
Graeme:
How hard is that motorized climber on ropes.
It doesn't look bad from what I can see in the video.
How hard is that motorized climber on ropes.
It doesn't look bad from what I can see in the video.
TC
Participating member
Graeme, please do not take this the wrong way.
I have watched the video again, I am very impressed with the control you have taking that huge top out, but.......
Why do you not have a back up rope when using that motorized ascender?
How much do you trust that machine?
I know you've got the manual ascender back up, but....
What happens if the machine goes berserk!.........chewing the rope up really quickly and snapping it through the manual back up ascender.
I think it would be a very wise move of you to introduce a back up life line on your ascents up these giant trees.
I have watched the video again, I am very impressed with the control you have taking that huge top out, but.......
Why do you not have a back up rope when using that motorized ascender?
How much do you trust that machine?
I know you've got the manual ascender back up, but....
What happens if the machine goes berserk!.........chewing the rope up really quickly and snapping it through the manual back up ascender.
I think it would be a very wise move of you to introduce a back up life line on your ascents up these giant trees.
TC
Participating member
[ QUOTE ]
Graeme,
It looks like you are tied in side D to side D? Why are you tied in side D to side D is there not a risk that the top could split the stem and pull you in crushing your spine and internal organs?
It looks like you only have one form of attachment when making the final cut? A flipline of some kind. Why do you not use another backup lifeline?
Why do make the back cut like that following round fast? Why not come straight through at the back?
I could be mistaken with my first two questions ....just curious.
Thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
Anyone else seen this video? What do you all think am I wrong about my first 2 questions?
Graeme,
It looks like you are tied in side D to side D? Why are you tied in side D to side D is there not a risk that the top could split the stem and pull you in crushing your spine and internal organs?
It looks like you only have one form of attachment when making the final cut? A flipline of some kind. Why do you not use another backup lifeline?
Why do make the back cut like that following round fast? Why not come straight through at the back?
I could be mistaken with my first two questions ....just curious.
Thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
Anyone else seen this video? What do you all think am I wrong about my first 2 questions?
TC
Participating member
[ QUOTE ]
Graeme, please do not take this the wrong way.
I have watched the video again, I am very impressed with the control you have taking that huge top out, but.......
Why do you not have a back up rope when using that motorized ascender?
How much do you trust that machine?
I know you've got the manual ascender back up, but....
What happens if the machine goes berserk!.........chewing the rope up really quickly and snapping it through the manual back up ascender.
I think it would be a very wise move of you to introduce a back up life line on your ascents up these giant trees.
[/ QUOTE ]
Anyone else seen this video? Am I wrong about my concern?
Graeme, please do not take this the wrong way.
I have watched the video again, I am very impressed with the control you have taking that huge top out, but.......
Why do you not have a back up rope when using that motorized ascender?
How much do you trust that machine?
I know you've got the manual ascender back up, but....
What happens if the machine goes berserk!.........chewing the rope up really quickly and snapping it through the manual back up ascender.
I think it would be a very wise move of you to introduce a back up life line on your ascents up these giant trees.
[/ QUOTE ]
Anyone else seen this video? Am I wrong about my concern?
- Location
- Idaho, USA
Graeme - more questions.
I always do "corner cuts" when topping a tree, that is, cut in from the side, both sides of the notch, before doing the back cut, to make sure the hinge breaks clean, and doesn't hang on. The reason, of course, is that you want that top to land flat, not on end, especially if the tree is next to a building. Do you ever do corner cuts? Is it unnecessary with this brand of tree?
And, speaking of the top landing flat, do you pay attention to how wide the notch is? If it's too wide, the hinge will hold longer, and possibly cause the top to land tip first. I usually cut a fairly narrow notch, so the hinge breaks quicker, freeing the top, and allowing it to sail away from the base of the tree.
I always do "corner cuts" when topping a tree, that is, cut in from the side, both sides of the notch, before doing the back cut, to make sure the hinge breaks clean, and doesn't hang on. The reason, of course, is that you want that top to land flat, not on end, especially if the tree is next to a building. Do you ever do corner cuts? Is it unnecessary with this brand of tree?
And, speaking of the top landing flat, do you pay attention to how wide the notch is? If it's too wide, the hinge will hold longer, and possibly cause the top to land tip first. I usually cut a fairly narrow notch, so the hinge breaks quicker, freeing the top, and allowing it to sail away from the base of the tree.
- Location
- North of Boston
This is none of my business and I dont know this guy. Maybe he is comfy tieing in with one tie in point, and as far as his felling goes. Check out his posts in the Felling thread. He seems TOP NOTCH!
- Location
- Australia
grover
Looks are correct, I am attached side D to side D. It is the prefered points of attachment for spur climbing. Being attached in this fashion is an idependant event, to having the tree split. If the tree splits up, down, or both will dictate the potetial of injuries you outlined.
Whilst lowering the winch down, I do have one flipline. The remainder of the cutting is done with two fliplines. If you look closely, during the scarf they are seperate, one primary and the other looser and seperate (less chance of cutting both at once).
During the back cuts they are load shareing and difficalt to seperate (perfect). If I have to descend down quickly for some reason (!), I have one less thing to fumble with.
The cutting in the back you have noticed is just a simple back cut, broken into a couple of segments. The ash are a very "touchy" tree to fall, let alone cut one in half without chaining it.
What will be the far side of the cut to the finnish, is quarter cut first. This means I am not trying to guess what wood is left, when the pressure is on to chase off the near side. In addition this commences the tree to release toward the scarf. Before I scoot around the back and finnish the cut I will often push the nose of the bar further accross the back of the hinge and neutralise the wood that causes "barbers chair".
These trees are often a fine line between just slowly going the way you want, and "barbers chair", it has become a melding of felling techniques. Oh, and by the way, you can't back release these unless you chain in two places below the cut. A defect six feet below your position could unexpectedly let the whole show go before you are ready. That strap from below simply picks up your fliplines, choked off lifeline and happiness, and drags you all to the ground. Bother.
Graeme
Looks are correct, I am attached side D to side D. It is the prefered points of attachment for spur climbing. Being attached in this fashion is an idependant event, to having the tree split. If the tree splits up, down, or both will dictate the potetial of injuries you outlined.
Whilst lowering the winch down, I do have one flipline. The remainder of the cutting is done with two fliplines. If you look closely, during the scarf they are seperate, one primary and the other looser and seperate (less chance of cutting both at once).
During the back cuts they are load shareing and difficalt to seperate (perfect). If I have to descend down quickly for some reason (!), I have one less thing to fumble with.
The cutting in the back you have noticed is just a simple back cut, broken into a couple of segments. The ash are a very "touchy" tree to fall, let alone cut one in half without chaining it.
What will be the far side of the cut to the finnish, is quarter cut first. This means I am not trying to guess what wood is left, when the pressure is on to chase off the near side. In addition this commences the tree to release toward the scarf. Before I scoot around the back and finnish the cut I will often push the nose of the bar further accross the back of the hinge and neutralise the wood that causes "barbers chair".
These trees are often a fine line between just slowly going the way you want, and "barbers chair", it has become a melding of felling techniques. Oh, and by the way, you can't back release these unless you chain in two places below the cut. A defect six feet below your position could unexpectedly let the whole show go before you are ready. That strap from below simply picks up your fliplines, choked off lifeline and happiness, and drags you all to the ground. Bother.
Graeme
- Location
- Australia
fuelsguy1969
I see no increase in wear on the rope. The wear of running the rope over limbs, pulling up and down etc, far exceedes any detectable wear from the winch. I do only use the winch to gain the high point though. Its all down hill from there.
Graeme
I see no increase in wear on the rope. The wear of running the rope over limbs, pulling up and down etc, far exceedes any detectable wear from the winch. I do only use the winch to gain the high point though. Its all down hill from there.
Graeme
- Location
- Australia
grover
If you would want to use an additional rope, I think that is good for you. If I had concerns for the strength and integrity of the ropes I was useing for this purpose, I would increase the rope size or get out of climbing work.
As a way of comparing this, do you have one or two seatbelts / person in your vehicle? Single or double steering wheels? What happens if your vehicle goes "berserk" and takes off "munching" pedestrians and decides to drive into a tree? All jokes aside, when looking at the level of control and safety with the winch, I see the "risk" as reasonable.
The ascender you saw is an independant means of support to the winch. The winch is a mechanical device, that could fail in a number of ways. You must be sure that your "backup" will work. Mine does.
Graeme
If you would want to use an additional rope, I think that is good for you. If I had concerns for the strength and integrity of the ropes I was useing for this purpose, I would increase the rope size or get out of climbing work.
As a way of comparing this, do you have one or two seatbelts / person in your vehicle? Single or double steering wheels? What happens if your vehicle goes "berserk" and takes off "munching" pedestrians and decides to drive into a tree? All jokes aside, when looking at the level of control and safety with the winch, I see the "risk" as reasonable.
The ascender you saw is an independant means of support to the winch. The winch is a mechanical device, that could fail in a number of ways. You must be sure that your "backup" will work. Mine does.
Graeme
- Location
- Australia
olman60
I think you are describing "wing cuts". The are placed from either side of the hinge into the cambium, and reduce the 'bark tear". In the hard wood they are not used as this is the strongest part of the hinge. A tree with a small side lean will have a very high chance of breaking the hinge and going sieways.
To arrest the bark tear, we place the cuts a full diameter or so below the falling cuts. A tree with a side lean will need the cuts put much lower, or the wood will pull out from the wing cuts. You need to be prepared to spur down below your safety cuts to get below the action if needed. This is one situation where the introduction of, choked off safety lines does not work. Heavy side leaners, forget it.
Rerarding the clean departure of the crown. The hinge must be able to bend far enough as to either break or be comencing to break. I see that many falling courses say that the scarf must be x degrees. One rule doesn't apply to all.
Graeme
I think you are describing "wing cuts". The are placed from either side of the hinge into the cambium, and reduce the 'bark tear". In the hard wood they are not used as this is the strongest part of the hinge. A tree with a small side lean will have a very high chance of breaking the hinge and going sieways.
To arrest the bark tear, we place the cuts a full diameter or so below the falling cuts. A tree with a side lean will need the cuts put much lower, or the wood will pull out from the wing cuts. You need to be prepared to spur down below your safety cuts to get below the action if needed. This is one situation where the introduction of, choked off safety lines does not work. Heavy side leaners, forget it.
Rerarding the clean departure of the crown. The hinge must be able to bend far enough as to either break or be comencing to break. I see that many falling courses say that the scarf must be x degrees. One rule doesn't apply to all.
Graeme
- Location
- NSW, Australia
Cool video, would love to see more.
Graeme did the tree have much sway once the top came out, it didn t appear to in the video.
Graeme did the tree have much sway once the top came out, it didn t appear to in the video.
TreeCo
Carpal tunnel level member
Nice work Graeme.
Was that tree dead? Or is it just a thin barked species?
Was that tree dead? Or is it just a thin barked species?
- Location
- Austin, TX
Beautiful there in the Dandenongs. Clear to see that Graeme is a true professional and not a chancer. Oh, and a badass when it comes to TD's
I have heard the following said:
The book, "The Art and Science of Practical Rigging" was originally titled "Graeme and Friends."
Graeme once challenged Lance Armstrong in a "Who has more testicles?" contest. Graeme won by 5.
Faster than a speeding bullet ... more powerful than a locomotive ... able to leap tall buildings in a single bound... yes, these are some of Graeme's warm-up exercises.
Just joking... awesome vids Graeme!!!
I have heard the following said:
The book, "The Art and Science of Practical Rigging" was originally titled "Graeme and Friends."
Graeme once challenged Lance Armstrong in a "Who has more testicles?" contest. Graeme won by 5.
Faster than a speeding bullet ... more powerful than a locomotive ... able to leap tall buildings in a single bound... yes, these are some of Graeme's warm-up exercises.
Just joking... awesome vids Graeme!!!
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