snunyabizness
New member
- Location
- portland, oregon
any clever techniques to secure a heavy saw aloft? like suspenders with a typical saw lanyard, hanging if from a second bridge, or cinching it to the tree?
climbing with big saws
- Thread starter snunyabizness
- Start date
cody willard
Participating member
- Location
- Tulsa
I just recently bought a monkey beaver 2.0 with a 2.0 suspenders, it is probably the most ideal thing for large removals and a saw hanging off you.
I ran multiple different tree motions for well over a decade, and they are superior for pruning, however, heavy removals with a big old saw was not there best use.
I ran multiple different tree motions for well over a decade, and they are superior for pruning, however, heavy removals with a big old saw was not there best use.
might be a personal thing. i‘ve had every saw size hang off my treemotion light (with suspenders) no problem here..
climbingmonkey24
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- United States
Suspenders might help make you feel more comfortable and minimize the feeling of the saw pulling your saddle downward.
Using the tree to support its weight when you’re not actively using it might be helpful if the situation allows.
Assuming at this point you’re doing spar work, if you really were struggling with it you could always lower the saw to the ground with a rope and then pull it back up when you’re ready to use it again. A pulley on the tree or on you’re saddle will make this easier. It could get more tiring and more time consuming though doing it this way, not to mention you’d need to make sure anyone working with you below is aware of what you’re doing and that the area is clear for you to lower the saw without it getting hung up in debris.
Generally what I do with my Petzl Sequoia (no suspenders) is use a regular saw lanyard and connect it with a locked carabiner to the big saw with a webbing sling around the handle. Sometimes I’ll hook the lanyard to the webbing sling or attach it right to the handle. I use a secondary carabiner that’s on the webbing sling to hook the saw closer to my saddle if I don’t want to just let it hang.
Using the tree to support its weight when you’re not actively using it might be helpful if the situation allows.
Assuming at this point you’re doing spar work, if you really were struggling with it you could always lower the saw to the ground with a rope and then pull it back up when you’re ready to use it again. A pulley on the tree or on you’re saddle will make this easier. It could get more tiring and more time consuming though doing it this way, not to mention you’d need to make sure anyone working with you below is aware of what you’re doing and that the area is clear for you to lower the saw without it getting hung up in debris.
Generally what I do with my Petzl Sequoia (no suspenders) is use a regular saw lanyard and connect it with a locked carabiner to the big saw with a webbing sling around the handle. Sometimes I’ll hook the lanyard to the webbing sling or attach it right to the handle. I use a secondary carabiner that’s on the webbing sling to hook the saw closer to my saddle if I don’t want to just let it hang.
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RyanCafferky
Been here a while
- Location
- Hood River, Oregon
I just hang it on my saddle and try and get the work done efficiently and get out of the tree. I never wear suspenders.
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Same. MB 2 saddle, usually with a 500i 28". Sometimes I think "Oh, I'm going to have a big saw on for a while today, I should grab my suspenders out of the truck." and then I usually don't get around to it. So while they are a bit more comfortable and supportive to wear for me, it doesn't make a big difference in my experience at least. On the rare occasions I've got my 36" 661 on me, yah I'm putting my suspenders on.
ClimbingTN
Branched out member
- Location
- Columbia
I couldn’t even think of saws that big. I’ve hauled up my MS460/25 twice. My hat off to you!
RyanCafferky
Been here a while
- Location
- Hood River, Oregon
I have climbed with the 066 with a 32” bar more times than I can count. Last week we did a 56” fir and a 47” fir. I didn’t climb those but cutting with big saws aloft is pretty normal here in the PNW.
Very normal removal days start with a 14” Husky 542i with 14” bar for limbing and then Stihl 241 with 16” or 18” bar. Next comes the 500i with 28” bar. I can finish most trees with that but occasionally have to pull up the 500i with a 32” bar.
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Bendroctanus
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Springfield
I gotta say, I switched the bar on my ms660 to one of those Stihl light bars and it made a world of difference. It took chunking down a spar from agony to bearable. 36” bar too.
Yep, about the same saw size progression here in the San Juan Islands. Our forest was clear-cut ~100 years ago and grew back mostly at the same time, so we have a lot of tall skinny trees competing for space. It's actually pretty common to do a 100' doug fir with just a 16" 201T.... simply depends on how much light the tree grew with.
Stumpsprouts
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Asheville
This is a great tip, if you’re doing a crane job and you’re waiting for the ball to come back, rest it on the top of the spar. That’s typically when I would have a 36” something aloft for more than one cut.
In the past I’ve just kept the belt tight on my harness, no suspenders, grinned and beared it. Used only a saw as big as is required for the cut. But there've been a few oaks where I had a 880 for 3 or so spar cuts. Probably why my back is so tweaked. I’m not doing production climbing now though (until the next natural disaster strikes). And since transitioning (mtf) lifting up a 880 aloft was getting really hard.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Another trick in conifer country that makes for more cutting is, reserved for when the logs are going to be firewood is;
Cut the first round and keep the saw in the severed cut
Step down to position for the next cut
Wiggle the bar out of the first and start the next
Chain brake on after the bar is buried
Push off the first cut
Repeat ALL the way down.
This keeps the weight of the saw in the wood and all the climber does is lower it down 16-18”
Many time on a smaller crew this keeps everyone moving and over all is very efficient as one or two groundies will have a hard time keeping the drop zone clear.
Mick Dempsey!
Participating member
You’ve always seemed like a nice guy on the forums, original and funny.
But you haven’t transitioned from anything to anything, you’re an adult human male, you always will be.
You can sew a couple of floppy ears to the side of my head, it doesn’t make me a cocker spaniel, no matter if I say so or not.
Suspenders for sure. I keep a 4-5' lanyard for all non-top handled saws. I'm mostly found with an MS 261, and on occasion a 66 with a 36'' bar. I love the long lanyard. Keeps the 20'' bar on the 261 wieldy. Same with the 36''.
It's also great for hanging the saw on leaders or branches.
I'm often riding the ball and most times I'm cutting at a specific union on the tree. I leave the saw there, set slings, and rappel down for the cut. Besides the weight savings, it's a blessing to not drag the saw through foliage on the way back down.
It's also great for hanging the saw on leaders or branches.
I'm often riding the ball and most times I'm cutting at a specific union on the tree. I leave the saw there, set slings, and rappel down for the cut. Besides the weight savings, it's a blessing to not drag the saw through foliage on the way back down.
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
This really doesn't add anything relevant to the conversation.
Mick Dempsey!
Participating member
So ignore it.
Maybe Mick knows something we don't, but I'm pretty sure bringing a little ignorance and hate into the conversation ain't gonna make a 395 or 880 feel any lighter?
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Yep. My trusty TM s. light holds a big saw as well as any saddle I have ever flown..
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