climbing with a chainsaw

russelltree

russelltree

Location
New Sealand
I'm wondering, while climbing with a chainsaw, is it best to keep your chainsaw lanyard attached to your climbing belt while making a cut or to detach the lanyard from your belt? At one time I thought that it was best to keep the lanyard fastened to your climbing belt so that if the saw were dropped or pulled from your grip it would not fly towards the ground and potentially bounce towards someone below. But recently I've been thinking that if it were to drop, or worse, be pulled from your grip, caught in the kerf of a large log falling toward the ground, I would prefer the saw go with it rather that being attached to my climbing belt. Is this why some rope snaps incorporated into chainsaw lanyards are made of brass and angled to almost "peel" open under a heavy enough load? Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated. I am currently using the chainsaw aloft while attached to my climbing belt but wonder if there are occasions when I should be detaching the lanyard from my belt.
Thanks, Russell VanWijngaarden
 
I just ordered a break-away lanyard ( the one mentioned in the thread) for the safety element. I have a lanyard now that I made of webbing. Two times I have droped my saw while aloft and I was not happy about it! Once it fell and damaged a shed roof and once I unintentioanlly removed the wrong caribiner and the saw droped into the irrigation canal I was working over. I am embarassed that these event ever occured but I write this to say that it is always better to have the saw under your control while in the tree. I paid for the roof repair and sat out while my saw dried from its swim. I always check that lanyard now and use a screw lock caribiner to attatch it to my saddle. I look forward to having the break-away bungee lanyard so I know I am safe and the lanyard is out of my way when not in use. I do recall that the break-away is not for use with big saws (over 15 lbs. I think?)
 
I use regular webbing in the breakaway configuration (may make one with the bungee added someday) and use the 99 c. key biners from big box stores for the "fusible link." They are rated to break at 150 lb., about the same as the tearaway.

Keith
 
I climb with a standard chainsaw strop and only take it off if i think there is a risk.
Most of the time its pretty obvious if theres a likely hood of getting a snatch, i just rely on common sense
 
forgot to mention, i did have a buckingham break away lanyard. it came apart on its first climb when i had to drop my saw, wasn't impressed
 
Did you send it back? This seemed like a good idea but maybe the breaking strength is too low. I guess the keychain carabiner might be the way to go. I was looking forward to the bungee effedt too. In order to get the length out of my webbing for good cutting reach it get in the way while climbing sometimes. Anyone got any bright ideas?
P.S. Isn't anyone going to make fun of me for dropping my saw in the drink?
 
I'm not going to make fun of you for dropping a saw. Any climber with a few years in the saddle has dropped a saw or two.

The last time I dropped a saw was about a year ago. Had a brand new Echo 340, about 8-10 days old. Was trimming several palm trees in a residential back yard around a pool, surrounded by a 6' block wall. On one of the palms, a rat jumped out and landed on my right arm and then ran down my shoulder and back. Needless to say, the saw went flying as I recoiled from the critter on my arm. It bounced off the top of the wall and landed in the neighbor's yard, still running.

I normally do not use a long lanyard on my top handle saw. I do use a loop runner to tie off my ported 346XP when I bring it up though. Since I'm only using it on larger wood, it's nice knowing it won't hit the ground if it happens to slip out of my hand. Not a perfect solution, but it works for me.

Use what works for you. If you tend to make 'saw snatchers' when cutting big limbs, then use a break-away. I usually do not jump off big leads, but have found how to reduce the 'saw snatchers' when I do. Just make your top cut slightly behind your undercut instead of in front of it.
 
However you configure your break away it makes the most sense to me to have the breaking link on the end towards the saddle. That way the lanyard goes with the saw and doesn't snap back in a whipping action to hurt the climber.

I've used keychain biners and brass snaps on lanyards that I've sewn myself.

Tom
 
I would never climb without a saw lanyard, but I know a guy who did once, let's call him "Mike".
Anyway, Mike was removing a big old willow over the lake shore and a limb grabbed his saw, pulled it out of his hand and took it down into the lake, still running.
It was interesting because it ran under water for a second or two. Sure sounded funny, gurgling and bubbling.
After draining the water and dead fish out of it, it ran fine.
 
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