Climber killed by bees

Nor do I wish to digress. I think that one of the best ways to avoid negative interactions with potentially dangerous organisms, is to try to understand their modus operandi and how they respond to various stimuli. I wouldn’t presume to tell the family of the victim anything other than of my sorrow for their loss.

My interest Is solely to better inform people reading this forum on aspects of the day to day life of bee colonies, of which they may not be aware, so that they can incorporate a greater knowledge of colony behavior into their site safety management protocols.
The most dangerous time is at the end of a nectar flow. The larger the flow, and the faster the end of said nectar flow, the more aggressive. Probably have to speak to a local expert beekeeper to find out this information as its pretty area specific. This is assumed to be because the high nectar flow encourages increase in hive numbers, and the sudden end leaves a large number opf bees with nothing to do and they become very agitated.

Another trick to remember is to try to move at the same pace or slower as passive bees fly, as they are also geared to repel aggressors using rapid movement - I am not saying this is easy when bees attack but its something to keep in mind...
 
Nor do I wish to digress. I think that one of the best ways to avoid negative interactions with potentially dangerous organisms, is to try to understand their modus operandi and how they respond to various stimuli. I wouldn’t presume to tell the family of the victim anything other than of my sorrow for their loss.

My interest Is solely to better inform people reading this forum on aspects of the day to day life of bee colonies, of which they may not be aware, so that they can incorporate a greater knowledge of colony behavior into their site safety management protoc

The most dangerous time is at the end of a nectar flow. The larger the flow, and the faster the end of said nectar flow, the more aggressive. Probably have to speak to a local expert beekeeper to find out this information as its pretty area specific. This is assumed to be because the high nectar flow encourages increase in hive numbers, and the sudden end leaves a large number opf bees with nothing to do and they become very agitated.

Another trick to remember is to try to move at the same pace or slower as passive bees fly, as they are also geared to repel aggressors using rapid movement - I am not saying this is easy when bees attack but its something to keep in mind...
Have kept bees for over 30 years. Am forest climber, lanyard thrower in PNW. Have been stung by several species of "bees" not all at ground level in my over 40 years of woods work. If I was an in town arborist I would carry a bee suit on board with zippered legs so one could put on quick with work boots on. Also have number of a local bee keeper that is not afraid of heights. If possible have someone close entrance hole in tree at night with #7 screen/staple gun. Prevention beats trying to lower an unconscious climber. Quality binoculars are worth every penny. Can use for night sky and bird watching, can see 3 moons of Jupiter with mine. Cheap entertainment. With Sun behind back survey tree for bee activity. If bees are detected put the bee suit on and proceed accordingly. Have role of duct tape to tape off legs and arms so the highly aggressive bees will not get inside suit. Have run into some aggressive colonies. Smelling like chainsaw gas/bar oil makes bees more aggressive. Being harassed by bears makes bees defensive or maybe just genetics. We are talking honey bees here. Yellow Jackets, bald faced hornets, black hornets, all make one stay on there toes. With the warming winters in the gulf states and no Winter die off yellow jacket nests have been observed over 12 square feet. Moral of story is beeware.
 
Great input, Larry.

I got a silver maple I have to prune/ remove deadwood for a friend, went there to do it in July, got about 20’ up and honey bees started buzzing around me, and I saw the little cavity they were coming in and out of. I don’t know if they behave like this, but it almost seemed like they were warning me and trying to make their presence known. I bailed and told my friend he can try calling one of the folks that will come collect them, but expect nobody to take the gig because of the height. I’ll be back in October/ November or whenever we’re into the low temps. My friend just wants the tree trimmed, the honey bees are welcome to stay.
 
Natural selection has done a good job with bee behavior. That loud, aggresive behavior does a good job of discouraging most animals from stealing the honey stash. It is reinforced by the less obvious benefit to the bees themselves... a bee that successfully scares off a raccoon doesn't get eaten by the raccoon during its raid on the hive, and the whole hive benefits by not having their numbers reduced at a time when they need to be high.

I've always been fascinated by the simplistic, yet efficient behavior of social insects. Still, when I hear that loud buzzing, I run like a frightened schoolgirl with a rabid dog on her ass.
 
It's not how aggressive they are. Bees are never aggressive. Their defensive nature can be misinterpreted as aggression, when in reality, they have misidentified an unwitting intruder as a threat. Whether the bees are of European or Africanized descent, they will both keep a specific defensive perimeter sphere around their colonies. Africanized strains of honeybees evolved with animals like honey badgers attacking their colonies. Because of this, they have to be much more defensive than European honeybees, and must project a greater defensive perimeter in order to deter and repel a threat before it actually makes it close enough to the colony to attack it.

If you stand around a bee colony after being stung, you will be infused with alarm pheromone which is left by each bee as it stings. You will literally become a "marked man" That pheromone instructs any other bee in the area to sting you until you either move out of their defensive perimeter....or stop moving. The more bees that sting you, the stronger the pheromone deposit becomes on you. Alternatively, if you're just moving into their defensive sphere, bees will sometimes "bump" you. If this happens, go back the way you came to a safe distance, and re-evaluate your work area before proceeding. Bees don't like to sting if they don't have to, as it can cause a massive loss of colony workers once that first sting occurs. They will often times try more peaceful means to let you know that you're in their territory and that they'd like for you to leave, without stinging.

Africanized honeybees in the US, tend to be an over-exaggerated phenomenon. Any disturbed colony will become hot and agitated and will begin a stinging defense that quickly escalates. Once a colony launches its defense, there are going to be thousands of bees involved and they will all have one interest, to drive away the intruder. The difference between Africanized and European honeybees lies in the distance they will pursue a perceived threat to drive it away from their colony. A European colony won't have to launch as serious a defense against say, a raccoon, as an Africanized colony would against the aforementioned honey badger

It can help to understand the motivation of bees as regards their defensive stinging. They will only sting in order to protect their home/goods/children against home invaders, as you would likely do if you felt your home was being invaded with malicious intent. Other than that, an individual bee out foraging is unlikely to feel motivated to sting when away from the colony, unless stepped upon, or caught and harassed.

It can be helpful to understand what bees require in the way of habitat. They need a sheltered enclosure with sufficient volume to allow for nursery comb and additional comb for pollen and honey storage. If you think of the size of a couple bee boxes stacked on top of each other, that's the minimum volume required for a viable colony to establish. Bees will also prefer a void which is accessed by a smaller hole as the smaller the entrance, the more easily it can be defended by guard bees in the colony. Because of this volume requirement, feral bee colonies will tend to be located in voids in trunks or larger stems, although sometimes a colony will outgrow that space and expand so that it hangs pendulous from limbs in the canopy. As those colonies are more exposed, they will be less tolerant of the approach of a potential intruder.

A pair of field glasses can help a great deal in identifying bees and other sources of elevated risk in a tree canopy. I heard the late and very great Bruce Smith refer to a pair of field glasses as "a poor man's bucket truck". Another tip he gave, was to hold the power head of a running chainsaw against the trunk of a tree and rev it a few times during the initial pre-climb inspection, before anything is set up. If there are bees in that tree, those transmitted vibrations will induce them to come out to see what's going on, and you will have an opportunity to vacate the area unscathed.

Most of the animals which attack bee colonies and feed upon larvae have dark colored pelts like bears, so it can be helpful to wear lighter colored clothes when working in trees during active bee season. This is why beekeepers jackets and suits are made of white material.

Stay safe everyone!
Superb post, if we understand the behaviors of the various species of stinging insects found in trees we have a much better chance of not getting into trouble in the first place.

I've been "bumped" by honey bees, did not realize it was an intentional warning. It did get my attention and I did move back so their strategy works (no surprise) to warn an intruder off.
-AJ
 

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