Chris Sharma Free Climbs a Giant Redwood Tree

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Chris Sharma Free Climbs a Giant Redwood Tree

The accomplished rock climber returns to his roots (no pun intended) on an old-growth sequoia.

chris-sharma-redwood-climb.jpg


© Keith Ladzinski/Red Bull Content Pool
DATE16 June 2015AUTHORAndrew Bisharat

Like most kids, Chris Sharma grew up climbing trees. Born and raised in Santa Cruz, California, Sharma’s earliest climbing experiences involved scaling the limbs of trees in his parents’ backyard.

In 1992, a 12-year-old Sharma traded trees for both indoor and outdoor rock climbing when he discovered the sport in one of the earliest indoor climbing gyms in the U.S. He quickly went on to be recognized as one of the best rock climbers in the world, winning both national and international climbing competitions as a teen, and ultimately pushing global standards into the realm of climbs rated at 5.15. (For a primer on climbing grades and terminology, click here.)

His iconic first ascents of routes named Realization (5.15a) and Jumbo Love (5.15b) were the first of those respective grades in the world and milestone achievements in the sport of rock climbing.

Watch him climb a giant redwood in the video player above.

One move at a time© Keith Ladzinski/Red Bull Content Pool
Since 2006, Sharma has chosen to live in Catalunya, Spain, for its wealth of extremely difficult sport climbs. The infamous limestone of this region is very tall, very steep and very blank, all of which lends itself to 5.15-and-harder climbing.

The limestone is also known to present itself as “tufas,” vertical formations of rock created thousands of years ago by mineral deposits left from seeping water. Tufas, which look like vertical columns protruding from the rock face, lend themselves to excellent free climbing as the climber can pinch and squeeze the tufa with his hands and feet.

“After living in Spain and climbing on tufas there, I came back home and looked up at the bark of these famous giant redwoods of California,” Sharma said. “And I imagined I was looking up at these huge walls of tufas. I started thinking, 'How cool would that be?'”

Would it be possible to free climb — that is, to use only one’s hands and feet and no additional tree-climbing aids such as spurs — up the sheer side of a giant redwood?


Chris Sharma on his way up© Keith Ladzinski/Red Bull Content Pool
“For me, climbing has always been about reconnecting to that playful side,” he said. “It can be so serious. You put your heart and soul into a hard rock project. But it’s also good to take a step back and remember that this is supposed to be about having fun.”

Sharma, working with a team at Red Bull, reached out to Dr. Anthony Ambrose and Wendy Baxter, two research scientists and redwood-tree experts from the University of California, Berkeley, to see if this project would even be possible. Part of their research demands that Ambrose and Baxter be versed in rigging tactics and techniques in order to collect the samples they need from tree canopies without disturbing the ecology. Ambrose and Baxter also have backgrounds as enthusiast rock climbers, so they were excited about the idea of working with Sharma — if dubious that his goal would be possible.

“I admit, I was pretty skeptical,” Baxter said.

“I’ve never seen or heard of anybody trying to actually free climb up the bark of a redwood,” Ambrose said. “I didn’t think it would be possible, not because I doubted Chris’ abilities, but because I wasn’t sure the bark would support his weight.”


RELATED STORY
The Science Behind Chris Sharma's Redwood Climb

For this project, permits were secured from Eureka city officials and the Humboldt County Film Commission. And the team chose a location with a pre-existing network of well-traveled trails. Now all that was left was choosing the right line.

Sharma found the line: a 77-meter tree (just over 252 feet), with 50 meters of pure bark before reaching the first branch. Slightly overhanging. And a relatively clean, aesthetic trunk.

“The specific tree Chris chose was good because it was fire-scarred,” said Ambrose, who estimated the tree to be around 600 or 700 years old. “It didn’t have a lot of lichen and moss growing on the trunk. And the bark was solid. But because of that, the fissures and grooves in the bark weren’t that deep. It was also overhanging. It made the climb hard for him. He was getting pumped!”


Chris Sharma climbs a giant redwood© Keith Ladzinski/Red Bull Content Pool
Over three days, Sharma worked his project, which he named “Jumbo Wood,” on top rope. “It was straight-up real climbing,” he says. “Probably at least 9a!”

Sharma found it difficult to remember the beta (information about the climb, including where the best hand and foot holds were). “It’s so overwhelming," he said. "As rock climbers, we’re trained to look at cliffs and see the sequence. On the redwood, I drew a blank. I got disoriented by all the patterns. There was definitely a very specific sequence.”

Sharma placed tiny chalk tick marks on the best bark hand holds — which would all be gone the following day due to the dense cloud of Humboldt fog that would descend upon the forest each morning.

“The first 50 feet were really sustained,” he said. “Good pinches and good foot jams between the bark. Then the foot holds ran out, and it was just pure compression moves with really precise foot jams.”

“I was really impressed that he was able to do all the moves and sequences,” Ambrose said. “He was definitely working for it.”




RELATED STORY
Photos: Rock Climber Ascends a Giant Redwood Tree

Ultimately, Sharma wasn’t able to redpoint (complete the full route in one go after practicing it] Jumbo Wood. But to him, that wasn’t the point.

“This wasn’t about serious redpointing. And it’s not like I’m going to give up rock climbing and just focus on redwoods now,” Sharma said, laughing. “It’s just such a random thing. It’s easy to take rock climbing too seriously. And for me, it’s good to step back from all that and just go climbing, have fun with it and feel like a kid again.”

Watch Chris Sharma’s Giant Ascent on YouTube and Red Bull will donate $.10 for each unique view of the video, up to a maximum of $10,000, to help continue redwood tree research.
 
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Wac !
This is my backyard and these self righteous "scientists" are as lame as they come. This guys climb is cool but the whole " we're biologists so it's our duty but no one else should ever climb these magnificent beings under any circumstances" crowd can de salt some cacahuates. I've lived in and around HSU for 16 yrs and that place pumps out more bs than a than Harris Ranch steer farm. Bunch of stoners and hippycrites. Lame self promoting and the absolute opposite of what is needed in this area
 
Wac !
This is my backyard and these self righteous "scientists" are as lame as they come. This guys climb is cool but the whole " we're biologists so it's our duty but no one else should ever climb these magnificent beings under any circumstances" crowd can de salt some cacahuates. I've lived in and around HSU for 16 yrs and that place pumps out more bs than a than Harris Ranch steer farm. Bunch of stoners and hippycrites. Lame self promoting and the absolute opposite of what is needed in this area

There was some self promotion with the video.

And others probably can climb safely under certain circumstances.

As far that the playing field ... anybody who jumps the same hurdles and fills the same paperwork can qualify to climb them (legally).
 
One of my concerns are these hoops and hurdles. Living here I decided I should contact Steve sillet about my interest in old growth and climbing. Unfortunately when I navigated the university web site to his page he very explicitly states not to contact him about climbing and is self righteous enough to also state no one besides a " trained biologist" should ever climb old growth. Seriously? Wtf? I'm a fisherman by trade and have also work with DFG in the past and can factually say that most of the biologist are capable of nothing more than regurgitating whatever their professors told them, if they can even keep that straight. I'm not some right wing science denying kook, but to have some over educated bully tell me I can't climb trees without jumping hoops is not sitting well with me. Apologies for being all ranty but these holier than thou folks make my hair stand up
 
One of my concerns are these hoops and hurdles. Living here I decided I should contact Steve sillet about my interest in old growth and climbing. Unfortunately when I navigated the university web site to his page he very explicitly states not to contact him about climbing and is self righteous enough to also state no one besides a " trained biologist" should ever climb old growth. Seriously? Wtf? I'm a fisherman by trade and have also work with DFG in the past and can factually say that most of the biologist are capable of nothing more than regurgitating whatever their professors told them, if they can even keep that straight. I'm not some right wing science denying kook, but to have some over educated bully tell me I can't climb trees without jumping hoops is not sitting well with me. Apologies for being all ranty but these holier than thou folks make my hair stand up

So you have apparently seen the entry level requirements.

The researchers have to get permits. And they have to list who is climbing with them. If they are rigging trees with computers, sensors and doing other advanced calculations, it makes sense that the typical candidate for climbing with have some form or advanced education in mathematics, forest sciences, etc..

If people have the qualifications, they should have a chance for permit research climbing. On the other hand, even the researchers are having trouble getting all the permits they apply for. So I see little reason for them to invite everybody who thinks they ought to be climbing, at the risk of undermining an entire climbing team, and their permit application process.

If there are a half dozen or dozen that already know how to work as a team, including safety, procedures and communication, I see no reason for them to invite others simply for the sake of inviting others.

The "gatekeepers" to the permits are actually the parks administration, and I can tell by your replies you don't really understand the complete reasoning behind Sillett's choices.

Steve is not necessarily and easy man ... but I find him fairly reasonable. We have disagreed on a few points, but I still hear him out and also realize that he listens.
 
Not interested in an invitation. Just don't like pompous preacher types. I have my view and respect you have yours. I don't like people trashing our wild places and have probably collected more garbage than the hobby weekend cleanup crews in my area just because its the right thing to do. Wouldnt ever ask permission, because their authority is false, and I'm not writing a paper to be recognized
 
Probably a court date, unless some power tripper wants to make an example. My guess would be unless the tree is harmed the judge would have a laugh as well as everyone else in the courtroom and dismiss.
Who knows though, we certainly live in strange times. Politicians, corporations, and police can get off Scott free with absolutely anything in most instances, laughing in the face of justice.

Laws are for poor people, and those who are not implements of the government, wealthy and powerful
 
Hi Flex. We have never met, but I am a researcher and an avid tree climber. I can relate to your frustration with dealing with the tree bureaucracy and some of the large egos involved in climbing in the redwoods. However, at the risk of sounding like a pompous preacher, my observation about us humans is that we tend to love things to death, and I do worry that this applies to big trees as well as the many other amazing species that share our planet. I have no easy solution for this problem except to ask that all of my fellow climbers use good judgment when deciding if and where to climb, and that we all try our best to tread lightly when in the trees. Use your limbsavers and try to minimize damage to moss, lichens, and other sensitive structures. Ok, enough preaching, I am going to go climb a tree just to get high.
 
Right on Arlo,
I'm with you on the best practices. The only old growth climbing I've done is Srt. Point I'm trying to make is I honestly question the climbing impact of the researchers. Their climbing is no more developed than a experienced arborist who uses current technique. Rather likely they are a step or two behind as they may not have the same incentives to remain as up to date as an arborist. I would be ok with with a discussion about lowest possible impact but the "do as I say, not as I do" gets no one anywhere with me.
What tree research are you doing?
Seed collection?
How do you climb?
Please continue this discussion
 
I spent most of my career doing research on spotted owls and red tree voles. But I have also advised grad students and colleagues who worked on many other topics, including barred owls, great-gray owls, pygmy owls, goshawks, and needle chemistry of Douglas-fir. For the last few years I have spent most of my time studying tree voles in Oregon, including studies of behavior, water consumption, distribution, and habitat.

My climbing methods have changed greatly over the years. When I first started climbing raptor nests in 1966 I did mainly spurs. In 1972 I began to use SRT for climbing big trees, but continued to use spurs for smaller trees. In more recent years I have switched entirely to SRT and DdRT in big trees because it does less damage to the tree and is easier than spur climbing. But I still use spurs in small conifers when we need to climb large numbers of trees really fast. I know that is blasphemy to most arborists (and to many researchers as well), but I do it because it is efficient. So, I am not setting myself up as some kind of saint when it comes to leaving no trace.

For the last 3 years I have been teaching a tree climbing class to students at Oregon State University and that has led me to think a lot about tree climbing ethics and has also forced me to try to learn as much as I can about the most current methods that people are using for tree climbing. That is why I have become a shameless gear junkie and can frequently be found skulking about in the Tree Buzz Forums. I am always looking for better ways to do things, and am frequently able to glean little nuggets from amongst the chatter.

And once in a while I come across a thread like yours that makes me worry that we scientists will turn off some of our most ardent supporters if we act like we are the only ones who deserve to experience firsthand the amazing world up there in the canopy. That is the last thing I want to happen because I think one of the best things we can do to get people excited about protecting their forests is to take them to the top of a big tree and let them see firsthand the things that go on high above the ground. It is an experience they will never forget.
 
i live in northern california and work in southern oregon. i would love to meet up and climb or hang out and talk climbing. i may not be a graduate student but ive taken botany and zoology when i was younger and have a lifelong interest in nature, maybe i could lend a hand sometime and you could show me what you do.
i got the gear junkie habit as well, not like smashdown ben, but its always fun to do a show and tell with the shiny stuff.

it would be fantastic to check it out from your point of view
 
ARLO
That would be excellent. I look forward to our eventual meeting. In the meantime take care and keep everyone up to date on what your doing if you can and don't mind. At least those of us who love nature too!
 

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