Chip Truck Question

ROYCE

ROYCE

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Vermont
So, Been looking into buying a used chip truck. Found a few locally. One is a top kick with 150k miles and all set up for tree work. Has tool boxes, has a 15 or so yard box. Truck body is in real good shape, but body of chip box could use a little work, nothing too major, it still looks really good.
My question is, what do you look at when you go and look at chip trucks? I mean, how do you really look the truck over, so you know your not getting a raw deal? Bring a mechanic along with me?
I know there will be small issues that will arise, and will need to be fixed. My fear is buying a truck to bring it home and find out after a month that it needs a new transmission or engine, or something else really costly.
Any help would be great.
 
Duramax diesel? Those injectors are made for 100k miles and cost $600 a piece...plus labor to replace. They're a real pita. Anymore it seems that the truck becomes too expensive to keep before the chip body is completely gone. Problem is...a pressure washer can hide some moderately expensive fixes. Wash it and park it. After a few thousand miles...here come the leaks again. Good luck.
 
Has a cat engine. So I guess your saying, there is no good way to ever know what your buying, when your buying used.
 
Big trucks cost money. I have been working on that truck i told you about it should be ready in a week or so. Think cheap to fix and cheap to buy on your first purchase. Cause unless you are going to pay 40k for a nice chip truck, then your going to have to fix a couple of things eventually. It helps when you budget to charge yourself a small rental fee per piece of equipment so you have the cash saved up when something does go down or maintenance needs to happen.
 
I think you can get a pretty decent chip truck for $12-$15K easy. So you might have an issue here or there but dealing with that can be a great learning experience. The majority of us have become back yard mechanics from this biz.

2 weeks ago Caterpillar wanted $587 for a freaking starter for my skidsteer. $90 new, free shipping on eBay.

Last week Bandit wanted $180 for a thermostat housing on my 200xp. But they gave me the part #. $13 - parts store.

No matter what you get you'll be fixing something on it. Do your research and you'll be good.
 
Ask to get engine oil sample. My last used truck the owner let me take two, over a period. They can tell you whats going on inside based off any wear metals, or objects found in the oil. I use Blackstone labs for my samples. Besides, a cat engine, or any engine, will cost over 10k to replace.

Also, i would look for the most original you can get. I wouldn't buy a truck with a billion new parts on it, rode hard and probably want crazy money because they think since they had to dump money into the pos its worth more. Its only worth what it is...

Id spend my most on a truck. I did when starting out and did minimal repairs over 7 years, and basically sold it for what i originally paid.
 
my first chip truck was on the smaller side and i think this is a good way to go. smaller trucks are cheaper to run, title and have smaller problems. when your business gets big, get a bigger truck. what we lacked in chip capacity we would use a contract logger for only 300 a load to pick up our wood.
 
I always take my mechanic with me when we look at used equipment. I know this isnt a sure thing but they will spot the obvious that the average guy might miss and save you from buying a money pit, brakes, tire wear that might show signs of a bad front end, botched wiring, broken springs or hangers, etc, etc. Try to cover as much as you can before handing over the check. Not sure about your state but here any vehicle being used for commercial use needs a goverment safety inspection before the new owner can register and insure it, if its required in your state ask the seller to do this for you before you buy it. If owner refuses than youll know it isnt worth buying.

Just 2cents

Ben
Bushwacker Tree
 
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my first chip truck was on the smaller side and i think this is a good way to go. smaller trucks are cheaper to run, title and have smaller problems. when your business gets big, get a bigger truck. what we lacked in chip capacity we would use a contract logger for only 300 a load to pick up our wood.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree, I have been giving it a lot of thought and believe that a smaller truck might work real well to start. Plus, when I upgrade, the old chip truck can pull my skid steer.
Is a one ton too light weight for tree work. Will be pulling a bandit 150?
 
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i know a guy that does real well with an F-350. My first was an F-450 which i thought was a little light. I think a 550 would be ideal.

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X 2. Anything less than 550...5500... is asking for trouble.
 
Be aware that if you get something over CDL and ultimately have employees, you're in for an extra headache. There are trucks out there that can get the job done under CDL. It's all about wheelbase, gearing and GVWR. I find that some trucks are rated through the roof unnecessarily.

-Tom
 
Yeah Tom, I am steering clear of CDL trucks. They cause way too much hassle with the extra work, drug testing, finding workers with the proper license. I might go that route someday, but for now I am trying to avoid it.

Yeah, I would like to get a 550, but the price has been kinda high on them around me. I will keep looking.
 
I found an F550 up in new hampshire this spring. It was an 03 with less than 100k on it with the 7.3turbo in it. It has been an awesome truck, when i bought it i got an extended warranty through a nation wide company that is a branch of travelers. it covers the engine/drivetrain/mechanical elements aside from wear and tear for 25 months or 25k miles for 'only' an extra 2500 and when compared to some repairs that might come up, it made sense. it is nice knowing that the huge repairs will be covered allowing me to focus on graduating from college and growing my business.


here is the link to the dealership i went through:

http://www.dieselworldnh.com/

-Steven
 
I will say that I've always wanted a smaller truck/chipper combo for our downtown clients. They've got a lot of money to spend, but tree companies don't want to bring their standard setups because the downtown area is so tight. Just finding parking can be a nightmare. For that area, a smaller set up would be nice.

For the ordinary every day set up, 550 or more. Depends on chip box size though. Don't think you need to worry about CDL since there's no bucket involved.
 
My F550 is the 17,500lb gwv chassis with a 12' dump body. with the chip box i built i have over 20 yards of capacity. I will say it though, the turning radius isnt the greatest, an international chiptruck i drive has a tighter radius even though its about the same length axle to axle.

Steve
 
99-03 f550 7.3 4x4 standard trans.
Build your box!

Beware about towing anything other then a chipper under 10k.
If trucks gvwr is 18k , an 8k trailer empty would require cdl.

I have two diesel f350s single rear wheel one tons for towing our 12k dump trailer/box.
My f700 chip truck is a 1994 with a cummins 5.9 and arbor tech body,
Scored it for $4200 on a no reserve auctio. Thing hauls smooth and straight. Ex Lewis fleet truck.
 
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Beware about towing anything other then a chipper under 10k.
If trucks gvwr is 18k , an 8k trailer empty would require CDL.

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Not true... This only applies to trailers over 10K. An under 10K trailer can be towed by anything under CDL without needing it. It's the trailer that sets the requirement. For instance, I have a 15k trailer... I can tow it with anything under 11K without a CDL.

Single vehicle over 26 K = class B
Towed vehicle over 10K, combined weight over 26K = class A

Tom
 
Royce what's the tranny in it? I've run chevy's for 15+ years. We've had cat engines run for 200k before any major issues.
To further tom's point above; DOT only cares about GVWR, even empty if the ratings combine to over 26k it's CDL when you're commercial.
 
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