chinook hitch

snunyabizness

New member
Location
portland, oregon
Several months ago I stumbled across the twin rope climbing technique (TRT) and wanted to master some of the concepts using the gear I already own without purchasing any specialized equipment, so that I would have effective methods to work certain scenarios (like failed or dead trees), but using only the gear I already pack around daily. I typically climb on an akimbo or a basic prussik and my style is to descend wide open.

Mechanical devices are mostly designed for 1/2" rope and I don't have or want 300' of 8mm rope. Dual rope wrenches seemed like a viable option, but that was just pure frustration. This led to a distraction searching for SRT capable climbing hitches and a seemingly endless rabbit hole trying to develop an understanding of how/why textile hitches work on DDRT but not SRT. I found some purist hitches that use cordage only and technically can be used to ascend/descend a static rope for tree hunting or mountaineering, but impractical for continuous/extended use in the context tree work. I found a couple of hitches that combine cordage & rigging rings but are difficult to tend, twist up twin ropes into hockles, and burn up prussik cords.

With some experimentation, I found a configuration that seems to work OK.. not perfect or ideal, but usable. Not totally certain, but I think this is unique and so wanted to share with the community. In my limited testing climbing for a few hours SRT in the backyard elm, it seems to be usable using 11.7mm yale blue moon, 30" epicord 8mm, hitch climber eccentric, a carabiner, and two 28mm dmm alloy rings.

This hitch is inspired by https://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/sticht-hitch.40355/ and https://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/the-hrk.12240/ and the bachmann hitch. Huge shout out to @Brocky for the wealth of information shared, you are THE MAN.

I'm in the PNW and so figured naming it the chinook hitch would be appropriate. Please set me straight if this name has been used or this hitch has been done before.

It starts with a clove hitch through the rings with one leg of the prussik passing in front of the climb line and one behind, followed by an immediate reverse and sort of a vt braid around the line ending with an overhand. The hitch climber spine is necessary to keep the sewn eyes oriented and preventing an untwisting effect as it sets in under weight. This causes the rings to clamp down on the rope and there is minimal wear on the prussic far as I can observer during my afternoon of testing. The anodizing on the rings has worn off a bit. I weigh 185lbs with no gear and can freefall bomb on it and it grabs every time, and it tends alright. I have no idea how to tune it, maybe longer prussik core or different size rings. Enjoy.
 

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You’re on to a solution

I’m about ‘05 I spent a spring to fall climbing season trying to find a rope/hitch combo to ascend/descend. Nothing was working and winter came so less climbing. While thinking of the next step in the search I thought that something like a Bachmann would give some ‘slippery friction’

My experiments stopped when I met Morgan and his Unicender. The rest is history!

Have you tried using different ropes and cordage? Have other climbers used it?
 
I like the clamping action of the rings instead of the squeezing of the usual wraps, steel rings would take the wear better. I took your clamping top and added the ring and twist of the Sticht to make it easier to release, the tending was a struggle though.
 
Not bad! I like the idea. Worked decent for some practice climbs in the yard. Too much sit back for me to use as a primary but gonna try it on my lanyard this week for work. I like that you can use it with the HC pulley, sticht doesn’t work well with it. I primarily choke my lanyard off these days but will often MRS lanyard to advance, HC makes it nice and clean. Descent was very smooth and quick, tending was a little wonky. I just use a stopper knot, no eyes. 8mm marlow viper. Not really adjustable, it seemed there was a sweet spot. Nice hitch, just wish it was a tad shorter!
 
634DB496-9180-4D11-9EFA-9EE6881CA4E6.jpegI threaded the cord to make four points of contact on the ring which keeps them parallel and added the bottom part of Sticht. More compact, easy release and tending. The use of three rings made Circus the obvious choice for a name, so I just registered a patent on the Circus Chinook Hitch.
 
judging by the amount of metal contact have you tried a quick descent to see if this is hard on hitch cord?
View attachment 80661I threaded the cord to make four points of contact on the ring which keeps them parallel and added the bottom part of Sticht. More compact, easy release and tending. The use of three rings made Circus the obvious choice for a name, so I just registered a patent on the Circus Chinook Hitch.
 
@Brocky how about some videos of hitch tying?
I’m more Fred Flintstone than George Jetson, I’ll get a piece a rock out and chisel a picture. After more testing, the amount of friction the ring makes can be adjusted by sliding the cord around the ring. Pushing the loops up causes more friction, down, the easier to tend and descend. With the three moveable loops at the top, it acts like a parking break with the amount of friction produced.

The rings take the friction the wraps would normally experience, there is only one contact point that might cause a wear concern. With the top part compressed the bottom section wouldn’t be seeing much friction.
 
My hat (or helmet) is off to those of you showing excellent creativity, ingenuity and determination coming up with the innovative "hybrid" hitches.

At some point though, probably before the creation of the "Olympic Hitch" with 5 rings, isn't it easier to just use a wrench or multicender?
 
My hat (or helmet) is off to those of you showing excellent creativity, ingenuity and determination coming up with the innovative "hybrid" hitches.

At some point though, probably before the creation of the "Olympic Hitch" with 5 rings, isn't it easier to just use a wrench or multicender?
so true, but then we would never come up with cool names like these! :)
 
5.5-6mm cords and small rings, the SMC rings generate a little more friction. I started to use a 8mm cord and bigger rings and realized it didn’t have to be that big, just strong enough for break strength requirements
 

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