chain bars

GB makes some good replacement bars. My favorites are the German-made Stihls with the large-radius noses.

You might classify the saw type and intended usage to get more focused suggestions.
 
I wonder what people may reckon about those "Woodsmanpro" bars, somewhere claimed to be the best. I have one that doesn't seem to wear any slower than an Oregon, and I have another, an older one, that seems very hard and has held up great.
 
I find Stihl Rollomatic ES bars excellent.

I also use Oregon Powermatch Plus, very good.

If going GB I would suggest the Titanium, I cant stand the base model GB bars, they're soft and wear very quick.

I dont think I've ever tried Woodsman, dont have them here.

On my 020 I have a Stihl lightweight bar, darn nice that baby, makes one handing so much better. /forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I concur on the quality of the Stihl bars. My Stihl 090 gear drive saw still has the original hard nosed bar that came with the saw, probably before I was born. It runs 1/2" chain and I use it for milling sometimes. The bar is a tough sucker.
 
I've got Stihl,Windsor,Cannon,McCulloch hard nose and sprocket tip,Origianl branded Homelite[Windsor],GB titanium,and not.The key to long bar life is oodles of oil.Spare the oil,ruin the bar,simple as falling off a log,so to speak.
 
If you want to damage the bar, cutting with a dull chain is probably number two after poor oil flow. I do chainsaw repairs for friends, and more often than not, when people bring in their saws, the bar groove and oil hole is full of crud.
 
If you lubricate a new bar and sprocket tip before putting it on the saw the sprocket tip will last longer as it's not running dry for ages until the oil gets into the rollers.

I don't like the lightweight bars for the 020 as I found that I use the strength of the bar for various things (well within its limits) such as levering out stubd rather than overcutting into live wood I don't want to cut. The lightweight flexible bars are useless for this.
Pete
 

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