Casanova's Case Studies

[JD3000]

No arguement there. Just making a case for smaller species with miltiple stems.

 

[ATH]

I'd be pretty tempted to pull one of those upright with and use a small twig or 3/8" bamboo to hold it up.

I think it can otherwise be trained to a single leader, but those are such small twigs now, I think they will re-train easily.

 

[DSMc]

Strong central leaders are nice but what will a tree do placed in a high-stress location, without the protection of the forest, like by itself in the open?
I understand this is not the situation for the OP, but the responses did not limit recommendations to just that scenario.

 

[ATH]

Just because the do grow that way, doesn't make the "ideal". Certainly stronger structure with a central leader.

A good central leader doesn't mean there aren't large wide-spreading long strong branches.

 

[DSMc]

Just because the do grow that way, doesn't make the "ideal"...

Very beautiful though and strong enough to last through centuries of whatever storm came by. Not an aberration either but instead the typical response of nearly every tree growing in the full exposer of an open-grown setting.
Obviously, as an arborist, I believe we have the ability to enhance tree structure. As someone that also has spent a great deal of time researching nature's complex systems, I am reminded of how often we regret ignoring those systems in favor of something we have decided is more "ideal".

 

[ATH]

I'll agree some of those big trees with "poor" structure are more attractive. I sould habe defined my "ideal" as lmited to structure, not the whole package as that changes with taste.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

After all the input on #2 I want to get opinions on what I am thinking now. I would like to train the leader on the left to be more vertical and keep the one on the right. I would like to reduce the one on the right at some point to allow the one on the left to take over as a central leader. Your thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

 

[ATH]

Looking at it again I do think I would use a small piece of a twig and masking tape to pull up that leader straight planning to remove that in about 2 years. I probably would not reduce the other side now as I think the tree will respond to having a well-defined central leader.

Curious to see what other people think about that.

 

[cerviarborist]

It might actually be better to just snip the whole top off and cultivate a leader out of whatever sprouts at the cut.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

It might actually be better to just snip the whole top off and cultivate a leader out of whatever sprouts at the cut.

Would this species respond well to that? Would the new growth be attached well or have a weakness where it sprouted? Could this be an option for the maple as well? The maple has good structure below the fork at the top. I would be more inclined to try it on the maple because I am very partial to my oaks.

 

[JD3000]

Looking at it again I do think I would use a small piece of a twig and masking tape to pull up that leader straight planning to remove that in about 2 years. I probably would not reduce the other side now as I think the tree will respond to having a well-defined central leader.

Curious to see what other people think about that.

I've done this but wonder if there's enough of a stub to tape it to.

It might actually be better to just snip the whole top off and cultivate a leader out of whatever sprouts at the cut.

The old nursery heading cut would probably work well here as the diameter of said cut is pretty small.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

I've done this but wonder if there's enough of a stub to tape it to.



The old nursery heading cut would probably work well here as the diameter of said cut is pretty small.

Would you do that just under the union or lower?

 

[JD3000]

I would either train the left one or cut under the union while looking for the semblence of a node to cut back to.

 

[JD3000]

Come across many a nursery stock pin oak that does this like your Shumard but rather than any ascending growth, the leaders go horizontaly, if not kind of downwards. I've taken to heading them and waiting to see what kind of growth emerges that I can work with.

 

[ATH]

I'd agree heading is not a bad option either. The new growth will initially have a weaker attachment, but will be fine in the long term. You will probably need to train one of those too, but they will be more flexible. I'd personally still pull up what you have if you can...but I think both ways will work out fine.

 

[DSMc]

I dislike working from pictures because I never get a good 360 deg. feel for the situation. But from what I see, I would take whichever one is growing and elongating the most, tie it up as straight as possible and call it good. It will not matter if it still has a crook in the trunk after you tie it as it will not be there a few years down the road.

 

[JD3000]

Same here, pics hard to work with often times.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

I will try and give a better 360 view of the next one.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

Here is the shumard with the left leader straightened and the right one reduced.

 

[DSMc]

That should work but you will need a longer/taller splint so you can chase the new top and keep it on track as it grows. At least for the remainder of this year.