carabiners ????

would like some suggestions on what carabiners to purchase for hooking up to a plate on a zipline. also, should i use a block or a pulley for a handline? and which one?
 
i often user screw carabiners for almost all of my rigging scenerios, they are cheaper but just as strong.

by plate do you mean rigging plate? if so what one do you have?

all plates come with a specific diameter hole drilled into them so that the carabiners cant crossload/dog bone, im pretty sure its a 19mm hole thats drilled, you would have a hard time finding a biner larger than 19mm thickness. are you zip lining logs or brush and how much weight are you looking to zip line? the weight makes all the difference
 
The one most specific choice in a rigging carabiner should be that it is constructed of steel. Then check the various load ratings available.

Mark
 
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would like some suggestions on what carabiners to purchase for hooking up to a plate on a zipline. also, should i use a block or a pulley for a handline? and which one?

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I like the Petzl M73 (Kador). A steel double auto locking with a 40kN rating. I have half a dozen or more and use them all the time.
 
I use steel carabiners for a lot of rigging the ones I use are rated to 50kn (250lbs x 50) it might be over kill though I like the fact that steel biners don’t get micro fractures like the aluminium ones I can drop this thing on a rock and still know its good, drop your aluminium biners on a rock ant there junk. Check out singing rocks steel biners there 50 kn and are double locking… just my 2 cents
 
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I use steel carabiners for a lot of rigging the ones I use are rated to 50kn (250lbs x 50) it might be over kill though I like the fact that steel biners don’t get micro fractures like the aluminium ones I can drop this thing on a rock and still know its good, drop your aluminium biners on a rock ant there junk. Check out singing rocks steel biners there 50 kn and are double locking… just my 2 cents

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I used to hear about micro-cracks, then I hear that it was a myth. I heard, again heard, that someone (Alaska Pacific University) took a bunch of found gear from the base of El Capitan, x-rayed them, and found that if they didn't appear damaged, they pull-tested just fine.

I don't know if this is true or not. Anyone have any verifiable evidence? Steel or Aluminum?

Also, I believe a Kn is equivalent to 225 pounds. Again, anyone have any verifiable info?
 
One of my friends is in charge of quality control at a major climbing gear manufacturer and he says the micro cracks thing is a myth. He takes carabiners from Smith Rock that have knotches worn in them from so many people lowering off of them and typically they test just fine as long as the gate stays closed.
 
This is worth reading if you're worried about microfractures. This myth is going to take years to put to rest.

http://tinyurl.com/6f2rlv

Steel for rigging. There are a few non-lockers in my bucket but they don't get used very much. As my rigging biners have been replaced they are all double locking. They do cost a bit more but they're so much safer. Why risk having something go pearshaped during rigging? We require climbers to use double locking, what happens if a biner lets loose during rigging?
 
I picked up a #2 camalot at the base of El Cap. Slapped it on the rack, and I'd use it all the time. Never once did I place or weight that thing with a clear conscience. For the $50 I saved, I must have burned thousands of calories in sheer nervous energy...

I never climbed anything on El Cap, by the way. But I did get to climb Serenity Crack...

For tree work, I use steel crabiners.
 
I am a rock climber as well and used to work in the industry all the reps say don't use the aluminium ones after a fall onto a hard surface because of micro fractures. I think on the booklet that comes with the beaners also says something about this i think? Not trying to start a war or anything i will however use cams and nuts i find..... free gear!

Happy Climbing..
 

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