Canopy Achor, Jam Knot on Pinto

Yup. What he said

Tony

Okay, thanks for clarifying. If I'm not mistaken, that system is an outlier relative to the rule that gear reduces strength 30%, probably because it doesn't utilize a jam knot. I would expect that to test similarly to the same configuration with a delta link, depending on where the break occurred. Further, I would expect that conopy anchor to perform similarly with an alpine butterfly, if maybe slightly weaker.

Your mention of building more and more robust climbing systems is directly in line with a recent workshop presentation by Mark Bridge.

I believe it to be more common for climbers to have accidents as a result of over-utilizing weak structures in the tree than a weak climbing system. But all of your points are valid and well worth considering.
 

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