Biners and friction savers

D

Diggity

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I was wondering who out there uses carabiners in their friction saver setup. I’ve come to really like using a DMM revolver Ron one side and a carabiner attaches to a DMM pinto on the other side. Thoughts? For SRT you can jam the pinto and get to work. What else are you guys doing for friction Savers?
 
Diggity said:
I was wondering who out there uses carabiners in their friction saver setup. I’ve come to really like using a DMM revolver Ron one side and a carabiner attaches to a DMM pinto on the other side. Thoughts? For SRT you can jam the pinto and get to work. What else are you guys doing for friction Savers?
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A.R.T. revolver or petzl ball lock
 
I used to use an omni block and a carabiner on a piece of webbing, which was great. Midline attachable, retrieved with a knot, and everything was captured in one piece so there was nothing to drop. I noticed it needed a bit of a bigger crotch to retrieve reliably from, not adjustable (not really an issue most of the time) and I had to retire a carabiner due to excessive wear, and knot blocking was a no go

I've since switched a fimblsaver and asides from the lack of midline attachability (fixable with biners) I'm really digging that instead.
 
Diggity said:
I was wondering who out there uses carabiners in their friction saver setup. I’ve come to really like using a DMM revolver Ron one side and a carabiner attaches to a DMM pinto on the other side. Thoughts? For SRT you can jam the pinto and get to work. What else are you guys doing for friction Savers?
Click to expand...
I use the same
 
I really don't use friction savers anymore (all srt now) but I've still got a home spliced old fart u-saver knocking around somewhere. Come to think of it, I really ought to disassemble that thing for the pinto.
 
Diggity said:
...can you still retrieve if you use a natural redirect on way down?
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There will be more friction, is all. I don't use a lot of redirects, but I've pulled two out and it felt a little bit harder than when there aren't any. When you pull on the retrieval line, it pulls the ring down off the sling, over the connecting hardware, and on down the rope... if the rope goes all over, it really doesn't matter, it will still all come down. You do have to untie any knots, stopper knots, etc. or they can snag in a crotch along the way.
 
Bob Bob said:
...small ring...
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It's a 5/16" stainless steel bow shackle... but you can use whatever you want to connect the climb line to the anchor. All my climb lines have either a D shackle or bow shackle on the spliced end, so I just use them on the anchors, too, and a 5/16" SS QuickLink to connect them to each other. The only requirement is that whatever you use, it MUST be able to pass through the ring. If you use a large enough ring, you can even use carabiners for the connection.


full
 
Revolver/ Pinto on Snake Tail for MACA (midline attachable crown anchor, converts from base tie without untying), 34mm and 40mm DMM ring FS for twin lining (pass a bite through both and jam the smaller with a Figure 8 on a bight and drop an accessory line from it for retrieval) and FimblClimb when I can isolate. All SRS, by the way, moving rope is dead.
 
Worthaug said:
Revolver/ Pinto on Snake Tail for MACA (midline attachable crown anchor, converts from base tie without untying), 34mm and 40mm DMM ring FS for twin lining (pass a bite through both and jam the smaller with a Figure 8 on a bight and drop an accessory line from it for retrieval) and FimblClimb when I can isolate. All SRS, by the way, moving rope is dead.
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Just a couple of the worlds best climbers...Scott Forrest, James Killpatrick Champions on moving rope. I don't believe it is dead. Just sayin
 
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